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The trade-in is tough....but it may be where you can negotiate some...it just depends on the car. If it is nice enough to put on their lot you can probably negotiate a little. If it will be sent to auction, they won't negotiate much if at all.
Still, you can always offer to buy the car at the price you really want to pay and see if they bite. But, they are really trying to be low pressure there. I test drove cars on five different occasions and they never once asked if I wanted to talk numbers or "what can we do to get a sale today". It sounds like you didn't have to negotiate to get what turns out to be a buying service's price which was what I noticed about the dealership.
like paint sealant and so on so the price is actually 26436$. What is the lowest price I can get on such a vehicle?
Keep looking for the car you want. Don't settle for something else. You'll regret doing so every time you get behind the wheel.
Also--can anyone in the DC Metro area help me figure out if the Accord Hybrid qualifies for the HOV exemption? I don't think it does--VDOT website doesn't mention it and I haven't seen every many out there on 66 when I drive in with my wife.
There are some good resources on car buying, such as Edmunds or from James Bragg's web site, fightingchance. He also has a book, "Car Buyers Bible". If you prefer someone else to gather quotes, you might try the carbargains web site. It is a little pricey, but from what I've read, a reputable service.
It's hard to decipher many of the quotes listed in these messages. OTD prices are meaningless for the forum since taxes and gov't fees vary depending on location. However, some buyers are getting quotes (including dest. fee, before TTL) of more than $1,800 below dealer invoice (see msgs 11476, 11444, 11491). Others have listed quotes of more than $1,200 below dealer invoice (msgs 11490, 11519, 11499, 11473). Most seem to getting at least $750 below, with some getting $1,000 or more below dealer invoice. Price comparison would be much easier if people quoted the price below dealer invoice, with the doc fee, but excluding TTL.
Two dealers advertise prices over the net, Grand Honda in Chicago & Berlin City in NH. Those prices tend to be at least $1,600 under dealer invoice. Grand says their quotes include the $550 destination fee, Berlin City doesn't say (maybe doesn't). Their dealer processing fees aren't listed either. It seems other dealers shouldn't be excessively more expensive than these dealers.
Sale Price $22,517.86
3% NC Tax $675.54
Tags $69.00
Doc Fee $299.00
Total Price $23,561.40
I have five Accord EX-L's on my lot. I only have 2 Alabaster Silvers though. One has the black leather interior and the other has the gray leather interior.
Dealer in Asheboro, NC has a Dark Gray Accord EX-L at $21995 plus any accessories, tax, tag
and fee.
Just avoid Crown in Greensbor at all cost
Sale Price $22,517.86
3% NC Tax $675.54
Tags $69.00
Doc Fee $299.00
Total Price $23,561.40
I have five Accord EX-L's on my lot. I only have 2 Alabaster Silvers though. One has the black leather interior and the other has the gray leather interior.
Dealer in Asheboro, NC has a Dark Gray Accord EX-L at $21995 plus any accessories, tax, tag
and fee.
Just avoid Crown in Greensboro at all cost
Good luck on buying your new car.
Honda of Lisle - $20,540 with $550 destination fee
Oak Lawn Honda - $20,278 without $550 destination fee
Then I visited Honda of Joliet who quoted me in person $20,888 w/$550 included, then let me walk out when I told them they were way too much.
Then I decided to go to Honda of Lisle in person. I walked in and they quoted me $22,345 w/$550 included. I laughed and told them if they beat Oak Lawns price of $20,278 and include the $550 destination fee I would purchase the car. The salesman came back with $20,200 w/$550 included so here is the final calculations:
Car - $19,650.00
Dest. - $550.00
Doc - $57.30
Sub-total -$20,257.30
Tax 6.75% $1,367.37
New Plates - $143.00
TOTAL - $21,767.67
Thanks to everyone for their help.
Here's a *BIG* thank you to everyone who has contributed information to this forum....the data and comments allowed us to go in prepared, knowing what we would pay and ready to counter all the usual salesperson befuddlements.
And - is it my imagination, or is the Accord an amazing bargain these days? It's a very nice car to begin with, and at $4000 off sticker it seems like a nice deal, too.
Honda may not be a luxury brand like BMW, Lexus, Mercedes, Infiniti, etc... but I'll take money in my pocket over the "prestige of ownership" any day of the week. In fact, I did some calculations a few months back, and figured out that after taking into account the price differential (and a reasonable appreciation of the money saved) between a new Honda Accord and a BMW 3 Series, the true depreciation of those cars after five years was 49% for the BMW but only 27% for the Honda Accord.
As for my calculations, my numbers might be off based on Edmunds numbers. Edmunds figures that the depreciation on the BMW (priced originally at around $37k) is somewhere around $19k after five years (with typical options), leaving a residual value of $18k. Edmunds figures that the depreciation on the Honda Accord (priced originally around $24k) is somewhere around $12k, leaving a residual value of $12k. Based on the foregoing numbers, the BMW depreciates 51% after five years, whereas the Honda Accord depreciates 50% after five years. Pretty even, right? Wrong. If you take the original price differential of $13k, and invest that for 5 years at 9% a year (the average gain of the stock market over the last 75 years), you will have $20k at the end of the 5-year period. Add that $20k to the $12k your EX-L would be worth after five years, and you have a residual "value" of $32k for the Honda Accord, versus $18k for the BMW. The Honda Accord is "worth" approximately 33% MORE than you paid for it (or 133%), while the BMW is worth 50%.
