If I can cut to the quick about 5w20 conventional oil use with the OLM. Stay with it if any of the technical issues induce "GLAZE OVER" or the "deer in the headlights" response. :shades: Just the very act of topping (.8 qt) will let you go to an easy 8,000 miles.
Given what you have posted,
..."simply because the oil life is so long per the monitor that there's no point switching to synthetic. My current batch of oil is 6 months and 4K miles old, and the monitor is only at 50%. That's good enough for me, although it has burned about 0.8 qt of oil. "...
You would have to burn brain cells on this issue when it is obvious that you would rather use in other places. Besides 5w20 conventional is a VERY ROBUST oil!!! Or let me put it more to the point. Oils that claim meeting the 5w20 Ford/Honda standards meet very high standards. I would have no hesitation in running 5w20 conventional oil 10,000 miles in a 2004 Honda Civic! As a point of departure, what the OLM is telling you is you are not driving your vehicle as gently as YOU perceive. Please understand I mean NO offense, but am merely reading the data you presented. So in terms of your data, "GENTLE" would indicate 5,000 miles at 40-50%.
In so far as burning .8 qt or 25.6 oz in 4,000 miles, that is perfectly in keeping with the normal stuff the dealer will tell you ie 1 qt in 1000-1500 miles is NORMAL.
BUT.... In the 2004 Honda Civic I run 0w20 Mobil One, 20,000 mile OCI's At most in 20,000 miles, I consume to the middle of the dipstick. Now I can not get to the precise oz as Honda does not seem to go by 1 quart low between min and max, but I know for sure half on the Honda Civic dipstick is less than 1/2 quart I am guessing 1/4 or 8 oz. Or this is what I SWAG that I add since I like to keep it AT MAX on the dipstick. So as a practical matter since it does fall between min and max I really do not need to top until the oil change at 20,000 miles interval.
Again the perception issue. My take is moderate to aggressive flogging, every so often is a good thing! This can mean spirited acceleration (at different speeds, not usually from a standstill) to 75% of red line; to every so often (after an hour of operation) acceleration TO the redline.
The oil level went from full to just above the low mark. So I'm guessing ~0.8 qt was burned. I rarely rev the engine ablove 3k RPM. Maybe the car would've been more properly broken-in with some occasional flogging, which could've caused oil burning?
Well I am guessing, but since it is an 06 Accord, you are probably still in break in and with low miles. If so that would indicate that with a few more miles mpg would tend to stabilize.
the oil jug. I actually only added ~0.6 qt to bring the oil to full level, and not the previously posted 0.8 qt. I can live with that.
blufz1:
Thanks. I'm not worried about voiding the warranty, or about the car. I actually trust myself more when it comes to oil changes. But I AM considering buying Honda's OEM oil filters from now on, as opposed to using aftermarket ones.
To the best of my remembrance and as I recall from another Edmunds discussion a few years ago, Honda got their filters made and labeled by Fram. Around that same time, there was a lot of negativity over the use of Fram filters. I am NOT afraid of Fram filters myself, but find that currently I am buying Motorcraft filters from Walmart and Purolators when they are on sale at any of the discount car parts houses. Hey! A deal is a deal!
I've been using Fram ToughGuard for years. The reason why I'm wanting to go back to OEM filters is I find it increasingly confusing to choose aftermarket filters. Also, per some of the online unscientific analysis of various filters, essentially all have one serious shortcoming or another. I figure if Honda is brave enough to put a particular filter on their cars and is confident that it'll work for at least as long as the oil life minder says so, then why should I have any problem using the same filter, right?
First and formost oil filters are designed as an overflow valve. So by definition, they should/can/will NOT be tight enough to inhibit/impede CRITICAL oil flow, hence triggering them to... OVERFLOW mode! Anyone looking to dial down the lower sized mircrons even more should look to BY-PASS oil filtration add on systems. Since they are designed to filter 10% or less of the new sump volume, they do have the lower micron (i.e., SLOWER filtration) scavenging effect/affect.
