Hyundai Azera Service

sundevilssundevils Member Posts: 100
edited May 2014 in Hyundai
I just received my first mailing with coupons from my dealer, North County Hyundai in Carlsbad, CA.

Oil change = 34.95 (regular price not provided)
7,500 service = 49.95 (regular price = 69.95)
15,000 service = 179.95 (regular price = 199.95)
30,000 service = 175.95, 290.95, or 559.95 (the later two include one or more of the biggest service department profit items: cooling system flush, transmission flush, fuel induction service)

Bottom line - these prices (even with the coupon) are highway robbery. For those who aren't do-it-yourself (or who aren't allowed due to HOA restrictions on doing car repairs at your home) where are people taking their cars for service?


  • vjk6666vjk6666 Member Posts: 29
    Enough blogging on removing that good looking "H".. (Why make your AZERA look incomplete)? And on to important things like .. Is the AZERA oil filter replacement readily available?
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel a Certified Edmunds Poster.Member Posts: 18,841
    Enough blogging on removing that good looking "H".. (Why make your AZERA look incomplete)? And on to important things like .. Is the AZERA oil filter replacement readily available?

    Or how about something really important like how to get the logo off those readily available Azera oil filters. :P

    ducking and running

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • jim101jim101 Member Posts: 252
    Just had the first oil change completed.

    Now listen up, I had them check the alignment, four wheel, because I thought it was a little out.

    Well the printout came back from the tech, ALL FOUR corners were out and needed to be adjusted, not alot, just a tweak here and there. The cost of this, zip, nadda, freebe. Why???

    Because it's covered under the 12/12 adjustment warranty and yes, you do have to tell the service person and then they acknowledge that it's a free service.
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    These prices sound reasonable to me and in line with dealer service prices for other makes/models as well. A few months ago I went in for a 30K mile service for my Dodge Durango, and doing just the maintenance suggested in the manual (not the dealer package) was close to $400.00 (the "big" services were transmission flush, transfer case fluid change, front and rear differential fluid change and various system checks). I do my own oil changes, but the dealer would charge $40 for an oil change and tire rotation if I used them.

    The 15K service (for just items listed in the owners manual) is $200.

    The Azera is full of modern technology components and I would just let the dealer handle the maintenance on it...just waiting for Hyundai to get the factory installed XM satellite radio going and then it will be time to get serious about owning one :shades:
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    vjkm there is a seller on Ebay that is a Hyundai dealer, is selling the filters for $6.85 (I think), based in CT or NJ if memory serves me. I ordered 3 and they are the stock Hyundai part. It also includes the two gaskets that need to be replaced when you change oil.

    Other sellers are getting upwards of $20 to buy online, plus shipping.

    Has anyone performed their own Oil change on the Azera? Any "gotchas" that you can advise the Forum to watch for?
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    My local dealer charges 30 bucks for oil change including filter. Semi sythentic oil.
    Why would one pay 20 bucks for filter plus shipping for filter alone?
    The dealer checks and adds all other fluids and adjusts air in tires at no additional charge.
    I believe they even washed the car.
  • ratledgeratledge Charleston county, South CarolinaMember Posts: 233
    I don't know: most new car manuals state those type of things, but the dealers all tell you "it's not your father's Oldsmobile" and to drive it like you would any other car. Now, I'm not saying "drive it like you stole it", but - be reasonable and I'm cerain everything will be just fine!

    Most every car made always told you to "bring the car in for service" at 1000 miles until a few years ago. Now, the dealer doesn't need to see you until 7500 miles, and that should be a clue for those folks that insist on 3000 mile oil-change intervals: that's your father's Oldsmobile. Any car built after 2001 should be able to easily go 7500 miles on even 'dino' oil, much less a good synthetic! I change mine (even using Pennzoil Platinum pure synth) at 7500 just to be safe, but it could easily go 10000 or more and I've done the "Used Oil Analysis" several times just to make me feel good. (for further discussion, see "BITOG" - Bob is the Oil Guy) Maybe cut it in half for the first interval (i.e. do it at 3750 and 7500) just to insure you get all the waste metal out, or at least swap out the oil filter which is much more important in that respect than the oil itself!
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "...Any car built after 2001 should be able to easily go 7500 miles on even 'dino' oil, ... for further discussion, see 'BITOG' - Bob is the Oil Guy..."

