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We are of course frustrated that our brand new car has a problem that seems to be developing into a un-resolvable issue. (we had the toyota performance debate when we were looking for our car back in March - Sequoia vs. Suburban.) We opted for the space and HOPED we would not end up with a service needy vehicle.
Anyone heard of this sort of noise/problem? (We have done a little searching on this board...locking differential msg. 1131 or msg 1235 - but how do we email these people? can you tell we are newbies on this board? :-)
Also...this is now our second full day of trying to get this resolved...is this to be expected? What are our rights regarding something like this?
What thoughts, ideas or other boards could we look to find what might be related to this? Your help and perspective is appreciated.
Loved our Burb but are now starting to wonder....
As far as getting it repaired correctly, you can go to ANY Chevy dealer!! You are not stuck with the shop you bought the unit from. If they can't get the job done go elsewhere. Call 1-800-chev-usa, or use on-star if you have it and ask for the number 1 rated service dept in your area, they do keep records on that stuff, and are more than happy to give you the info.
I do check mine at each oil change, & the problem has not returned. Perhaps you or your dealer can check for this condition, just in case you have a similar situation. If a problem ocurrs on (1) vehicle, it is likely to ocurr on some others as well. It is worth checking out, seeing as how you are hearing it on left turns only, as mine did. Mine became evident at 7,500 miles, & you've got 12,000. Good luck, & keep us posted as to what you find. Whatever you find will likely help someone else as well. Dave
Also I checked the sheet metal very carefully & found no sign of damage. I also got the prep man on the side & asked him if the truck cam in with any damage, he said absolutely not. He seems honest
enough, I tend to believe him.
It may be that I am clueless (a very real possibility these days), but I still can't find the darn things. I have second row bucket seats, could this be the problem? I am hopeful that it is just my current dazed and confused state and not the fact that I have the bucket seat option. Any additional info would be appreciated. Thanks.
I don't know where you are getting your parts, but Brassington GM located somewhere in FL advertizes to sell all GM OEM parts at 15% over their cost. They were much more competitive than other places I looked, even used parts from a salvage yard. I don't recall teh web address, but you should be able to find them with a search.
Yep the silverados are chrome. Took mine off and painted them blue
They are held in by 2 clips and 3m double sided tape.
Tape a butter knie slowly around the whole section and using a sawing motion to cut the tape. After going all around (slowly took me 10-15 mins a mirror to get em off). Then pop it off. To reinstall add tape and pop back on very simple
http://www.gmotors.com/
Is this the beginning of a nightmare car - endless problem, that cannot be resolved that will just get worse? We only have 12K miles on it...our brand new beautiful car looks not so great now (sorry if you are looking to buy one).
So...how do we get more information as to our options (yes, we have checked the lemon law) - who will help us and what does it take to get out of a car situation like this? It can't be fixed! Unbelieveable that we spent 40K for something like that.
Any advice or experience with this would be helpful. Please post! Thank you.
I know many pre 2001 (truck and suv) owners had their steering shafts replaced one sympton was a clunking when turning left.
However the tsb changed to lube the steering shaft. I had a new one put in about a yr ago in my silverado. Noise and feel was like night and day.
Ask them (dealer) if it could be the steering shaft
Anyone else out there have a rattling fuel line? I had my truck in 3x before I met someone else who had solved the same problem with their '02.
BTW, has anyone had a transmission failure on there '02? I drove mine 12 miles before 3rd & 4th gear disintegrated. Since the new tranny I've had slippage, rattles and something that sounds like a fan cycling on & off.
I've had the thing for 85 days and it's been in the shop for 11. I live in Boston and if my truck is in the shop for 3 more days I can apply for the lemon law. Believe it or not I love the truck. Just wish more of the parts were made in the US rather than Mexico.
I will take it back to the dealer and see what they say.
Should I even care about the difference?
Thanks
As for which one you have, it could be either. It will be listed on the window sticker as an option if you have the 4.10. If it is not listed as an option, you will find it in the standard equipment if it is the 3.73
If you don't still have the window sticker, it is also contained as a code in the VIN number, but I don't know which character or which code is which. Maybe someone else here does.
Sincerely thanks for the education, it was one thing that was annoying as I could not find anything to help me figure it out.
Would appreciate any feedback on these issue. Thanks
Jaw2000, No I'm not a teacher, but on the subject of gear ratios, I know quite a bit because I used to race a stock car at a local oval track. If you want to get real detailed, you can start looking a tire circumferences and how that affects the power available at the ground and maximizing the torque of the engine. But that goes way beyond what is needed for everyday driving.
I would appreciate any comments or suggestions before I make my final decision?
Any problems with the "Firestone Wilderness AT "tires that come standard on this vehicle?
Thanks
Will you be towing a heavy load or using it just
for general driving? Is it going to be your spouses vehicle or your commute vehicle? How are you planing on using your truck & what do you expect from it.
