Hyundai Azera Service

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Comments

  • jaymagicjaymagic Member Posts: 309
    It seems most of us have had a least one occasion where the service department had no clue or worse regarding our Azera's. As I have said, my particular dealer in Denver has been very good about getting better regarding Azera's
  • jaymagicjaymagic Member Posts: 309
    It seems most of us have had a least one occasion where the service department had no clue or worse regarding our Azera's. As I have said, my particular dealer in Denver has been very good about getting better regarding Azera's. I have no complaints about their attitude or willingness to try. Their production knowledge, at least as of six months or a year ago, is another story, but they have always made the effort to get the right answer and resolve whatever issue I have had. Now, from some Azzy owner acquaintances and my experience, they appear to be offering solid service support to Azera owners, on the rare occasion when an issue does crop up. I would hope that this is happening at other Hyundai dealerships.

    My first theory is that there isn't the number of Hyundai dealers versus other makes like Toyota so some dealers can get away with being less responsive, simply because they are virtually the only game in town.

    Other dealers, like mine, I think did not do as well with the Azera initially because they see so relatively few of them to work on, and the mechanics and service department heads simply didn't see the volume to get experienced like they might dealing with Sonata's and Santa Fe's. I know mine had gotten much better and I assume it is because they are now familiar with the Azera.

    But, reading the posts, it still seems to me that there are still too many in the first category, those that don't have to care. I am hopeful that as Hyundai become better known, with more sales, that more dealerships will open and force the ones that have less than great customer service to step up to keep up.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,601
    I have found that the outside temp displays several degrees warmer (throughout the year) until I've driven about 2 miles.

    A friend's Mercury Mountaineer did the same thing.
  • usfarbuo1usfarbuo1 Member Posts: 35
    Mine does the same thing except it ALWAYS shows 4 or 5 degrees higher. But thanks for the input.
  • scbobscbob Member Posts: 167
    Personally I don't understand how it works considering the car is moving or is sitting in the sun or whatever.
    A recent newspaper story showed five temperature signs in this city. No two were the same and range was 87-94, with one reading 236.
    Mine sometimes matches the signs I pass and sometimes doesn't.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    Grayfox,I noticed the Dean Team has moved it's entire Hyundai dealership to the old Chrysler dealer on Manchester Road. I won't be taking my car there for service but it will be interesting to hear if they show any improvement.

    The Dean Team is about 3 miles from my house and I drive approximately 16 miles to get my car serviced at Suntrup Hyundai.
  • cobrazeracobrazera Member Posts: 352
    I don't know where the Azera temp. sensor is at, but other cars had them somewhere under the car.
    I have had many cars with these temp indicators and found all of them to read higher than the weatherguy or the bank sign says. I assume the pavement gets hotter than other locations.
  • grayfoxgrayfox Member Posts: 166
    The Temperature Sensor is behind the grille about in the middle. It fastens with one bolt and one electrical connector. There is a Service Bulletin that authorizes these sensors to be changed for a later unit.
    You can see it easily using a flashlight.
  • usfarbuo1usfarbuo1 Member Posts: 35
    Thanks for the info. Maybe it has something to do with being close to the hot engine.
  • cdmuilecdmuile Member Posts: 152
    Mine has always read 3 to 4 degrees high. The dealer said this was within the tolerance. I can live with that. Who determines and where is the ambient temperature measured? Around 95 is hot and around 5 below is cold. The wonder that the measuring device can come this close. Remember, it's not how well the pig dances, it's not that the pig can dance at all.
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    Salesman said I should change every 5000 miles. Book says 7500.What is it?
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    When I first started out, I was changing mine every 3500-4000 miles. Now I'm doing it between 4500-5000. Personally, I don't feel comfortable running 7500 miles on oil...even if it is synthetic (Castrol Syntech is what I use in mine).

