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Comments
Someone mentioned his were torqued to 120 lb-ft! Now THAT is a problem!
-juice
In response to your question about over tightening of lug nuts. I'll defer to Juice and Colin and the others who are more knowledgeable than me but over and unevenly tightening them can warp the rotors rather quickly. Also, I don't know how tight is too tight. Juice's observation that overly tight lug nuts can also damage (bend) the wheels is another big concern.
When I got in the car after the 7500 mile servicing my attention was immediately focused on the two greasy heel marks left on the driver's side floor mat by the "mechanic". I suspected that he or she was not overly concerned about the quality of their work or about treating a customer's vehicle as if it was his own. A few weeks later my assumption was validated.
Vince
85lb-ft isn't impossible to remove at all, especially with air tools. The reason air tools are better is because the force they deliver is in small, repetitive blows that are more effective and less stressful on the threads than linear torque.
-Colin
Their tire prices are VERY good and they provide FREE lifetime (life of the tire) rotations and tire repairs.
Bit
Mike@bitman.com
The catch is they only offer their warranty and free rotation for life if you buy the tires there, and their selection is very limited (maybe 2 tires of your size).
Discount Tire Direct and Tire Rack have dozens of options, and prices are lower. Though Costco does beat the other retailers.
-juice
Thanks.
Some shops over-tighten the drain plugs, forget the drain plug gasket, or overfill. Fitzgerald is usually pretty good, so I'm surprised. My cousin always goes there.
If it's just barely above the line, you'll probably be fine. If it's half inch above the line, take it back and ask them to do it right. Also ask to make sure the drain plug is properly (not over-) tightened.
-juice
I'd be curious to hear other's experience.
By the way, no biggie if it's only overfilled a little, but it can cause leaks and seal damage if it's overfilled a lot (like twice as much as recommended). I don't think you need to worry about it though.
Craig
-Colin
Half a quart too high is probably OK. Grossly overfilled and you could have a problem.
-juice
Thanks.
If you've ever seen the instructions that come with some of the parts, you'll know what I mean!
-juice
Engine Temp: Cold vs warm vs hot
Drip Time (time between shutting off engine and reading dipstick): 30 seconds vs 2 minutes vs 24 hours
Level Surface: Tilt left vs right vs front vs back.
While at the in-laws in Florida I did a hot oil change and let it drain until the drips were few and far between. Added 4.25 quarts of oil and a new filter. I started the car, ran it for a minute or two and then shut it off. I immediately checked the oil and had a reading just below full. After sitting for another 5 minutes it was
just above full. After sitting for nearly 24 hours I checked again an it was a little above the hot notch. After running on the highway for 3 or 4 hours I checked again at a rest area on what seemed to be fairly level pavement and got a below full reading. After sitting for 5 or so minutes the dipstick read right at or slightly over the hot notch. The next day after another 300 or so highway miles I checked it at a gas station just after shutting off and it was half way between full and low. Moved the car to a perhaps more flat spot and waited a few minutes and it read right at the hot notch. I repeated this experience for the next 2000 miles including the hot notch reading cold after sitting 24 hours. Once home (3000 miles since change) I changed the oil and drained exactly 4 quarts from the crankcase and filter. I imagine there was a little in the filter element and either I burned some or a little was still hanging in the engine. Even if I burned a quarter quart in 3000 miles at mostly 70-80 mph loaded and climbing mountain passes I won't be too concerned.
Hot oil runs off the dipstick but if you wipe it with a clean rag, jam it in and pull it out you will get a fairly good reading. But if the oil is really hot it will be difficult to read as it will be thin and runny. Also, you will get a different reading on the backside of the dipstick. The boxer engine must take a long time to drain oil into the oil pan.
