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Hyundai Azera Service
I just received my first mailing with coupons from my dealer, North County Hyundai in Carlsbad, CA.
Oil change = 34.95 (regular price not provided)
7,500 service = 49.95 (regular price = 69.95)
15,000 service = 179.95 (regular price = 199.95)
30,000 service = 175.95, 290.95, or 559.95 (the later two include one or more of the biggest service department profit items: cooling system flush, transmission flush, fuel induction service)
Bottom line - these prices (even with the coupon) are highway robbery. For those who aren't do-it-yourself (or who aren't allowed due to HOA restrictions on doing car repairs at your home) where are people taking their cars for service?
Oil change = 34.95 (regular price not provided)
7,500 service = 49.95 (regular price = 69.95)
15,000 service = 179.95 (regular price = 199.95)
30,000 service = 175.95, 290.95, or 559.95 (the later two include one or more of the biggest service department profit items: cooling system flush, transmission flush, fuel induction service)
Bottom line - these prices (even with the coupon) are highway robbery. For those who aren't do-it-yourself (or who aren't allowed due to HOA restrictions on doing car repairs at your home) where are people taking their cars for service?
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Or how about something really important like how to get the logo off those readily available Azera oil filters. :P
ducking and running
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Now listen up, I had them check the alignment, four wheel, because I thought it was a little out.
Well the printout came back from the tech, ALL FOUR corners were out and needed to be adjusted, not alot, just a tweak here and there. The cost of this, zip, nadda, freebe. Why???
Because it's covered under the 12/12 adjustment warranty and yes, you do have to tell the service person and then they acknowledge that it's a free service.
The 15K service (for just items listed in the owners manual) is $200.
The Azera is full of modern technology components and I would just let the dealer handle the maintenance on it...just waiting for Hyundai to get the factory installed XM satellite radio going and then it will be time to get serious about owning one :shades:
Other sellers are getting upwards of $20 to buy online, plus shipping.
Has anyone performed their own Oil change on the Azera? Any "gotchas" that you can advise the Forum to watch for?
Why would one pay 20 bucks for filter plus shipping for filter alone?
The dealer checks and adds all other fluids and adjusts air in tires at no additional charge.
I believe they even washed the car.
Most every car made always told you to "bring the car in for service" at 1000 miles until a few years ago. Now, the dealer doesn't need to see you until 7500 miles, and that should be a clue for those folks that insist on 3000 mile oil-change intervals: that's your father's Oldsmobile. Any car built after 2001 should be able to easily go 7500 miles on even 'dino' oil, much less a good synthetic! I change mine (even using Pennzoil Platinum pure synth) at 7500 just to be safe, but it could easily go 10000 or more and I've done the "Used Oil Analysis" several times just to make me feel good. (for further discussion, see "BITOG" - Bob is the Oil Guy) Maybe cut it in half for the first interval (i.e. do it at 3750 and 7500) just to insure you get all the waste metal out, or at least swap out the oil filter which is much more important in that respect than the oil itself!
Perhaps you missed the discussions concensus based on UOAs over at BITOG that conventional motor oils max out at around 5,000 miles? I'm among those who're convinced current conventional motor oils have elliminated the engine protection superiority formerly associated only with full synthetics, but these remarkable conventionals do demonstrate their limitations if pushed beyond 5,000 miles. Finally, there's always the "severe service" disclaimer that automakers can and do use to deny an oil-related engine failure warranty claim, too. For most automakers, "severe service" puts a 3,000 mile cap on oil and filter change intervals under applicable operating conditions.
I have read the threads about 'dino' oils maxing out at 5K miles, but - as in every discussion on BITOG, I agree with the side that says it is just a way to keep you changing your oil like it was "your father's Oldsmobile". Of course, there are cheap oils out there that just don't meet the latest specs, even though certain ones say they do... In general, any car manufactured in the '02 or later year should be able to easily go 7500 miles without an oil change. Of course, I'm not going to sit here and tell everyone that they can ignore the manufacturers' recommendations and file a claim for damages if you don't.
Even running a full synth, I still change my oil every 7500 miles, though I feel sure it would be fine at 10K, as well. Heck - you can buy a good full synthetic at Wally World for under $20 for a gallon! Even the one brand that has the most name recognition demands only slightly more and last I looked was selling for about $23.
Even running a full synth, I still change my oil every 7500 miles, though I feel sure it would be fine at 10K, as well.
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When I was at the Hyundai Service Dept getting my first oil change, I requested "full synthetic" (which they didn't stock and had to get), but the service manager walked in and asked me what interval I was planning on using for the full synthetic. I told him probably 5,000-6,000 miles (and I live in a "severe weather" area [Utah]).
He told me that would be okay, but I could go 7,500 miles if needed. He said there's plenty of protection for 7,500 mile intervals even in Utah. I was a little surprised since I expected him to WANT me to come more frequently so I would spend more money. But he seemed pretty honest. We talked quite a bit more, and he told me (and even drew pictures) about the differences between standard and synthetic oils. He seemed to know what he was talking about.
So, 7500 miles seems fine especially considering that the "experts" are saying so.
Personally, I just like the newer Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 in both my vehicles, but for the Azera of course you would go to 5W20 under almost all cirumstances. PP has a great, quiet (5W30 is quieter than 10W30, which really doesn't make good sense, but several others have noted the same) lube. I'd go that way over M1 any day... Everyone can refer to BITOG for further discussions of oil and related self-service items, but I just like the Pure One filters for both oil and air. They are much better than the ones the OEMs use and cost about the same if you buy them yourself from your local auto parts store.
