Toyota Land Cruiser

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Comments

  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    Cliffy1 & edsel4u, many thanks for the advice. Since my max towing weight should only be 2500 lbs. I think I'm going to try the FZJ80 which I will also use off-road. I appreciate you both taking the time to reply.

    Sean
  • kflanarykflanary Member Posts: 15
    1) What is everyone using for a cargo cover in the back? I see no option to order one. Is there anything you can purchase aftermarket?

    2) Gas Mileage. I have seen several posts, but nothing real consistent. What are you getting on the highway and the city?

    Thanks
  • njpaguynjpaguy Member Posts: 55
    In the rest of the world, a factory cargo cover is available. Some US dealers can/will order it for you. But none of them will take it back if you don't like it. Details about fit and installation are virtually non-existant. I believe the 3rd row jump seat must be removed for the cover to be used. Price quoted averages around $500.

    As for fuel mileage...if you're a lead foot, 12-14 MPG is possible, maybe less. But average driving (with an occasional fast pullout into traffic) you can average 15-16 MPG combination city/highway. On a recent trip from NJ to Cape Cod, 3 adults, 2 kids, a back filled with luggage and stuff, averaging 68-72 MPH, fuel economy was 17.2 MPG!!!
  • kflanarykflanary Member Posts: 15
    Why does the Sequoia use regular gas and the LC use premium when they share the same engine? Can you use regular in the LC?
  • a1gregga1gregg Member Posts: 9
    The owner's manual for my 2002 states that you can use regular or higher.

    You might get slightly better mileage with higher octane ratings, but you need to do the arithmetic to see if it is worth the added cost.
  • ravickravick Member Posts: 18
    a1gregg, My 2000 LC has a sticker on the inside of the fuel lid which calls for primium only. Do you have a similar sticker on your 2002 LC? If you have used regular consistantly, have you experienced any knocking?
  • a1gregga1gregg Member Posts: 9
    I did not notice a sticker inside of the fuel lid, but I will look when i get a chance. LC is currently in storage and I will not see it for another month and a half. I have used several grades of fuel and have not noticed a problem with any of them. No knocking whatsoever. What I have not done is the analysis to see if using the premium grades is worth the $$$.What does your user's guide say?
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    Higher compression engines run better on higher octane because more of the fuel explodes in the combustion chamber. My mechanic, who could care less about what gas is used, said that in the long run it was better to spend the extra couple-hundred bucks annually.
  • ravickravick Member Posts: 18
    The 2000 LC User's manual calls for unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of at least 91 (ie supreme). However, it does say that it is OK to temporarily use regular unleaded gasoline(min. octane rating of 87) if supreme is unavailable.
  • philg87philg87 Member Posts: 74
    What is the cut off for miles allowed for it to be considered a demo or used saw one with 7K miles on it.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    It depends on the state. Virginia considers it new if a title has never been written, regardless of the miles. MD has a limit of 5K miles. Most banks go by the titling aspect.
  • philg87philg87 Member Posts: 74
    Thanks cliffy this one is in Ohio.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    Can't help you with that one. If you don't trust the answer your dealer gives you, call another and ask a manager.
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    I have a '99 LC and have removed a couple of oem parts that I would like to sell. These items are collecting dust in my barn and I know someone out there in TLC land can use them. I have tried ebay and have had no luck. Can anyone recommend a place I could sell these items? Not looking to make money a ton of money, just looking to past these on to someone who might want them.

    Thanks,

    Andrew
    roane3@hotmail.com
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    I have a '99 LC with 56k miles and it has an exhaust rattle. Has anyone had this problem and what does it cost to fix it?

    Thanks,

    Andrew
    Raleigh, NC
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    Should the TSB for the heat sheild rattle be covered under a Toyota certified warranty? The dealer told me that cars out of the 3yr/36,000 mile regular warranty had to pay for TSBs.

    Thanks,

    Andrew
    Raleigh, NC
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    I have one word for you... ebay.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    He tried eBay (maybe need to run it again?). Town Hall isn't set up for ads, and TLC parts may be too esoteric for the local penny saver ad sheets. Maybe try rec.autos.4x4 on Usenet....

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • gunnerisacgunnerisac Member Posts: 8
    have a 99 --had same problem. Dealership replaced, but it was under warranty.