    Perhaps you missed the discussions concensus based on UOAs over at BITOG that conventional motor oils max out at around 5,000 miles? I'm among those who're convinced current conventional motor oils have elliminated the engine protection superiority formerly associated only with full synthetics, but these remarkable conventionals do demonstrate their limitations if pushed beyond 5,000 miles. Finally, there's always the "severe service" disclaimer that automakers can and do use to deny an oil-related engine failure warranty claim, too. For most automakers, "severe service" puts a 3,000 mile cap on oil and filter change intervals under applicable operating conditions.
  • ratledgeratledge Charleston county, South CarolinaMember Posts: 233
    True - if you live in a "Severe" area, which is generally defined as any area that gets snow or rain more than 3 months per year, on a non-paved road, etc. - you need to follow the rules and stick to the 3750 mile service interval.

    I have read the threads about 'dino' oils maxing out at 5K miles, but - as in every discussion on BITOG, I agree with the side that says it is just a way to keep you changing your oil like it was "your father's Oldsmobile". Of course, there are cheap oils out there that just don't meet the latest specs, even though certain ones say they do... In general, any car manufactured in the '02 or later year should be able to easily go 7500 miles without an oil change. Of course, I'm not going to sit here and tell everyone that they can ignore the manufacturers' recommendations and file a claim for damages if you don't.

    Even running a full synth, I still change my oil every 7500 miles, though I feel sure it would be fine at 10K, as well. Heck - you can buy a good full synthetic at Wally World for under $20 for a gallon! Even the one brand that has the most name recognition demands only slightly more and last I looked was selling for about $23.
  • ricwhitericwhite Member Posts: 292

    Even running a full synth, I still change my oil every 7500 miles, though I feel sure it would be fine at 10K, as well.

    When I was at the Hyundai Service Dept getting my first oil change, I requested "full synthetic" (which they didn't stock and had to get), but the service manager walked in and asked me what interval I was planning on using for the full synthetic. I told him probably 5,000-6,000 miles (and I live in a "severe weather" area [Utah]).

    He told me that would be okay, but I could go 7,500 miles if needed. He said there's plenty of protection for 7,500 mile intervals even in Utah. I was a little surprised since I expected him to WANT me to come more frequently so I would spend more money. But he seemed pretty honest. We talked quite a bit more, and he told me (and even drew pictures) about the differences between standard and synthetic oils. He seemed to know what he was talking about.

    So, 7500 miles seems fine especially considering that the "experts" are saying so.
  • ratledgeratledge Charleston county, South CarolinaMember Posts: 233
    Great to know! I always have a gallon plus a couple of spare quarts of my favorite lubricant in the trunk of my vehicle, anyway - so I just have them use mine (and make sure they don't charge me for it!) and that seems to be OK with them.

    Personally, I just like the newer Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 in both my vehicles, but for the Azera of course you would go to 5W20 under almost all cirumstances. PP has a great, quiet (5W30 is quieter than 10W30, which really doesn't make good sense, but several others have noted the same) lube. I'd go that way over M1 any day... Everyone can refer to BITOG for further discussions of oil and related self-service items, but I just like the Pure One filters for both oil and air. They are much better than the ones the OEMs use and cost about the same if you buy them yourself from your local auto parts store.