OK - we'll cut this OT discussion before Pat calls us down, now!
first oil change $33 (after $5 coupon)
7500 service is going to be $80 (said they rotate the wheels and this svc is impt for safety).
Do I need to keep going to Hyundai?
*Here's where the matter can get sticky. Legal warranties can only be issued by the product manufacturer. So-called extended warranties purchased through the dealership may or may not be issued by the automaker. Those that aren't are really extended service contracts - literally insurance policies to provide financial protection in the event of catastrophic component failure loss. As such, they're not covered under Moss-Magnuson. If such an extended service contract specifies dealership servicing and/or genuine automaker replacement service parts and fluids, you're stuck if you wish to keep it in force. The use of even the "wrong" brand of motor oil, windshield washer fluid, or aftermarket brand windshield wiper inserts can cancel your coverage. Picayune? Your betcha. Legal, too, and specifically written as a "gotcha" designed to catch the unwary. Even though the first ten years/one-hundred thousan miles is under Hyundai, with all the Moss-Magnuson rights intact, after that coverage ends, prior service outside a Hyundai dealership could well be denied if even just one service took place at an independent shop - regardless whether before or after Hyundai's coverage ended. If you bought an extended warranty find out NOW whether it was issued by Hyundai or a third party. READ your Azera's supplemental warranty booklet - Hyundai didn't pack it in your documents folder out of the goodness of their heart. They did so because they were required to do so under Moss-Magnuson. It's up to YOU to know and understand your rights. Also familiarize yourself with the maintenance schedule charts in your owner's manual.
The Hyundai dealership in my town told me that I don't 'have to' get my service done at their service department. As long as I stay within the manual's recommended service timeline, and keep my receipts (from other shops), then I should be covered.
Having said that... this local dealership offers something they call "Dealership for Life". Any car I buy from them, as long as I own it, I get free oil changes, free tire rotation (with every other oil change), free car wash (once a month), and their own lifetime warranty on the powertrain.
For me... a very enticing incentive for me to buy my next vehicle from them.
I miss the interchanges on the Hyundai owners website and your wisdom. If you remember me please give me a holler, or a response to my post. I'll be glad to give you my email address.
By the way I have 1000 miles on the new Azera and I'm consitently getting between 20 and 21 mpg in the city. I haven't had it on a trip yet.
The tranny on the new Azera is a big improvement over the XG. It's very smooth thus far and overall the car is fantastic. I wanted to buy one this year because I was afraid there could be a price increase as people learn about Hyundai's quality improvments. Complaints on the new car? I miss the fold down mirrors but didn't really use them that much. I haven't found anything to complain about so I won't. I'm still breaking it in so I haven't really tried out all those horses yet but the car does move and I'm getting about the same gas mileage as I got with the XG.
Good to hear from you. Perhaps we can get some of our old Forum people over here, but only some of them if ya know what I mean.
Kia
Is
Hyundai
Owned
He never posted again as far as I know. If the Edmunds forums are a British gentlemen's club, the old owners forum was Dodge City, KS, circa 1870.
BTW, there are no aftermarket filters available last time I checked, so you are required to go to the dealer. There is a seller on Ebay that has them for sale in lots of 5 or 10. I have bought from him and these are factory parts and they were shipped quickly.
I will wait until 5000 miles and then change oil to Mobil 1 SyperSyn and a new filter.
Good luck
Purolator L35610.
This is a feature that I am used to and would like it if I can find out if it can be done. Anyone with this info, please respond.
I know that this is a nice feature to have, however, it isn't the end of the world. I have been driving since I was 14 and am now 77, so I have been driving before automatic transmissions, air conditioning,and so on.
What I have been doing is when I need to see behind me when backing up to park, is to use the electric control to lower the mirror and when through I just push my memory button.
Simple.
You are taking the best precaution: have the dealer check it out. If they tell you it all checks out, but it doesn't feel right to you, try another dealer.
I still like the car and expect it is just a wrinkle that will be ironed out.
I had not even started the engine on the car since I got it back home on Sunday. The dealer was closed for Labor Day. I thought I would have to have the car towed in because all of the calipers were sticking on Sunday after my panic stop to avoid a young boy.
Today I decided to start the engine and back the car out before I called a tow truck or the dealer. The brakes were functioning okay so I drove around the subdivision and the brake pedal actually felt better than it ever has. I thought it wise to take it to my servicing dealer who provides excellent service. No codes were stored and all of the calipers were communicating properly with the master cyliner and the ABS and ECS.
I thought about what happened before the problem showed up on Sunday after the panic stop and remember I took the car through the car was with an underbody flush. I wondering if perhaps something got wet. It may have also been just a fluke.
In any event I am very pleased with the great service and still a happy Azera owner.
If you have any other ideas, Ray, I'd like to hear them.
Well, one PWEG (pure wild-eyed guess) would be a mildly binding molding irregularity in a nylon, delryn, or teflon brake pedal linkage bushing that your panic stop finally dislodged? :confuse:
Not good. Sounds like there's definitely something wrong in a system you never want something wrong in. Don't settle for platitudes. Codes or no codes, your car's braking problem needs to be addressed by someone who knows this system and isn't afraid of soldiering through some deductive reasoning.
I'm glad to know the source of the problem has been found and has nothing to do with Hyundai.
I would avoid Viper Alarms and Audio Express completely. This Viper Alarm was installed at an "authorized" dealer which is the only way to get the Viper Warranty. Obviously the Viper authorized dealers may not know what they are doing. :mad:
Please keep the board updated on what the ultimate solution is to the braking issue