    I guess it boils down to what you feel comfortable with as a driver. Just make sure you keep records of your oil changes if you don't let the dealer do it. In case you're wondering, not letting the dealer do it does NOT void your warranty. I've been changing my own oil since day one and I just keep my receipts when I buy oil and filters and keep a log of each oil change. ;)
  • scbobscbob Member Posts: 167
    Car dealers are in it to make money, so they want to change oil as often as possible. The local Toyota dealers say change theirs at 3,000 miles even though manuals all say 5,000-7,500. Ford dealer said the same about his vehicles.
    Personally, I change it at 5,000 because it is easier to keep track of and I really don't like going 7,500 miles. On the other hand, it should be changed every six months even it only has 2,000 miles on it. Oil will die from age alone.
  • usfarbuo1usfarbuo1 Member Posts: 35
    I had a very good mechanic tell me once when I asked him if oil changes should be every 3,000, 5,000, or 7,500 miles and he told me "they made the car and they wrote the book so follow thei instructions". In your case you have it in writing in their own manual that you change the oil every 7,500 miles unless conditions warrant changes sooner. Personally, I do it somewhere between 3,500 and 5,ooo miles
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    The typical "severe service interval" seems to be about 3500 miles, or twice as frequently as the book calls for, which is the same as my '90 Honda Accord calls for. I know it's probably not really necessary, but as I keep a car "forever" I adhere to the 3500 mile changes.

    Whatever the benefit, my old Honda uses less than 1/4 quart between changes and currently has 247,000 miles on an engine that's never been torn down... :shades:
  • cobrazeracobrazera Member Posts: 352
    Oils have gotten a lot better since the owners manual for your '90 Accord was written. In addition to the higher mileage recommendations, the new oils do not oxidize as quickly, hence the time recommendation on oil changes has gone from three months to six months.
    I use synthetic oil in my low mileage ( less than 3000 miles per year ) Cobra, and change it only once a year because synthetic oxidizes even less.
    Congrats on the terrific value from your Honda.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Uses less than 1/4 quart between changes??? The oil usage in my '02 Sonata was minimal, hardly noticeable at all to be honest. Even after 4 years and 100K miles. I was changing the oil in that car every 3K miles and I was using Castrol Syntec Blend.
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    "Uses less than 1/4 quart between changes??? The oil usage in my '02 Sonata was minimal, hardly noticeable at all to be honest. Even after 4 years and 100K miles. I was changing the oil in that car every 3K miles and I was using Castrol Syntec Blend."

    Did I mention that my modestly high-milage Accord is nearly 18 years old and hauled (over a few months' time) 8 U-Haul trailer-loads of stuff, 1170 miles from San Antonio to my new place in Florida?... :shades:
  • roadkingtc88roadkingtc88 Member Posts: 21
    While driving down the interstate I4 in Orlando, I heard a bad scraping sound coming from under my car. I immediately pulled off to the side, got out, and looked under the passenger side to find the front of the splash shield hanging down, but not exactly touching the ground. The two plastic mounting points holding the front of the shield to the body had cracked, allowing the front part to dip down, and scraping would occur as the incoming air stream forced the shield down to contact the highway. It would sort of “bounce” depending on how fast you were going. Lying on my side (along the interstate) I managed to push it up, and it seemed to stick in that position, enough to get me home.

    At home I raised the car as far as I could & applied a temporary “patch” of duct tape. I got an appointment at my local dealer, but only 4 days in the future. In these 4 days, the temporary “patch” came undone, and the limp home this time severly damaged the shield while slowly going over a speed bump. I let the car set the weekend until my appointment.

    I was told by the Service Manager, that the part would NOT be covered under warranty since it was damaged, and a new one would have to be ordered. I had to pay for the replacement part and labor to remove it. Hyundai Consumer Support stood by the dealer's decision, but did allow me to submit a "goodwill" request.

    Question is "How could such a part failure ever NOT result in severe damage" ???

    I have not yet heard back from Hyundai, but it's only been 2 days.

    Lesson learned - don't try to help - just take it in right away.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE: 306
    Perhaps you would have been better off to have called Hyundai Roadside Assistance. and have let them deal with the problem from the beginning.
  • theblackholetheblackhole Member Posts: 62
    Very Discouraging that this would bot be covered by Hyundai in a no questions asked manner. Good luck with the "goodwill" request.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Honestly, it's kinda hard to side with you on this one. I mean...you're talking about a part that obviously was fine when you bought the car and up until you heard it scraping the ground. You must've unknowingly rolled over something that hit the shield and cracked it. In which case...it wouldn't be covered under warranty because it wasn't a manufacturer's defect. That is how the service dept. is going to look at it.