I also agree with the last two posts. I would have no issues using a FRAM. Note worthy, the Civic technical data indicates an every other OCI FILTER change. For my Civic that is 20,000 miles! Indeed I have run a past (since sold) Toyota Landcruiser app 250,000 miles on 17/18 PH8A FRAMS. I guess I am a belt and suspenders kind of guy! As one post correctly points out, Fram DOES provide OEM oil filters (to Honda specifications of course) It is also getting increasingly hard to separate "the wheat from the chaff" when it comes to oil filters. Right now to cut to the chase for spin on oil filters, I use the WalMart equivalent sized filters as it is made under the SuperTech brand for WalMart by Champion Labs http://www.champlabs.com/ (one of the better vendors) It does not hurt that they have been cheaper than Fram's for a long long time. Some would argue Champion Labs is a better vendor than FRAM (Fram is owned by Allied Signal, bought by Honeywell) http://www.honeywell.com/en/carcare/index.jsp
Off topic, I have been running "cartridge type" (Mann's if anyone is interested) oil filters on a VW Jetta TDI. In app 100,000 miles, it appears to be a lot easier to deal with than any spin on I have ever used and I have been using them for over 50 years. Basically the oem builds only to 4 of typically 11 component pieces for a spin on filter. Therefore the resultant filter saves money!! So in theory all that savings (in theory of course) can go into "BETTER" quality media. One just R/R's the filter media only and literally spins on and off the plastic cap. The media has a design life of 30,000 miles. I do a 25,000 mile OCI so I don't even change it much anymore. Life is good!
For the cars in paragraph order Mobil's: 1. 0w20,5w20 2. 5w30 3. 5w40, aka Delvac One 5w40.
The real HOT deal in add on, so called BY PASS oil filtering is the Amsoil EA model line!! One word: PRICEY !!!!!! 17-25 bux per filter! This does not count app $200-300 for (bypass) equipment and installation. It really filters down to small microns!!!! All indications by way of UOA's indicate it literally almost SCRUB's the oil. Now what this means about equipment longevity in the real world from a statistical analysis point of view remains to be seen.
Still I understand the numbers to be almost unbelieveable!! One can of course project, but how the projection turns in to reality is/can be a WAY different story. However if the projections are true, for me; I would be able to go from a 25,000 mile OCI to a CONSERVATIVE 50,000 mile OCI!!!??? 60-75,000 miles OCI would not be out of the question!!! WOW! Noteworthy, since it filters out down to very very fine microns, it actually cleans up new out of the bottle from the factory oil!!!!!!!!!! This alone is truly WEIRD.
Since the Amsoil EA product line is still very new, real world longitudinal UOA's still are being slowly collected and featured in www.bobsistheoilguy.com.
The problem with ultra long OCIs using a bypass filter is that the TBN is bumping on zero long before the oil starts looking dirty. No thanks, I'll stick with my 10,000 mile OCIs and conventional filters.
For sure that is the thing that will require UOA's. Running close to zero TBN makes no sense in the scheme of things. For me right now it remains an item of curiosity. However there was a time in my life if someone told me I would run 10,000 mile OCI's, I would not have believed it. VW specification 507.00 oil is now considered a so called long life and has a 30,000 miles upper life expectancy.
Yes for the TDI application, I understand it is app 1 quart more. The system adds slightly more. So this is app plus 1qt/4.5 qts= 22% greater system capacity. Here is a link to the thread
Thanks,guys. Mobil 1 filter for my 02 V6 Accord. Mobil claims 9 oz. Honda oem 5 oz. per the Honda parts guy who filled 1 up with oil. Seems the diff is actually maybe 2-3 oz. Guess more is better. No apparent difference on my temp gauge. Just my .02.
I am glad you have an oil temperature gauge. It is always interesting to see a coolant gauge absolutely dead level and see the actual oil temperatures fluctuate. I wish more cars had it, but I am sure I am in the minority that wants these extra gauges and more importantly will pay for it.
Your coolant temperature isn't exactly dead level, it's just that all OBD-II slaved gauges (from all manufacturers) are nothing more than glorified idiot lights. As long as your coolant stays within a certain "normal" range, your gauge will not move at all. :P
Think I mis spoke. I was referring to the oem temp gauge. I assumed it was oil temp but I think shipo is right. It's just a coolant gauge. It never seems to rise to even the halfway point. Wish we actual #'s so we could really see changes no matter how small. Thanks,again,guys.
For sure, the Corvette Z06 has a (numbered-ticks) analog display coolant gauge on the gauge cluster (lower left). You can also access a digital coolant EXACT numerical display. Same is true for oil temperature, etc, etc,. I normally operate the vehicle with the (numerical)oil temperature displayed.