    Paul
  • mkwamemkwame Member Posts: 21
    Can someone enlighten me with this question? Is the Toyota Type T-IV ATF good for the 1998- 2002 Lexus LX470 and Toyota Land Cruisers? The manual for the these trucks suggests Dextron III. My confusion stems from my old 1996 LS400 operator's manual which recommends the use of Dextron III but everyone on the LS400 forum including the dealer highly recommended the Type T-4 tranny fluid for smooth shifting.

    Thanks for your help on this in advance.
  • mkwamemkwame Member Posts: 21
    Andrew, I have a 99 TLC what do you have for sale?

    mkwame@yahoo.com
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    This isn't the place to buy and sell - you might want to take this into private email.

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    Who's got a high mileage 100 Series and what repairs/problems have you encountered (if any) as the mileage goes 6-digits plus?
  • semanticssemantics Member Posts: 51
    Demo Toyotas can (and often) have anywhere from 10 miles to 12,000 miles on them. Just check the registration or DMV printout. The car should have been registered in the name of the dealership to be a true DEMO.
  • nrossinrossi Member Posts: 47
    hose clamps.
  • philg87philg87 Member Posts: 74
    Thanks semantics
  • 98cruiser98cruiser Member Posts: 6
    My dealer told me the same thing - fixing heatshield only covered under 3/36 warranty. Have service rep print out - TSB EG005-00 JUN 00 Exhaust - Rattle Noise. You can look at parts list (clamps and little rubber spacers) and decide whether to do yourself, or not.
  • drcaldrcal Member Posts: 10
    Can someone tell me what grade fuel is required for the current generation landcruiser? Do they all require premium grade? Thanks.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #1626
    The usual time frame that it takes to get to 6 digit mileage @ 15k a yr would be 6.7 years. While I have had 6 digit mileage, (250k app ) this was on a 1987 TLC, FJ60 series. So as you can see, the series as a tendency to change. This particular model before it was sold had app $2,200. in unscheduled maintenance.

    #1631

    The recommended fuel is the premium fuel or 91/92 octane. The truth is that since the engine is computer controlled, it will run on 87 octane, obviously with correspondingly almost imperceivable loss of power and performance.
  • tedplanotedplano Member Posts: 31
  • tedplanotedplano Member Posts: 31
    I have a 2001 TLC and do mostly city driving. The manual says 7500 mile intervals for oil changes. Is that sufficient or should it be done sooner? The dealer says 5000 mile intervals. Are they just trying to make a buck sooner?
  • hicairahicaira Member Posts: 276
    Do the 5k, especially if you are running dino oil (with all those city miles). Maybe with synth you could go 7500, but I'd get an oil analysis once in a while just to be sure. I'd be more concerned about the filter than the oil at that point anyway.

    If you plan on owning this car for awhile, more frequent oil changes are the best long-term powertrain warranty money can buy, IMO.

    Dealer charges me $60 for an oil change with Mobil 1. Not bad for 8 quarts, plus they lube the diffs and top off other fluids. Do it every 5k. Sleep well.

    HiC
  • md2002md2002 Member Posts: 142
    If you spend the money on maintenance you won't have to pay in the end when something fails. It can be cheap insurance.
  • rayskirayski Member Posts: 1
    I am interested in purchasing a 94 tlc w/ 100k miles in excellent overall condition.It has been regularly dealer maintained.This lc is loaded minus leather,power seats, and tutone paint.Asking price is $14k.What can I expect for reliabity,longevity? Will this start to rust out soon? Is it a great rig long term? What would a fair price be? Any input would be greatly appreciated? thanks Rayski
  • md2002md2002 Member Posts: 142
    I believe it has the Six cylinder and they were prone to some oil leaks if I recall correctly. I would cruise back over this topic a ways back and you will find some similar questions and comments.
  • h3ybfpfh3ybfpf Member Posts: 16
    I posted this question before but got no answers.

    Can someone recommend a good way of removing rust spots/streaks around the front and read wheels' "brake covers" (I hope I've described this part correctly).

    I drive 2000LC and live in Midwest. Needless to say, there is a lot of salt on the road during winter. I noticed a lot of 98-01 LC's have these surface rust spots near the callipers on the "round part" that is made of what looks to be an aluminum and looks like it can be open with a key. It probably stores an ABS or VSC mechanism inside. Please note: The callipers do not have rust spots on them.