    Of course, you will never remember rolling over anything that could have possibly created this problem. However, it is possible a rock could bounce up and strike the shield in such a way that it would crack it and cause it to become loose as it did.

    Are you truly shocked that this wouldn't be covered by the warranty???
  • roadkingtc88roadkingtc88 Member Posts: 21
    No, of course I didn't "roll" over anything. there are 2 bolts at the front that hold it up. The plastic is conical in shape where they fasten, and both broke "up in" the cone. Other than that, there was no evidence of damage. Possible heat, vibration, or thin plastic in that area.

    Yes, I could have called roadside assistance, but it's Florida, 96 degrees, and you're on the side of a busy interstate. Do you wait hours for someone to come, or see what you can do to at least get off a dangerous highway? I pushed it up & it wedged stuck, enough to get me home. It came back down again as I entered the street I live on.

    My purpose in writing was to remind everyone of the "damaged part" excuse.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    The only way you'll be able to determine if it broke due to thin plastic at the point of the break is to compare it to the new piece when it comes in. Like I said, you would never remember rolling over anything that could have done it (if that were the case). Personally, I think a rock or some other hard object bounce up from the road surface and struck it in such a way that it broke where it did.

    I agree...if it's something you can generally fix and be on your way...why wait and be stuck on the side of the road. Your vehicle wasn't incapacitated, you were just inconvenienced.
  • hjc1hjc1 Member Posts: 183
    I'll bet that the damage was caused by parking lot concrete stops. I know that the air dam (splash shield) is very low and I have scraped that part several times. It seems that all new cars have the same problem.
  • roadkingtc88roadkingtc88 Member Posts: 21
    No, this sets far back of the distance that the concrete stop can reach, and higher than the air dam.
  • stoshbstoshb Member Posts: 5
    Jay,

    I live in Englewood, Colorado and just purchased an Azera Ltd. Would you mind sharing the name of the service department you use?

    Thanx in advance.

    Stan Brown
  • msazzyindcmsazzyindc Member Posts: 118
    I ran up on one of those darn concrete stops and was SOOO embarrassed, people were looking at me like "look at this WOMAN" :blush: I am use to driving a SUV so its something I have to adjust to but now I know I have all kinds of scrapes on the paint under there.

    Surprised the board is still alive *waving* Hi guys!
  • jaymagicjaymagic Member Posts: 309
    Hi, I have been going to Arapahoe Hyundai, since I got an XG back in 2002. In fact, I have a 15,000 mile service coming up on my Azera this coming Friday. I will take my own oil (synthetic) and have them do just the basic recommended service. I have a good friend who works as a mechanic in a private garage and I use him on my Explorer and would recommended him for virtually any problem. But, I have found Arapahoe Hyundai to be very competent (most of the time) and reasonably price competitive, so I have used them on my Hyundai's If you do run into a problem with the service department on an issue, then best thing I have found about Arapahoe Hyundai, is that they will work with you (not against you) to get the problem solved.

    Hope you are enjoying your Azera, I envy the XM capability. It is the only thing I really wish I had.

    Jay Swearingen
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    My Audi A6 was much lower and I did considerable damage to it. I can move the Azera closer to the concrete curb, but not all the way over. you still have to be careful
  • jaymagicjaymagic Member Posts: 309
    Did 15K service today. Took at little over an hour. Still waiting on back ordered parts for the rear side molding strips (TSB). Should be in, about 2 weeks. Didn't really notice anything until I saw the TSB. Not really much of a noticeable problem on mine, but hey if its free....

    I brought my own Mobile 1 oil ($24/6 quarts). The service department did the oil and filter change, actual road test, changed the cabin air filter (my specific request) checked the fluids, belts, etc. Checked and set my tire pressure at 36 psi (as requested by me), washed the car n/c. It all took a little over an hour -- $91.00. Its the cabin air filter that really rings up the price $38 plus about 15 min. for installation. $91 was about half parts/half time.

    So far, I have not had a single problem that needed to be fixed.
  • msazzyindcmsazzyindc Member Posts: 118
    Where do I check for TSB's? I want to make sure "she" is up to par.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Hey Jaymagic...share the knowledge! What's the issue with the rear side molding strips???