    OK - we'll cut this OT discussion before Pat calls us down, now!
  • ratledgeratledge Charleston county, South CarolinaMember Posts: 233
    I noticed that if you download the "Owners Manual" from the Hyundai web-site, it sends you the 3.3L engine version - might be because of the VIN I used to register for the site, I suppose; but in any case, recommended OCI is 15,000KM which is roughly 9600 miles or 12 months and under 'severe' service conditions, the OCI is 7500KM or roughly 4800 miles (or 6 months). Intersting, eh? I guess everywhere except here in the states they don't fight the "3000 mile" OCI... 5W20 SJ, SL or better is "all temperature" weight recommendation.
  • windycity7windycity7 Member Posts: 24
    does anyone know if all the services have to be done to keep the warranty in service? do they have to be done at Hyundai?
    first oil change $33 (after $5 coupon)
    7500 service is going to be $80 (said they rotate the wheels and this svc is impt for safety).
    Do I need to keep going to Hyundai?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Hyundai is no different than any other automaker in this regard. All automakers are required by federal law in the U.S. to accept outsourced servicing as an acceptable substitute for dealership servicing as part of the Moss-Magnuson Consumer Protection Act enacted by Congress over a decade ago. ALL the services defined in the vehicle maintenance charts of your owner's manual HAVE to be performed at or close to the time/mileage (whichever comes first) intervals listed to avoid warranty hassles. Note that I indicated the owner's manual - NOT the self-serving, glitzy, four color lithographed, coupon flyers that all dealerships send out monthly and pad with extra revenue-generating makework "services". Regardless what your dealer's service writer may have indicated, you do NOT have to have routine servicing performed by a Hyundai dealer's service department in order to keep your Hyundai warranty validated.* If you have a trusted service facility you wish to continue using, take your owner's manual along and instruct that facility follow the maintenance charts for the accumulated mileage on your car. Then keep your itemized receipts in a safe place to present to the dealership in the event you need warranty work performed in case the dealership demands evidence of timely service. If you prefer to service your car yourself, keep receipts for materials (oil, ATF, oil and air filters, etc.) and keep a legible handwritten log of what you did and the date you did it. Your log and receipts for self service are also perfectly acceptable and can be presented in court if necessary. Don't let these materials out of your sight if the dealership's people demand to inspect them (it's their right). If your receipts and logged procedures were conveniently "lost" during copying, you'd be in a pickle. By the way, periodic tire rotations are intended to help equalize tire wear over time. Though a reasonably good longevity idea, your dealer's gratuitous reference to "safety" really translates to contributing to their bottom line, not your continued good health.

    *Here's where the matter can get sticky. Legal warranties can only be issued by the product manufacturer. So-called extended warranties purchased through the dealership may or may not be issued by the automaker. Those that aren't are really extended service contracts - literally insurance policies to provide financial protection in the event of catastrophic component failure loss. As such, they're not covered under Moss-Magnuson. If such an extended service contract specifies dealership servicing and/or genuine automaker replacement service parts and fluids, you're stuck if you wish to keep it in force. The use of even the "wrong" brand of motor oil, windshield washer fluid, or aftermarket brand windshield wiper inserts can cancel your coverage. Picayune? Your betcha. Legal, too, and specifically written as a "gotcha" designed to catch the unwary. Even though the first ten years/one-hundred thousan miles is under Hyundai, with all the Moss-Magnuson rights intact, after that coverage ends, prior service outside a Hyundai dealership could well be denied if even just one service took place at an independent shop - regardless whether before or after Hyundai's coverage ended. If you bought an extended warranty find out NOW whether it was issued by Hyundai or a third party. READ your Azera's supplemental warranty booklet - Hyundai didn't pack it in your documents folder out of the goodness of their heart. They did so because they were required to do so under Moss-Magnuson. It's up to YOU to know and understand your rights. Also familiarize yourself with the maintenance schedule charts in your owner's manual.
  • bryan200kbryan200k Member Posts: 64
    I usually take my cars to a "quick lube" place close my house, which has always given me great service. I like going there because I can go when it suits me and not when it suits the dealership's service department.

    The Hyundai dealership in my town told me that I don't 'have to' get my service done at their service department. As long as I stay within the manual's recommended service timeline, and keep my receipts (from other shops), then I should be covered.

    Having said that... this local dealership offers something they call "Dealership for Life". Any car I buy from them, as long as I own it, I get free oil changes, free tire rotation (with every other oil change), free car wash (once a month), and their own lifetime warranty on the powertrain.