The foregoing calculations don't take into account things like repair costs, which are $631 for the Honda and $2,225 for the BMW over five years -- a 350% difference in repair costs.
Price: 18866.02
Tax: 565.98
License and Title: 69.00
Processing Fee: 249.00
TOTAL: 19750.00
How'd I do?"
I'm in high point too, come pick me up!!!
am considering leasing an accord-- i see all these good prices you are paying... i assume these prices would not be had if you were leasing?? the incentives currently *$750 0ff/$1000 off for coupes) are only if you buy, not lease?
When we bought our 2006 Accord 4 cyl from him, he gave us the best price the FIRST time I talked to him AND he gave me a significantly higher price on our trade in--over the phone. In fact, he honored the trade in price when I came in while another dealership (in Aberdeen) started waffling and reduced their price. Needless to say, I walked out the door and they lost my business.
Bryan Honda. Recommend.
Honda California said this was a 'feature' so that if the gas pedal stuck you could put the car in neutral. This is a lame reason for this design since you could put any car into neutral if that occurred. The real serious problem here is that you can inadvertently downshift. All buyers of Honda's should be aware of this. No one I've spoke to about this - mechanics, drivers and police - feel this is a good feature - all have said not good. This also applies to the column shift vehicles but they are less likely to get knocked out of gear.
Would appreciate knowing if other buyers were aware of this. I certainly will never buy another Honda, I want a car that is safe.
i've owned various honda accords since 1983-- have no idea what you're talking about.... floor shifts? column shifts? you mean automatics? usually what i do if i want to shift to D for drive is, I look at the D for drive on the dash or the actual faceplate, and shift to it. most folks have mastered this art. with some, it takes practice.
All cars for many, many years have a simple slide into Neutral from Drive...this is at ;east 40-50 years old that I know about...my Mom's '53 Buick did it and etc., etc., etc. Let's see, a 1986 Chevette, 1987 Mustang and all others that I know about...including a 1972 VW with automatic shift! They all had the same Neutral/Drive free movement...maybe you are misinterpreting just how your car is supposed to operate.
But what is worse is that when you pull the shift to get back to drive, it actually downshifts to D3.
My 2005 Accord only shifts where you want it to...banging, without looking, the shift lever into D3 instead of putting it in Drive when you shift from Neutral will simulate your problem.
Sorry to hear about what may be your buyer's remorse, but you are really in the market for an auto with a shift gate so that you can shift easier...but they still allow a Drive to Neutral seamless movement. Did you feel you paid too much for your Accord or is this your first quality car?
accord LX - so I know for sure what quality really is!!!! I don't have a problem with going from drive to neutral. but you can go from neutral to D3 without pushing the button on the shift - this is what could cause damage to the transmission especially downshifting if at high speed. The shift should stop at drive - not go to D3.
My 1996 Accord operates in the same manner, as did our 1990 Accord, 1992 Accord, 1993 Accord, 2000 Accord, 2000 Odyssey, 2002 CR-V, and 2005 Accord. In fact, our Chrysler Sebring Convertible (unreliable as it was) had the same method. Go try all the midsizers, I'll eat my hat if they don't function the same way.
Paid 24200+TTL included wheel locks mud guards,and trunk tray. The navi 4cyl was hard to get in Charleston,SC. So we bought from Superior motors in Orangeburg. They would not budge on the $750 dealer incentive.
Added:
Rear wing spoiler-$400 installed
Moonroof visor-$100 installed
This is our 4th honda and love the navi, so easy to use. Wish they would move the moonroof controls to the center roof. Getting 29.6 mpg so far.
trade involved?
thanks.
What do you guys think? It seems to be pretty good based on edmunds's TMV.
I'm hoping to lease and with the crazy low money factor out there right now, I could actually lease this LX V6 for less than a LX 4 cyl 5 speed (I think).
Nice! Its been a long time since I've been able to add to the "top 10 silly complaints" list. Thanks for changing that.
But what is worse is that when you pull the shift to get back to drive, it actually downshifts to D3.
"It" is not doing anything. YOU are downshifting it. Get your foot of the gas and shift it back into D and everthing will be dandy. What the heck are you shifting into neutral for anyway?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Here is my deal:
$17990 + tax + fees, OTD $19300. How did I do?
btw, got quote from Grand Honda for $18100. Feel that could have done better.
What's the deal??
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
2006 Accord 4-cyl EX-L Manual, Carbon Bronze Pearl, Black Interior...
$21,737 = Invoice
+$550 = Destination
-$750 = Dealer cash back
-$300 = Negotiations
$21,237 = Subtotal
+$1061.85 = Tax
+$241 = Tags & Title & Processing Fee
$22,539.85 = TOTAL
It's a beautiful car, and my wife and I are very happy with it so far.