The bottom line is to pick a consistent place, engine temp and drip time to take a reading. Do this right after you know there is 4.2 quarts in the crankcase and you will have a benchmark for future readings. Don't trust anyone but yourself to stick 4.2 quarts of oil in your car. I found out the hard way as the dealer in Appleton filled mine so that when hot and after dripping for 5 minutes it was a good inch above the hot notch. My wife found out that even "good" mechanics tend to pour in the whole last quart rather stopping at the prescribed partial quart on her Honda. The question is why would a dealer and don't they have a bulk oil dispenser that can be set to a specified quantity?
Bit
I've seen some shops that had a barrel of oil, and a hose coming down that literally poured it in when you pull a trigger.
Perhaps shops tend to overfill because customers feel like they're getting more for their money? Just a thought...
-juice
I think it's a great idea to "calibrate" your dipstick habits so you know what's really a correct reading for your particular situation. I have always read oil levels on a cold engine (or one that has not been running for at least 2-3 hours), and as flat a surface as possible. Haven't seen much variation with that particulat "habit". I would definitely avoid checking the oil on a hot engine -- there are all sorts of baffles and valves designed to maintain oil pressure in an engine, and you really need to give the oil time to drain and settle out before attempting any sort of repeatable measurement. Sort of like trying to measure the liquid contained in a sponge before you squeeze it out!
I'm sure you could easily have had 0.25-0.5 qt of oil in the filter -- they usually account for about that much in my experience. Even after you dump the fliter out, there is a fair amount still soaked into the element.
Craig
-juice
First thing I did was check the rear seat area. Made sure it was in place properly (seat back locked in place, etc.) Checked the spare tire, jack, rear cargo shade. All secure. Tire PSI at 31 all around. Jacked up the left side and did a quick visual. Wheel is not loose; nothing appeared broken. But it is difficult to spot something if you don't know what that something is.
Then I took it for a ride. Adjusted the side mirrors to allow me to see the rear wheels as much as I could. It was hard to see clearly, but I appeared as if the rear wheel(s) bounce/skip a few extra times after going over one of those bumps.
I'm going to take it to our dealer tomorrow and get it checked out. Since I don't know what's causing the noise, I'll most certainly drive another OB wagon to see if the noise appears and have a mechanic ride along with me in my OB so he can hear the noise.
-brian/subearu
Have them check your shocks. Also have them look at your rear anti-roll bar. It may help to grease that up a bit - I've heard that can cause the noise.
-juice
When I was underneath it yesterday, I did grab hold of the anti-roll bar. Didn't seem loose, but I could flex/move it if I applied some pressure. And I did notice some very minor fluid seepage on the shock (where the piston comes out).
-brian/subearu
My suggestion is to grease the bushings that hold that roll bar in place. You'll need ramps to see them, and may need to remove and replace them. I think it's a 12mm socket.
Though the leak you saw may be the culprit.
-juice
Jerry
We'd enjoyed 17,000 trouble-free miles in about 14 months of ownership until two weeks ago, when my wife was driving on a highway about 15 miles from our home and the engine began to overheat very quickly. She made it home, but we had to have the car towed to our dealer because the overheating had thoroughly damaged the engine. Our dealer's mechanic informed us that the problem was with a thermostat that is used to regulate engine temperature. When that thermostat malfunctioned, the engine coolant simply wasn't used, and the engine quickly overheated.
The mechanic had to replace about 3/4 of our engine. Everything was under warranty, and the dealer did provide us with a rental car, but the diagnosis and repair of the problem took two and a half full weeks. The primary reason for the delay was in figuring out just what had happened - apparently, this was the first time our dealer's mechanic had encountered a broken thermostat.
Has anyone encountered similar problems?
Richard - well, there was one guy at FATT (Friday at the Track) that had problems overheating, but that's in a racing scenario. I've never heard people complain about that.
So long as the dealer covers it all, you should be good to go.
-juice
That's the first I've heard of a broken thermostat too. My Forester has been great in triple digit weather in bumper to bumper traffic with A/C on high.
Ken
Ken
Then again, I didn't notice much difference in air flow either. Maybe your senses are more refined?