    For me... a very enticing incentive for me to buy my next vehicle from them.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    Hi Ray, is it my old friend from the Hyundai Owner's Website that disappeared? I traded my XG350L for a new Azera Limited with the ultimate package. I really love the car. I do plan to change the oil at around every 3000 miles. It was cheap insurance on my XG and has been on our 99 Jeep Cherokee still running strong with 85K miles on it. An oil change is a lot cheaper than repairs down the road. I drove the XG until it had 80K miles on it and we got interested in the Azera when it was first announced. We managed to get a great deal at the "servicing" dealer that I switched to after buying the XG. We bought the car at invoice minus the 1000 rebate from Hyundai, the $500 owner's loyalty program and a $200 internet rebate. I got a very fair trade in value for my XG because the dealer knew the service history. Like the one oil company commercial says, "you can pay me now or pay me later". I'd rather pay now.
    I miss the interchanges on the Hyundai owners website and your wisdom. If you remember me please give me a holler, or a response to my post. I'll be glad to give you my email address.
    By the way I have 1000 miles on the new Azera and I'm consitently getting between 20 and 21 mpg in the city. I haven't had it on a trip yet. :)
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    My dealer does an oil change for $9.95 with a car wash included. In fact I can drive to the dealer and get a free car wash anytime I want. Other dealers in my area don't do the oil changes at this price nor do they offer a free wash. Shop around for dealer service prices.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Yo, Phil! Yep, it's me - I migrated over here to resume my usual mischief after the mods at the Hyundai Owners site decided to take it down. Congratulations on your new Azera and the deal you got on it. How's the tranny shift quality on your new ride? I'm still a year to a year and a half away from any serious consideration for a new car, but I read several forums here at Edmunds (and harass as allowed...) on a daily basis. (My, but didn't we all have some interesting "exchanges" over at the old Hyundai Qwners site? Talk about "freedom of expression"! ;))
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    Hi Ray. Good to find you again! Yep,we did have some fun over at the old Hyundai Owner's website. I was sorry to find it gone.
    The tranny on the new Azera is a big improvement over the XG. It's very smooth thus far and overall the car is fantastic. I wanted to buy one this year because I was afraid there could be a price increase as people learn about Hyundai's quality improvments. Complaints on the new car? I miss the fold down mirrors but didn't really use them that much. I haven't found anything to complain about so I won't. I'm still breaking it in so I haven't really tried out all those horses yet but the car does move and I'm getting about the same gas mileage as I got with the XG.
    Good to hear from you. Perhaps we can get some of our old Forum people over here, but only some of them if ya know what I mean. ;)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    I still chuckle when I think of our old "buddy", kiho, and his incessant insistance that KIA was not a division of Hyundai until you shut him down with your legenday quip:


    He never posted again as far as I know. If the Edmunds forums are a British gentlemen's club, the old owners forum was Dodge City, KS, circa 1870.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I forgot that quip Ray. Thanks for reminding me. I mostly remember Snotty and his efforts to inflame everyone on the board. Dodge City is a pretty good comparison but we did get some good exchanges of ideas and it was fun.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    Has anyone noticed on their Azera that what seems to be more brake pedal pressure is required than seems typical with power assisted brakes? It may just be my car or it may just be getting used to it. It feels like there might be air in the brake lines or the power assist isn't working as it should. I'll be taking it to the dealer for an oil change soon and have them check it out. I just wondered if anyone else noticed this on their Azera. I appreciate any feedback.
  • mechanic80mechanic80 Member Posts: 122
    The brake pedal feel is different on the Azera because of the brake assist features. I too noticed a much higher resistance in the pedal in a "close to emergency" stop. However, while on wet pavement and rounding a blind curve in the freeway the car went from 60 to 0 faster than 0 to 60. I actually got light headed when the blood rushed to the front of my (ever increasing) forehead!
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    Thanks for the information. It takes a little getting used to. I did adjust the adjustable pedal closer to the floor and I found that to "feel" better. It's good to know that the 60 to 0 time is even better than the 0 to 60. Stopping is an important thing. I know what you mean about the forehead getting larger with age. :)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    And here I had previously bought into the myth of a receding hairline...
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    Ray, I can't believe that you bought that myth of the receding hairline. Nine out of ten medical experts say that your forehead gets larger with age. The other one is bald. :)
  • maddawg46maddawg46 Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased an Azera. I usually do my own mainteneace. Where the heck is the oil filter?? The owners manual doesn't show where it is or how to get to it. I haven't jacked the car up yet because I'm not ready to do it. Is it worth doing myself?
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    My understanding is the oil filter is located on the top of the engine, under the cover. You remove the 6 screws that hold it in place, then loosed the top of the filter which must allow the oil to drain back into the engine (and out through the bottom drain.) You replace the filter Cartridge (not a spin-on) and gaskets, which are provided in the filter box, tighten and fill the engine as normal. It is supposed to be easy. Since our Azera has only 1500 miles, I haven't yet done the oil change.

