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I am in the suburbs of DC in Virginia. Not sure on the tax percentage, I'm relatively new here.
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How was the sticker price over $30,000? It should've been $29,300 + $550 for destination.
The final OTD price of my Honda Accord EX coupe w/o leather was $22,568 (3.1% tax). That price is quite high compared to the market price. However I was in a rush to get a car so I compromised. I would suggest no one to surrender above the invoice for this model in this market.
The test-driving was good, pressure-free. However, the sale person (and later one of the tech person) mis-informed me that the stereo is mp3-compatible. I probably should have done my homework better, but it's no excuse for them to have the wrong product knowledge.
I came back two days later to talk about the price. That's when the haggling gets really frustrating.
The sales person first offered the sticker price (almost $24K). She said the car was hard to locate and she got the only one nailed. She also talked about the processing fee is unchangable, theMaryland has higher tax rate, etc. After some back and forth, about 5 offers, we agreed at the price above. This took nearly 2 hours of negotiation.
I intended to lease and was assured that I could get a fair lease. The sales person ask me to fill some forms about my financial status. She said nothing about whether students could lease. My second big mistake was that I signed the promissory note and gave her $1K deposit before we talk about the lease details. It was quite late so I wanted to talk about lease the other day.
I came back the day after to negotiate the lease. The financial advisor first offered $389/month for 24 months, with $2k downpayment. After some back and forth, he came back and tell me a student, without income, could not either lease or loan. And even if I have income, the lease would be around $500/month because Honda does not provide incentive for this model. BTW, my credit score is about 720.
I have no problem with the fact that students could not loan or lease (although i am surprised, as I thought students are one of the groups that frequently loans), but i have problem with the fact that the sales person failed to warn me in advance, after I filled out the financial status form.
(I signed the promissory note and gave the deposit on the condition that I could get a lease, so I may be able to sue for fraud and rescind the contract, although it will be hard to prove the oral representation)
Anyways, I end up buying the car with cash. I wouldn't say Bill Page Honda is a complete deceiver, or that one cannot get a fair deal from them; but they definitely will assess and work you til your last cent.
This is the first car that I bought all by myself (no help of others) and learned my lessons hard. It's a shame that when I drive home such a nice machine, I felt more being exploited than being satisfied.
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1) Can I get (or should I ask the dealer) the wheel locks removed?
2) Processing fee of $399 seems high...is this ever negotiable? I have had dealers tell me no way.
3) Is this a good deal or should I ask continue to ask for a better price?
Asked for $21,000 but settled for $21,537 (21,500 was my price; they said they wouldn't make a profit unless they added the extra $37. I didn't want to haggle over such a small amount, so I agreed). TTL was $264 (their fee was $165 for something + $5 for something else, and then license & registration & inspection). Tax = 5% in Mass.
Got a decent financing rate and a relatively good value for my 2001 Camry.
Minimal haggling over add-ons and the trade-in price, and they agreed NOT to put their logo on the back of my car. The actual purchase process took almost 2 hours, which was annoying, but minor.
Overall, it was a VERY pleasant experience. This forum was VERY helpful in my negotiation — I felt confident asking for my price, so thanks to those of you who posted before me.
1) I would think that they can remove these easily... but, check how much they are charging you. The wheel locks are a $35 item through places like hondaacuraworld.com (plus 4 bucks shipping) -- if they're charging you 100 bucks, then tell them to take a hike.
2) Use the dealer's own tactics to beat them on this point. Say "OK< then just reduce the selling price of the car by $399 (or whatever amount you can get taken off the price)." I have done this the last 3 times I've bought a car, and it works like a charm. All they care about is the total $ in their pockets at the end of the day. It doesn't matter if it comes from the price of the car, or from the "processing fee".
3) I'd say it's a good deal - although not the best I've seen on this board (that was around 23,500 or so). I don't know what the market is like down in VA, but it was pretty tight when we bought our '06 EX-L 4cyl AT w/Navi about a month ago...I paid about $24,100 here in CT, which tends to be higher priced than NYC area and Boston, since there isn't as much competition. I believe the 23,500 price mentioned above was in the Boston area. So, your 23,800 price is right in between.