I'm sure all here will be glad to offer any assistance we can. I just took delivery of my
2500 on the 27th & received a lot of help right
here to that influenced my decision. Well write
back soon.
I will be purchasing the 1500, with 4 wheel drive.
I will not be doing any towing. I plan to drive the vehicle myself, basically every day for work and general purposes. Virtually all driving will be done on city and highway paved roads.
Also plan to take it on vacations.
I have two main reasons for buying this vehicle.
I wanted a larger vehicle to carry 5 or more.
Also, I have a significant back problem that prevents me from driving most vehicles. (I recently had to return a 2002 Buick LeSabre because of this.)
I tried many vehicles and I find the power lumbar and general support of the seats in the Yukon to be very good. I tried the seats of minivans made by all manufactures domestic and imported and found them to be inadequate as far as my back is concerned.
As I mentioned before I am considering the Yukon XL with the SLT trim level. I do not want the second row bucket seats as I prefer the extra seating offered by the 3- passenger folding seat that comes standard with the vehicle. I do not want the Denali version as it increases the price about $7 to $8 thousand in Canada and the bigger engine on the Denali uses significantly more gas.
Thanks again!
That is your only wise and safe bet -- and if you wish you can test them both.
Feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Mike
I had 24,000 miles on my Yukon when I traded it for the Sub Z71 and I never had it in for one repair. However, I am having a few tranny oddities with the new Sub that I might have the dealer check out. One is that the transmission seems to act differently than the Yukon tranny. When I park on an incline, even a slight incline (such as my driveway), after I put the vehicle in park and take my foot off the brake the vehicle will roll backwards. Sometimes a couple inches, sometimes as much as 5 or 6 inches, sometimes not at all. Secondly, sometimes I think I feel slippage in the transmission when I take off. Again, I never noticed these things in the Yukon which had the same rear end and tranny.
I have done a few modifications to the new Sub. I added a Go Rhino Sumatra 3000 brush guard with KC Slimlites to the front and Westin tail light protectors in the back. Also I bypassed the factory stereo with the wiring kit described at the Delphi site and the results are WAY better than the stock sound. I am kicking myself for never doing it in my old Yukon.
I would still like to raise the the front end a couple of inches to level the vehicle out a little but I am hesitant to screw around with the torsion bars because I am not sure what the repurcussions (if any) will be. I know somebody makes a torsion bar kit that will get you about 2". Has anyone installed this? Adjusting the stock bars will get you about an inch is what I hear. I would also like to install some type of reverse lights. Optimally in the round cut-outs of the cargo rack or under/near the receiver.
Intersted in seeing what others have done to their Subs/XLs.
The only thing I have done to my wife's '01 K2500HD Sub is to back into a parked car. One night, a visitor to the across the street neighbor parked on the street at my driveway. I backed into the car and bent the left bumper hard enough to dent the left quarter panel with the bumper. New bumper is $475 from GM. GMpartsdirect is $375 (all with out pads, etc). Junkyard bumper complete (pads, lights, etc) from a '00 GMC truck was $150. Three person job to install, 2 to hold while installing bolts.
Now for the backup sensor installation..Is this closing the barn door after the cow....?
This is not the kind of information that you seek!!!!
Replaced the Deathstones with Michelin LTX M/S 265-70x16 and installed Cord lighted running boards to replace the narrow factory boards
On my last Yukon I replaced the Firestone's with 17" wheels and Michelins off of the Denali. Since you have a 2500 series you don't have that luxury because I believe you have a different bolt pattern.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
31K only one problem - left rear shock blew, dealer replaced. And leather drivers seatback wearing thin up near shoulder.
The changer is a unit made specific to work in GM cars/trucks. The changer has Rockford Fosgate on the door, but is actually made by the same company that makes them for GM. It runs through the radio controls w/o any problems with on-star or the tape deck, everything works in great harmony, no pun intended. Best of all you don't have that extra control hanging out on the dash, and the rear audio controls can run the changer it the main stereo is not using it. I installed it myself with only one problem, running the harness up to the rear of the radio head unit. I ended up using a coat hanger to fish the harness up to the rear of the radio.
The kit comes with the changer and interface cable, you will also need the cable to go from the radio to the changer, and the "Y" connector that will go into the back of the radio. I was told you can hook the "Y" to the tape deck also, if you don't want to pull the dash all apart.
http://www.mnrelectronics.com
Changer P/N 16231721
Harness P/N 12344015
"Y" adapt. call for info
I have the YXL and the bench flips and folds forward with a little stand thing to hold it up when you need to put something in the back, it comes out really easy and one person can do the job w/o incident.
The Yukon/Tahoe you can remove one or the other or both 3rd row seats, the problem I see in the Yukon/Tahoe is that the 3rs row is kid only territory. In the YXL I can have 2 adults and a child in the 3rd row no problems, I can't see that happening in the Tahoe/Yukon.