    BTW, there are no aftermarket filters available last time I checked, so you are required to go to the dealer. There is a seller on Ebay that has them for sale in lots of 5 or 10. I have bought from him and these are factory parts and they were shipped quickly.

    I will wait until 5000 miles and then change oil to Mobil 1 SyperSyn and a new filter.
    Good luck
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "BTW, there are no aftermarket filters available last time I checked, so you are required to go to the dealer."

    Purolator L35610. ;) Check autoparts retailers who carry Purolator. If they don't have that number in stock, they can certainly order it for you.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    Has anyone purchased the Hyundai ESP plan? If so, which plan did you purchase and what was the price? Thanks :confuse:
  • tomscartomscar Member Posts: 1
    My mirrors no longer tilt down when putting the car in reverse. The manual tells how to use this opition, but my dealer is now telling me this isn't an opition on the Azera? Does anyone's else's mirrors work and how can I get mine to work? Have done everything the manual tells me to do.
  • dgxnavydgxnavy Member Posts: 10
    My mirrors don't go down when in reverse either. I haven't seen anywhere in the manual where is says that it does.
    This is a feature that I am used to and would like it if I can find out if it can be done. Anyone with this info, please respond. ;)
  • sundevilssundevils Member Posts: 100
    This is not a feature of the Azera (any trim).
  • dgxnavydgxnavy Member Posts: 10
    Thanks, i didn'y think so. :)
  • dgxnavydgxnavy Member Posts: 10
    Hi again,

    I know that this is a nice feature to have, however, it isn't the end of the world. I have been driving since I was 14 and am now 77, so I have been driving before automatic transmissions, air conditioning,and so on.

    What I have been doing is when I need to see behind me when backing up to park, is to use the electric control to lower the mirror and when through I just push my memory button.


  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    Today while I was running a local errand a young boy ran out in front of me and I had to mash the brake pedal to the floor. I stopped short of the lad which was good news. The bad news was that the brake pedal "feel" changed completely to more like traditional power brakes. However, the brake pedal did not return to it's normal position and the brakes were actually sticking. I had to pull the pedal up with my toe to get the car back home which was only a few miles. The brakes were extremely hot when I got the car home. I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow to see if they are open on Labor Day and probably request that they send a tow truck to take the car in since I don't want to risk warped rotors or excessive heat damamge to the pads or rotors. I'll post again when the issue is resolved. It feels like a problem with the master cylinder but with all the new electronics my guessing is probably wrong. Thank goodness this happened close to home since when we had been on a road trip and returned yesterday.
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    Unless something is mechanically wrong with your brakes, no matter how hard you had to stomp on them, they should return to normal setting afterward. I doubt you would have warped a rotor in one stop.