The mud guards are a 65 dollar item, and are easy to install (30 minutes, tops, with a phillips head screwdriver)...check how much they added on for those, too.
One thing to remember is that the Navi units are relatively hard to find vs. non-Navi units...so, keep that in mind when deciding whether to take their deal (imho, I think it's a pretty good deal). I know that you will LOVE this vehicle (we do!) !
p.p.s. our vehicle is a partial-zero emissions vehicle, and I think that adds 100 bucks or so to the price.
imho, you should be able to get it down to the 23,500 to 23,900 range pretty easily... the final price will also depend on the market you're in (i.e. competitive ones like Boston or NYC vs. CT and others)...
I'm looking to buy an LX SE and I want to find out if the cash-to-dealer incentive on the Accord Sedan will continue into July, or if people think prices will go lower in July.
THANKS!!!
And if I buy a temp car to wait til the 2007s come out in full force and are everywhere (say Dec).. lordy, what kind of car to get and how much to spend?
Buying a car is hard!!!
Lowest quote I've received is $23718+taxes,lic., fees (=$25978 out the door).
Is this a good deal?
Anyone else seeing better quotes?
Thoughts??
Should I buy at this price?
BTW, anyone know which dealership(s) in the Great Northwest has deals like that??
PS. What color is this?
PPS. Let us know how you like it.
Should I assume that the price is not going to go under invoice price for the most part?? I did read some posts here of people getting their cars under invoice... are they just lucky?
PS I'm here in Kansas City
Price incl dest: $16410
Dealer & Doc fee: 499+21
Protection pkg: $289
Tax: 6%
O/D = 18250
Like the VP - Best value for money - less expansive than Civic !!!
use carsdirect to get the deal.
-A
I was quoted the exact same price for the same car from Dick Hannah Honda in Vancouver, WA (across from Portland). They actually had one in stock (Kendall didn't), but Hannah only had my second color choice. Kendall traded for the color I wanted from a dealership about an hour away from them without charging a driver fee. When I picked it up, the car included Honda mud guards and generic floor mats--nice touches. Just one other dealer in the area came within $110 of the Kendall/Hannah price. No one else was really competitive, including the big Ptld. dealers.
The documentation, title fee and temporary tag costs total $115. Sorry, I cannot help you with dealers in the NW (except the NW of Ohio!) but, believe me, even with good Honda deals, I'd rather be in the NW (of the US).
As I want a gray interior, my choices are limited; the one I prefer is Alabaster Silver Metallic, which (they say) they can get.
Thanks again.
Also, should i to wait for 2007's?
Thank you
The 2007 will be minimally changed, if changed at all.
The internet folks at Brown Honda in Toledo were direct and very pleasant to deal with; I take delivery in two days or so, and I expect there'll be no snags. Thanks to all Board posters.
Price for the car, including destination $20,500. Price OTD including accessories, TTL (mud guards, pin striping, wheel locks, some stupid paint protection) - $22,450.
I purchased the car in MD since I had a trip down to DC for 2 weeks for work and drove it home.
Good Luck with yours!
I have called the local and regional dealers and emailed them many times over the last week and a half. So far the lowest I can get anyone in my Hampton Roads area is 23600 (but only on an in stock car, and they have none in stock!). The next lowest is 23800 and the other dealers are all about 24400. Of course I am being told by the dealers at 24400, that there is no way to go lower and that they are not making any money on the car, and that the dealers who are selling at 23800 and less are "selling at a loss". I have told them I want to pay 23300 but I have not been able to get any of them to even get near this price. I have shown them my quotes via edmunds, ran the numbers with them and even tried to validate my price by using the 3% hold back and $750 dealer marketing incentive and this has only been met with explanations about how this money is really not theirs yet (till the end of the quarter), that they need this money to pay the lights, etc, etc...lots of bs...
Any additional advice? Thanks in advance!