-juice
I've also noticed that the rear is bouncing a bit more over dips in the road. So, it's gotta be the shocks.
Ken - no brine like smell from the filter in our Outback. Maybe a contaminated set of filters?
-brian/subearu
Cheers!
Patti
The air filtration filters are paper, so I can't see how they'd get contaminated without you knowing about it.
-juice
Craig
Any chance I could get an update on my case (253349)? I was getting worried last night because the squeak was so bad. Everything sounds so dry. Another OBS owner in PA just had a new clutch assembly installed (after 2 or 3 prior throw-out bearing replacements) and his squeak returned the next day. I gave him my case number and his service dept. may contact you guys. I'm taking a friend shopping for cars this weekend and the Legacy GT is on her list. I'm sure when she gets into my car she'll say "What the heck is that? And you want me to get a Subaru??".
I must say that SoA's handling of my problem has been excellent!!
Dennis
When I called my service advisor I said "I have a problem with my brakes". He immediately interjected asking if they were squeaking when the brakes were being lightly applied and sometimes under regular braking. He knew my problem before I even explained it to him!! My dealer continues to amaze me with the knowledge they have on Subaru and with their awareness of repeat problems. I may be overdoing it for some of you, but prior to Soob, my experiences with the Big Three has been, lets just say, less than satisfying.
It seems that, as someone posted earlier, the pads are made of extremely dense metallic material to increase their longevity. Sometimes, they become a bit too smooth and/or contaminated with dirt, thus causing the squeaking. My dealer has seen it on numerous Soobs and immediately offered to clean and rough up the surfaces.
2000 0B, approx 7,000 miles.
Nice to find good, no-nonsense service.
-juice
The suspension noise/creak/squeak is not dependent on temperature. But, it is getting more noticeable, especially outside of the vehicle.
I gotta say though that both of these things are just minor probs. to us. We still our quite proud of her - 'Sue Bear' we call her. We'll be even happier when we get it back after the repairs!
Anyone know how the shocks might go bad like this? Did they crank it down too hard on the trailer? Bad set?
-brian/subearu
Ross
-brian/subearu
Good news though - they cleaned up the brakes. So, the noise should be gone now.
I've emailed QSubaru to see if she stocks any struts.
-brian/subearu
2. Where do I place jack stands?
3. Suggestions for differential and manual tranny fluids.
And last with all the talk on these boards regarding tires I am stumped as to what to do for my occasional treks to the Sierras this winter. The GT has the RE92s and it seems a lot of folks think they are useless in snow. I hate to think I need to replace them at 10k miles or even buy a set of winter tires for perhaps a dozen trips into winter weather. Can I drive these tires in the snow with any cofidence?
Bit
Large floor jack = under engine crossmember, under rear differential.
Put one jackstand under each frame rail while front or rear is off the ground. If you need to raise the left/right side instead of front/rear, I use a floor jack on the frame rails as far forward or rearward as possible.
-Colin
Well, not usually; always so far.
I think it is some venting problem, but when I took it in to the dealer, they refused to listen to my comment about the gas cap, and insisted on putting it through all sorts of electronic diagnostics (I made an appointment and did not keep it.)
Shoot, I can't afford hundreds to diagnose what to me clearly relates to the gas or fuel lines - the only thing that works, and it always works, is popping the gas tank cap.
BTW, once it stalled on flat road, but when I pulled of the street I noticed that the gas cap cover door was open. Some odd reverse pressure thing?
What do you folks think? Gas line? Gas filter?? Some odd pressure valve in the tank???
RSVP ASAP - so far I've had to go many miles out of my way to insure that I do not go up too sharp an incline.
my 2 cents worth... good luck!
Cheers!
Paul
Craig
-Colin
Richard
I guess I'm disappointed that the one dealer in our area doesn't stock items like this. Aren't dealers required to stock certain items?
-brian/subearu
So no, I'm not at all surprised that part is not in your dealers on-hand inventory.
-Colin