Most other cars have your mentioned "idiot" gauge display, which was what I was thinking of before your post, which led to the dead level comment.
No, not at all in either. Overall I notice changes in temperatures where you would not think it would rise fall and/or stay the same. But both have been in the range of operating temperatures. Since Mobil One 5w30 has been used since factory fill, I haven't even been able to note the difference between conventional 5w30 and synthetic. The most dramatic rise was going up to Dante's Inferno (a high overlook) from -284 feet below sea level (Badwater), Death Valley, CA (is there any other time?... summer, of course. It was 104 degrees ambient with the oil temperature hitting (as I remember, 234 degrees or was that 224 degrees)
Thanks! Quite a swing in temps. We have had a cool summer in 07 but 06 was like 80 days over 100. Glad I take it especially easy in the heat. Thanks,again.
My Scirocco had an oil temp gauge standard. It was very useful. Even though the water temp gauge was at its normal position in 5 minutes of driving (or less) the oil temp took at least 15 minutes to stabalize. Really lets you know when the engine is actually warm as opposed to just the water.
In the winter it would stabalize at 89 degrees C and on a hot day in the summer it would be about 110 degrees C.
D,thanks. I read that the internal components can get up to several thousand degrees. Call me crazy, but when I get home from the lake in really hot weather. I park in the driveway in the shade outside my garage and pop the hood open to dissipate the extreme heat. I 've noticed the car cools off much faster.
I recently had a new water pump installed in a 3.5 liter 1996 Chrysler V6. I got worried about the fact that the temp curve had suddenly moved up several degrees on the gauge compared to pre-replacement levels. I recalled having read some years prior that this engine could develop an air bubble in the thermostat housing as a result of draining the coolant. When the factory-standard thermostat bleeder "zirc" was utilized as intended to remove the air, the temp curve retreated to what it had been before the pump replacement. This air lock effect may affect many other engines out there. Just file this tip away... :shades:
This air lock effect may affect many other engines out there. Just file this tip away...
I just had an air bubble in the cooling system of my Jeep 4.0; it "fixed" itself in a couple of days. Many BMW systems can be a real bear to bleed. Some have two or more bleeder screws.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Yes, I fully agree, older VW's being the Jetta 3 all had oil temp indicators. Sad no know you do not find them in newer vehicles. An engine is considered cold until oil temp has reached 90 degrees C.
As it relates to (synthetic or conventional for that matter) oil usage, it is always advisable to operate your vehicle (whether you can see a gauge or not) at the temperature points where byproducts of the the conbustion system can "boil" off.
Question. How long in hours does it take for a start to be considered a cold start after your first trip of the day? I would guess the important thing is oil remains "up" in the engine.
"Question. How long in hours does it take for a start to be considered a cold start after your first trip of the day? I would guess the important thing is oil remains "up" in the engine."
As with everything else, it depends.
If the OAT is 120 in the shade then an engine that is shutdown when at operating temperature could take hours to cool off. If the OAT is 20 below then it will be considered a cold start after only a half of an hour or so, certainly an hour at the most.
"Question. How long in hours does it take for a start to be considered a cold start after your first trip of the day? I would guess the important thing is oil remains "up" in the engine. "
Actually a good question. From a specification, R&D, design, test, manufacture test and improvement point of view, I do not really know the brass tacks technical view. However I know for example, OLM's count ALL starts, over a mileage parameter, i.e., 7,500,10,000, 15,000 miles OCI, with a known TBN, i.e., 7/12 (and in some diesel and power plant generator applications: HOURS) point of view. So a "START" is one factor (of many) in the algorithm/s used for the "useful oil life remaining" calculation/s.
Common wisdom indicates that so called "cold" starts are one major cause of wear.
Corrective actions might include use of "pre" oilers. However there are really no independent studies of how much longer use of a pre oiler will extend the life of those components affected. Most studies are from UOA's, from which a conclusion can be deduced. The OVERWHELMING majority of the passenger vehicle fleet do not use this mitigation.
Another is the use of bypass oil filtering. The concept here of course is to filter out from a smaller portion of oil those (smaller sized) particles which MAY be deposited as a combustion byproduct, internal engine wear or a combination there of, and redeposit the so called "filtered oil back into the over all sump. Any and all of those have been identified to increase wear in the oil using a given oil capacity. The OVERWHELMING majority of the passenger vehicle fleet do not use this mitigation.