    Anyhow, these rust spots look really bad and I was wondering if there is a way to remove them, preferably without taking the wheels off. Perhaps there is a chemical solution someone is aware of. I realize, one has to be careful not to damage alloy wheels.
  • bwrsrobwrsro Member Posts: 3
    The clock on my 1998 TLC continuously picks up time. Typically 2-3 minutes per month. It's actually entertaining as it is about the only fault with the vehicle. Does anyone else share this problem? Is there a fix?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #1637

    I have a 94 TLC, (original owner)absolutely no rust. (CA)Tire changes @85k. Brake changes at 45k, oil change intervals 15k with synthetic mobil one since new. NO unschedule repair problems to date.
  • ljflxljflx Member Posts: 4,690
    Runs fast in the LX470 also. It's also the only fault of that truck. Great automotive breed but needs some help from Rolex or Concord on time.
  • ironside7ironside7 Member Posts: 38
    I have a 98 TLC and need to install a tether anchor for my kid's car seat. I purchased the part from my Toyota dealer, which merely comprises a bolt (without a nut) with a metal hoop attached to the top. It looks as if it should screw into a seatbelt anchor on the floor, but I can't find any unused bolt holes. Any suggestions on installing this part would be much appreciated.
  • tnhhudsontnhhudson Member Posts: 18
    I just towed home my "new" 75 FJ40. Any recommendations for web sites or forums that will facilitate me driving and not towing?!?!...
    thanks
  • lpc68lpc68 Member Posts: 45
    has anyone replaced the above factory speakers in a 91 LC? i'm looking for a pair but all are too deep because the window frame is right in back of the magnet. the oem speakers have an inverted magnet which creates a very low profile but i cant seem to find any speakers that will fit without any custom fitting. thanks in advance for any info
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    The Land Cruiser Mailing List.

    Pirate 4x4.
  • tnhhudsontnhhudson Member Posts: 18
    on the carb there are 2 fuel lines- one comes from the pump the other straight from the fuel tank. the one that comes from the tank has a "banjo" type fitting. the bolt that connects this fitting to the carb is missing. i assume this bolt is a one of a kind. where can i find one or could one be fabricated?
    what year did they go to discs up front, and when did they get rid of the parking brake off the transfer case?
    thanks for th input ref pirate 4x4
  • olizerolizer Member Posts: 38
    Try the following sites:

    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/80scool/ or


    http://www.crusherworld.com/ or


    http://www.tlca.org/ or


    http://www.sleeoffroad.com/

  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    You should be able to get the bolt from Specter Offroad (www.sor.com).

    Discs in '76, and parking brake went to rear axle in '80/'81 with the introduction of the fj60 wagon. Easy to do the mini disc brake conversion and get larger birfields to boot. Search on pirate forum, and check out Brian Swearingen's site (www.ih8mud.com).
  • djlottdjlott Member Posts: 3
    I haven't been here in a while but I though I'd re post some questions I posted a few months back. (I did my homework and scrolled through 1000 previous messages in hopes to find something)

    For my 2001LC, my questions are:
    1. I'm in Northern CAL and would like a shop name or someone who can professionally bypass the DVD safety features. Any news?
    2. How do you get the NAV DVD to eject out of the under-passenger seat player? I figured that the dealer would charge me a mint for the update and wanted to scour the Internet for an update myself. Problem is that I can't find an eject button.

    This is a great site and has provided me with a ton of valuable information in the past; including the boomy BASS fix for my stereo.

    Thanks everyone
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    I kind of doubt a shop will bypass the "safety" feature on the DVD player as it puts them in a bad spot should you wreck the rig while driving with the DVD player engaged.
  • bhuppertbhuppert Member Posts: 9
    The right front of my 98 TLC squeaks whenever I go over a bump or dip in the road. I am reluctant to take it to the dealer but wondered if anyone else had encountered this and if there is a home remedy? It has 47k on it and I am very pleased with it thus far.
  • tnhhudsontnhhudson Member Posts: 18
    two questions today
    1. I bought the beast not running, now the motor will crank but no spark. my plan is to go thru the standard points, cap, rotor.... but my concern is the wiring. it appears that thru the years my beast has been "modified" from the original configuration. i've pieced it together best i can with a haynes manual but to no avail yet. there is also what appears to be a series of parts above the coil, i'm assuming voltage regulator and something else. any ideas on wading thru this mess to get spark? are there certain things that i should look for or a way to simplify it? the thing (for lack of a better term) above the coil is original and does not look good, what is the best option for replacement, toyota or aftermarket?
    2. i had to drain the fuel tank and system, the previous owner had replaced fuel line with an air hose (a technique maybe, but i'll stick to fuel hose) does the pump need to be primed or should it draw from the tank?
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