    You are taking the best precaution: have the dealer check it out. If they tell you it all checks out, but it doesn't feel right to you, try another dealer.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    It wasn't the one stop that concerns me. It was the fact that the braks did not release unless I pulled the pedal up with me foot driving the two miles home. The brakes were really hot to the point of the wheels being too hot to touch and the smell of the heat. I suspect the problem is in the ECS system. The car goes to the dealer tomorrow. I'll kepp everyone posted. The dealer I go to is very good about service. I'm trying to determine whether to attempt to drive the car to the dealer or have it towed on a trailer. :confuse:
    I still like the car and expect it is just a wrinkle that will be ironed out.
  • jveneziajvenezia Member Posts: 85
    You can get an OEM filter kit (core, filter element, large and small o-rings) for $11.29 at Parts Train. Look in the Engine Mechanical section for the 2006 Azera.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    To update everyone on my brake problem I wanted to post right away that I took the car to the dealer today and they checked everything thoroughly and thanked me for coming in because they and Hyundai want to know if there are any issues with the Azera.
    I had not even started the engine on the car since I got it back home on Sunday. The dealer was closed for Labor Day. I thought I would have to have the car towed in because all of the calipers were sticking on Sunday after my panic stop to avoid a young boy.
    Today I decided to start the engine and back the car out before I called a tow truck or the dealer. The brakes were functioning okay so I drove around the subdivision and the brake pedal actually felt better than it ever has. I thought it wise to take it to my servicing dealer who provides excellent service. No codes were stored and all of the calipers were communicating properly with the master cyliner and the ABS and ECS.
    I thought about what happened before the problem showed up on Sunday after the panic stop and remember I took the car through the car was with an underbody flush. I wondering if perhaps something got wet. It may have also been just a fluke.
    In any event I am very pleased with the great service and still a happy Azera owner. :)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Maybe find an unused parking lot on a clear, dry day and try a practice "panic stop" to verify proper operation?
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    Hi Ray. I was hoping to get your input on this. I did try a few simulated panic stops this morning and could not re-create the issue. The dealer had me wait until their technician who has been to the "Azera School" and he drove the car and also tried to simulate the problem. I think the next time the car needs washing I'll try again to see if perhaps high pressure water spray could have been a factor. The oddest part of this whole thing is that the brake pedal did not "feel right" before this incident and now it feels exactly like it should. Before it seemed to require to much pressure and too much pedal travel for power assisted brakes.
    If you have any other ideas, Ray, I'd like to hear them.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "If you have any other ideas, Ray, I'd like to hear them." ((

    Well, one PWEG (pure wild-eyed guess) would be a mildly binding molding irregularity in a nylon, delryn, or teflon brake pedal linkage bushing that your panic stop finally dislodged? :confuse:
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    More news! I was driving the car today and the "ESC OFF" light came on while I was sitting it stop and go traffic. I was only about a mile from home but the calipers started sticking again and the brakes were excessively hot by the time I got home. I think this is an electrical issue or a problem with the ESC module. Back to the dealer tomorrow I suppose. Hopefully this event registered a code.
  • americanamerican Member Posts: 16
    i live in delaware county,pa. what dealer in the area has the best service record.doed hyundai keep track of their dealers servicw? :confuse: :confuse:
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "More news ... the calipers started sticking again and the brakes were excessively hot by the time I got home..." ((

    Not good. Sounds like there's definitely something wrong in a system you never want something wrong in. Don't settle for platitudes. Codes or no codes, your car's braking problem needs to be addressed by someone who knows this system and isn't afraid of soldiering through some deductive reasoning.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    That's my take on this situation too Ray. There is definitely a problem and brakes and steering are the two things I take very very seriously. I'm heading back to the dealer today and telling them they need to find the problem even it they need to keep the car a few days and find out what it is.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I took the car to the dealer today and they still have it. It turns out my Viper Alarm installed by Audio Express had a component "zip tied" to the brake pedal causeing the brakes to stick. I am advised I probably should have new rotors and brake pads installed because of the heat generated by the poor installation. Audio Express has sent a technician to the dealer because I have demanded they pay for the work.
    I'm glad to know the source of the problem has been found and has nothing to do with Hyundai.
    I would avoid Viper Alarms and Audio Express completely. This Viper Alarm was installed at an "authorized" dealer which is the only way to get the Viper Warranty. Obviously the Viper authorized dealers may not know what they are doing. :mad:
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    After the dealer called to tell me that my aftermarket alarm that was causing my brake problem I got on the telephone and talked to Viper Alarms parent company Directed Electronics and sicked them on Audio Express. Audio Express sent two of their technicians to the dealer to check the installation and even moved the module with the dealers permission. They called to tell me that the dealer told them they were not the cause of of the problem. The dealer did not call back. I asked for a letter from Audio Express and they told me they would be getting one from the dealer and would give me a copy. It should be interesting tomorrow to see what the dealer tells me. All I want is this issue resolved. I really don't think the rotors are warped or new pads are needed. There is no vibration from the rotors and this problem hasn't been going on long enough to wear out the pads. I'll keep everyone posted on this epic adventure. :confuse:
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    pahefner, interesting how stories get to the pointing fingers and he said-she said level in a hurry. No one wants to admit they made a mistake.

    Please keep the board updated on what the ultimate solution is to the braking issue
This discussion has been closed.