Another common mitigation: use of 0w oils, which allow faster oil flow (to those areas of greatest wear), thus cutting down (faster)the lack of oil lubrication during early engine operation. The OVERWHELMING majority of the passenger vehicle fleet do not use this mitigation.
Hi I am new to the forum, but I do have quite extensive knowledge when it comes to the maintenance and repair of vehicles, as I am an aircraft mechanic.
I use only synthetic lubricants in my vehicles, lawn mowers, and anything else I own that has an engine on it. that being said I also use an engine oil analysis program to monitor the quality of the oil in my truck, a 2008 Ford F250 with the 6.4L powerstroke.
Synthetic lubricants can and regularly do last 25000 miles or more, I send mine off for analysis every 5000 miles to make sure it is still good for service, they send me bak the information on how my oil compares to new motor oil, and there isn't that much degradation over 5000 miles with synthetics. I buy my engine oil from an AMSOIL Dealer here locally, he has a website where I purchase it from it's www.supersynthetic.com . I will not put anything else in a vehicle, that is my personal preference. I am an aircraft mechanic, I have never in the last 9 1/2 years changed the oil on an aircraft turbine engine, I have changed lots of filters, but never the oil. Synthetic engine oils can last indeffinately provided they are monitored for degradation using oil analysis. I plan on running my engine oil until the tests come back that say The oil is no good anymore.
Interesting that the email address given on www.supersynthetic.com is "qball@supersynthetic.com", almost the same as the user ID on your first and only post here at Edmund's.
I guessing that you are hardly a disinterested party. Nice try, though. "Johnny, what do we have for our contestant?"
Well I think the same is true across the board. Why for example does Honda Civic have a 10,000 mile OCI (conventional oil, mind you) and almost every dealer tells you it should be changed at 3,000, MAX 5,000 miles! They usually in the same breath indicate if you go much beyond that, the consequences can be just shy of catastrophic blow up!!? :sick: Another is on Corvette boards there is a LARGE population who change( Mobil One synthetic) oil @ 3,000 miles when up to 15,000 with an OLM is recommended!?
Yet not many people question the behavior of changing @ 5,000 miles when 10,000 miles will do!? Nor the almost ridiculous (on the Corvette boards) 3,000 mles when 15,000 will do!?
i just put it in my sunfire...it is full synthetic...was 10 bucks a gallon at aap...any opinions on this product?...is a 8k oci reasonable?...hiway driving, no stop and go
Is SYNPOWER a Group IV synthetic oil? I've seen noise suggesting either way, however, the Valvoline web site seems to suggest that it uses Group IV base oils.
Assuming the above is the case, then yes, 8,000 mile OCIs should be just fine. After a couple of oil changes, you might want to consider sending in an oil sample and having it analyzed. My bet is that you'll find that 10,000 to 12,000 is perfectly acceptable.
Yes Mr. Galinak and I share the same nick name of Qball, because we are both white and we are both bald, I assure you though that is all we have in common. we are not the same person, and it is not him posting on here in my place. you want to email me email me at qball030406@clearwire.net. You have a question about amsoil email him at his address, but don't insult my intelligence by accusing me of advertising for my own buisness and my own gain, I told you who I bought my oil from, what I do for a living, you know what Mr. Galinak does for a living, he sells AMSOIL, I am an Aircraft mechanic, to totally unrelated fields, I don't like selling things or dealing with people in a sales role. Mr Galinak evidentally does like dealing with people, as he chose to be an Independant Amsoil Dealer. I am a disinterested party altair4, I was just stating the facts that I have regarding synthetic lubricants.
That was my first and only post until now, and I look foreward to posting here again, and again.
Have a great Day qball1976 not to be confused with qball@supersynthetic.com
No hard feelings, It could have been me doing the same thing if I saw people have similar nick names. I would have kept it private though and asked discreetly to minimise the affects of assumption, as we all know what happens when we assume.
Valvoline is very vague on describing what Synpower is, from reading the valvoline site, I gather that Synpower is truely manufactured from Group IV base stocks, but they don't just come out and say that. I would love to see some test results compared to competing synthetic oils to see weather or not it performs as good as other synthetic oils.