    Oh yeah...Hey Msazzyindc! ;)
  • usfarbuo1usfarbuo1 Member Posts: 35
    Is there any special reason you had them put 36psi in your tires?
  • jaymagicjaymagic Member Posts: 309
    On some 07 Azera's the chrome piece that goes in the side molding strip along the side is not perfectly flat (as it gets to the back of the strip, just bends up -- very slightly). Apparently several have it. When I looked at mine, both sides were so similar, that I thought it was the way it was supposed to be. It is NOT a very obvious problem. I saw someone else mention it in one of the Azera forums, so I asked the dealer about it and he said he would order the strips in. Truly, if I had not read about it, I would not have thought to ever raise the issue, it is that minor.
  • jaymagicjaymagic Member Posts: 309
    Yes, I tend to drive a decent amount at or above 75 (speed limit on many Colorado Interstates) and wanted a little more air pressure (as recommended by Michelin). Also, you get slightly better mileage with a little higher pressure and generally a little better handling.

    What you lose is a little bit of cushioning on bumps.
  • msazzyindcmsazzyindc Member Posts: 118
    Hey Allmet :blush: How's tricks? I got the windows on my azzy tinted down in waldof she's looking cute. I'm just waiting to get the window guards and I'll be cooking with grease.
  • usfarbuo1usfarbuo1 Member Posts: 35
    Here in Massachusetts we don't get to go 75 mph usually. We have traffice jams all over the state. However, next time I plan a lengthy trip where highways are involved I might give it a try. Thanks.
  • goldie305goldie305 Member Posts: 14
    Please explain; "He also told me to release the key as soon as I saw the tach needle begin to move."
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE: 332
    I assume that the service advisor meant that when you noticed the tach needle starting to move the engine was actually running and that you could release the starter. Some drivers have the tendency to keep the starter engaged way too long.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Tricks on my end are good!!! I have seen an Azzy with the side window vents that you are going to get. I must say...I like the look. I too will be adding them. I think I'll do that before I start saving my lunch money up to get the body kit. :blush:

    Well...maybe I'll see you around one of these days!
  • akoni1akoni1 Member Posts: 35
    The service manager told me to start the car. I did and he told me that I held the key too long. You can see the tach dial move even before the dash lights up. As floridabob says. the tach movement indicates that the engine is running. I dont know what harm is done by keeping the key in the on position but I will release as soon as I see the needle move.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    It's not the ON position that does the damage, it's the START position that does the damage. If you keep the key engaged in START for too long, you're engaging the teeth from the starter motor to the fly wheel and they grind. Over time, that causes problems with your engine being able to turn over.

    Once the engine is started, why would you need to keep it engaged in START anyway??? :confuse:
  • akoni1akoni1 Member Posts: 35
    It's not yhat I kept it START, I was just a little slow in releasing the key.
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    If your engine has started and you rev it up and you still have the key held in START, the running engine likely might over-rev the starter to the point of starter damage...
  • derrelhgreenderrelhgreen Member Posts: 234
    Re: # 338

    Don't feel like the lone Haranger! I've done it myself. :(

    Even re-engaged the starter once because I did not look at the tach and couldn't
    hear or feel that the engine was in fact running. Got "H" from the wife too.

    Trouble is, the engine is simply too smooth and quiet.

    Good advise; I will watch the tach!

    :)
  • scbobscbob Member Posts: 167
    I tried to start mine three times and was wondering why it would "grind" but not start until I realized it was already running. A friend was talking as I tried to start it. Quitest car I have ever owned, even at speed.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    to the Tires and Wheels discussion.
  • cdmuilecdmuile Member Posts: 152
    I couldn't agree more. I've owned everything from Hillmans to Jaguars with Cads and Mercedes in between and have never had an engine so quiet. I bought the Azzie in March of 06. Twice in the first week of ownership, I twisted the key when the engine was already running. Very embarassing!!!WATCH THE TACH.
  • scbobscbob Member Posts: 167
    A Hillman! I dated a girl in high school who drove one. Her father worked at the Ford dealership who took it in on trade.
    Manys the time I had to go get her because her car died.
    Ah, the 60's.
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