Valvoline is very vague on describing what Synpower is, from reading the valvoline site, I gather that Synpower is truely manufactured from Group IV base stocks, but they don't just come out and say that. I would love to see some test results compared to competing synthetic oils to see weather or not it performs as good as other synthetic oils.
Since the arbitration of the definition of synthetic, which can mean that a hydrocracked product can be termed "synthetic"; it seems to me that if they do not come out and say group IV, it most likely is NOT "synthetic" but indeed, hydrocracked.
Comments
Given what you have posted,
..."simply because the oil life is so long per the monitor that there's no point switching to synthetic. My current batch of oil is 6 months and 4K miles old, and the monitor is only at 50%. That's good enough for me, although it has burned about 0.8 qt of oil. "...
You would have to burn brain cells on this issue when it is obvious that you would rather use in other places. Besides 5w20 conventional is a VERY ROBUST oil!!! Or let me put it more to the point. Oils that claim meeting the 5w20 Ford/Honda standards meet very high standards. I would have no hesitation in running 5w20 conventional oil 10,000 miles in a 2004 Honda Civic! As a point of departure, what the OLM is telling you is you are not driving your vehicle as gently as YOU perceive. Please understand I mean NO offense, but am merely reading the data you presented. So in terms of your data, "GENTLE" would indicate 5,000 miles at 40-50%.
In so far as burning .8 qt or 25.6 oz in 4,000 miles, that is perfectly in keeping with the normal stuff the dealer will tell you ie 1 qt in 1000-1500 miles is NORMAL.
BUT.... In the 2004 Honda Civic I run 0w20 Mobil One, 20,000 mile OCI's At most in 20,000 miles, I consume to the middle of the dipstick. Now I can not get to the precise oz as Honda does not seem to go by 1 quart low between min and max, but I know for sure half on the Honda Civic dipstick is less than 1/2 quart I am guessing 1/4 or 8 oz. Or this is what I SWAG that I add since I like to keep it AT MAX on the dipstick. So as a practical matter since it does fall between min and max I really do not need to top until the oil change at 20,000 miles interval.
Again the perception issue. My take is moderate to aggressive flogging, every so often is a good thing!
Mobil 1 can go 15k miles. I would not trust Valvoline to hold up that long.
blufz1:
Thanks. I'm not worried about voiding the warranty, or about the car. I actually trust myself more when it comes to oil changes. But I AM considering buying Honda's OEM oil filters from now on, as opposed to using aftermarket ones.
I also agree with the last two posts. I would have no issues using a FRAM. Note worthy, the Civic technical data indicates an every other OCI FILTER change. For my Civic that is 20,000 miles! Indeed I have run a past (since sold) Toyota Landcruiser app 250,000 miles on 17/18 PH8A FRAMS. I guess I am a belt and suspenders kind of guy!
Off topic, I have been running "cartridge type" (Mann's if anyone is interested) oil filters on a VW Jetta TDI. In app 100,000 miles, it appears to be a lot easier to deal with than any spin on I have ever used and I have been using them for over 50 years. Basically the oem builds only to 4 of typically 11 component pieces for a spin on filter. Therefore the resultant filter saves money!! So in theory all that savings (in theory of course) can go into "BETTER" quality media. One just R/R's the filter media only and literally spins on and off the plastic cap. The media has a design life of 30,000 miles. I do a 25,000 mile OCI so I don't even change it much anymore. Life is good!
The real HOT deal in add on, so called BY PASS oil filtering is the Amsoil EA model line!! One word: PRICEY !!!!!! 17-25 bux per filter! This does not count app $200-300 for (bypass) equipment and installation. It really filters down to small microns!!!! All indications by way of UOA's indicate it literally almost SCRUB's the oil. Now what this means about equipment longevity in the real world from a statistical analysis point of view remains to be seen.
Still I understand the numbers to be almost unbelieveable!! One can of course project, but how the projection turns in to reality is/can be a WAY different story. However if the projections are true, for me; I would be able to go from a 25,000 mile OCI to a CONSERVATIVE 50,000 mile OCI!!!??? 60-75,000 miles OCI would not be out of the question!!! WOW! Noteworthy, since it filters out down to very very fine microns, it actually cleans up new out of the bottle from the factory oil!!!!!!!!!! This alone is truly WEIRD.
Since the Amsoil EA product line is still very new, real world longitudinal UOA's still are being slowly collected and featured in www.bobsistheoilguy.com.
Best Regards,
Shipo
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=154461&highlight=amsoil+bypass+oil
Best Regards,
Shipo
Most other cars have your mentioned "idiot" gauge display, which was what I was thinking of before your post, which led to the dead level comment.
In the winter it would stabalize at 89 degrees C and on a hot day in the summer it would be about 110 degrees C.
I just had an air bubble in the cooling system of my Jeep 4.0; it "fixed" itself in a couple of days. Many BMW systems can be a real bear to bleed. Some have two or more bleeder screws.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
An engine is considered cold until oil temp has reached 90 degrees C.
As with everything else, it depends.
If the OAT is 120 in the shade then an engine that is shutdown when at operating temperature could take hours to cool off. If the OAT is 20 below then it will be considered a cold start after only a half of an hour or so, certainly an hour at the most.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Actually a good question. From a specification, R&D, design, test, manufacture test and improvement point of view, I do not really know the brass tacks technical view. However I know for example, OLM's count ALL starts, over a mileage parameter, i.e., 7,500,10,000, 15,000 miles OCI, with a known TBN, i.e., 7/12 (and in some diesel and power plant generator applications: HOURS) point of view. So a "START" is one factor (of many) in the algorithm/s used for the "useful oil life remaining" calculation/s.
Common wisdom indicates that so called "cold" starts are one major cause of wear.
Corrective actions might include use of "pre" oilers. However there are really no independent studies of how much longer use of a pre oiler will extend the life of those components affected. Most studies are from UOA's, from which a conclusion can be deduced. The OVERWHELMING majority of the passenger vehicle fleet do not use this mitigation.
Another is the use of bypass oil filtering. The concept here of course is to filter out from a smaller portion of oil those (smaller sized) particles which MAY be deposited as a combustion byproduct, internal engine wear or a combination there of, and redeposit the so called "filtered oil back into the over all sump. Any and all of those have been identified to increase wear in the oil using a given oil capacity. The OVERWHELMING majority of the passenger vehicle fleet do not use this mitigation.
Another common mitigation: use of 0w oils, which allow faster oil flow (to those areas of greatest wear), thus cutting down (faster)the lack of oil lubrication during early engine operation. The OVERWHELMING majority of the passenger vehicle fleet do not use this mitigation.
I use only synthetic lubricants in my vehicles, lawn mowers, and anything else I own that has an engine on it. that being said I also use an engine oil analysis program to monitor the quality of the oil in my truck, a 2008 Ford F250 with the 6.4L powerstroke.
Synthetic lubricants can and regularly do last 25000 miles or more, I send mine off for analysis every 5000 miles to make sure it is still good for service, they send me bak the information on how my oil compares to new motor oil, and there isn't that much degradation over 5000 miles with synthetics. I buy my engine oil from an AMSOIL Dealer here locally, he has a website where I purchase it from it's www.supersynthetic.com . I will not put anything else in a vehicle, that is my personal preference. I am an aircraft mechanic, I have never in the last 9 1/2 years changed the oil on an aircraft turbine engine, I have changed lots of filters, but never the oil. Synthetic engine oils can last indeffinately provided they are monitored for degradation using oil analysis. I plan on running my engine oil until the tests come back that say The oil is no good anymore.
Have a great day
qball1976
Interesting that the email address given on www.supersynthetic.com is "qball@supersynthetic.com", almost the same as the user ID on your first and only post here at Edmund's.
I guessing that you are hardly a disinterested party. Nice try, though. "Johnny, what do we have for our contestant?"
Yet not many people question the behavior of changing @ 5,000 miles when 10,000 miles will do!? Nor the almost ridiculous (on the Corvette boards) 3,000 mles when 15,000 will do!?
Assuming the above is the case, then yes, 8,000 mile OCIs should be just fine. After a couple of oil changes, you might want to consider sending in an oil sample and having it analyzed. My bet is that you'll find that 10,000 to 12,000 is perfectly acceptable.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I am a disinterested party altair4, I was just stating the facts that I have regarding synthetic lubricants.
That was my first and only post until now, and I look foreward to posting here again, and again.
Have a great Day
qball1976 not to be confused with qball@supersynthetic.com
My apologies to gbal1976. Simply goes to show that when we jump to conclusions, we screw up bigtime.
Sorry.
qball1976
qball1976
qball1976