Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

driver100

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

Take it off and open it up, and see what you find. Can’t be too complicated a machine.

————————————————-
Normally I would agree with that but @snakeweasel said he tried to turn it with the tool that you insert in the bottom center of the disposal and it turned freely. Given that and he hears it humming it’s more than likely the starter winding of the disposal is bad. There is no fix for that.

But it doesn’t hurt to pull it out and try the tool again and then give it a shake to see if anything falls out. You have to take it out anyway to replace it.

jmonroe

Sometimes giving it a good firm strike with a hammer works!

driver100

DIY question????
We have a front door that is similar to this, a door with windows along the side s and on top.
Every winter, the door swells, and you have to really tug at it to open or close it.
It gets caught on the bottom.
I have screwed in the hinges and that works for a while, but then it loosens up.
Is there a final cure, or as one person told me, you can't fix the frame, you have to replace the whole thing?

stickguy

Shave the door down?

oldfarmer50

graphicguy said:

I don’t know if this pic identifies what year it is. Don’t know if it has a turbo (don’t think so, as it doesn’t have a turbo’s “peakiness”, and if it has a CVT, it is doing a very poor imitation of gear selection/changes as it’s always “Hunting” and never in the right gear/ratio.

Definitely a rental. You can see the bar code. I don’t know what the other rental companies do but that’s the exact one we use. You’ll see the unit number at the top starting usually with 7 or 8 and the last eight digits of the vin at the bottom.

henryn

The GE washing machine is misbehaving again. I found the model number by using my cell phone to take a picture of the back (why do they hide the model number anyway?) Using that to perform a google search led to some better results. The “master reset” that I mentioned before is a real thing (opening and closing the lid 6 times), but usually doesn’t help based on what I read.

Would you believe it’s a software problem? In a washing machine? Unreal.

Here is the service bulletin describing the problem and the fix. And the software update is available, for $77.50 (plus I’m sure taxes and shipping, might as well round off to $100). Which gives me some doubt about just buying a new washer.

stickguy

What a crazy world.

Michaell

I'm waiting to buy a coffee maker with a USB-C port on it .... (or, maybe it's wifi capable)

kyfdx

ab348 said:

If you're a Pirates fan, I'd go to the game tonight since they are playing the Mets, who have completely and suddenly forgotten how to win. Just a pathetic and disgusting fall from grace.

The Mets have the 4th best record in the NL since the ASG, and have lost 10.5 games to the Braves, in the standings.

It's more the Braves than the Mets.

jmonroe1

driver100 said:

DIY question????
We have a front door that is similar to this, a door with windows along the side s and on top.
Every winter, the door swells, and you have to really tug at it to open or close it.
It gets caught on the bottom.
I have screwed in the hinges and that works for a while, but then it loosens up.
Is there a final cure, or as one person told me, you can't fix the frame, you have to replace the whole thing?

————————————————-
If it opens and closes without binding after you tighten the hinge screws there isn’t enough would left in the door jam to hold the screws long enough for a permanent fix. Either stuff some wood slivers into the screw holes (golf tees work too but you have to drill pilot holes in the golf tees. By stuffing wood slivers in the holes, the screws will go into the spaces between the slivers so pilot holes are not necessary) or use longer screws that will go into the framing of the door (usually a 2x4) not just the jam of the door. This usually requires 2 1/2 inch long screws maybe even a 3 inch screw.

I’d try one longer screw in each hinge to see if it reaches the solid wood of the door framing. If that works use longer screws for all the hinge screws. Just make sure the flat head of the screws sit flat in the counter sink of the hinge. I’m pretty sure the screw size is #9 but take a screw to the store to get the right head size.

I’ll bill you later.

jmonroe

jmonroe1

jmonroe1 said:

driver100 said:

DIY question????
We have a front door that is similar to this, a door with windows along the side s and on top.
Every winter, the door swells, and you have to really tug at it to open or close it.
It gets caught on the bottom.
I have screwed in the hinges and that works for a while, but then it loosens up.
Is there a final cure, or as one person told me, you can't fix the frame, you have to replace the whole thing?

————————————————-
If it opens and closes without binding after you tighten the hinge screws there isn’t enough would left in the door jam to hold the screws long enough for a permanent fix. Either stuff some wood slivers into the screw holes (golf tees work too but you have to drill pilot holes in the golf tees. By stuffing wood slivers in the holes, the screws will go into the spaces between the slivers so pilot holes are not necessary) or use longer screws that will go into the framing of the door (usually a 2x4) not just the jam of the door. This usually requires 2 1/2 inch long screws maybe even a 3 inch screw.

I’d try one longer screw in each hinge to see if it reaches the solid wood of the door framing. If that works use longer screws for all the hinge screws. Just make sure the flat head of the screws sit flat in the counter sink of the hinge. I’m pretty sure the screw size is #9 but take a screw to the store to get the right head size.

I’ll bill you later.

jmonroe

jmonroe1 said:

driver100 said:

DIY question????
We have a front door that is similar to this, a door with windows along the side s and on top.
Every winter, the door swells, and you have to really tug at it to open or close it.
It gets caught on the bottom.
I have screwed in the hinges and that works for a while, but then it loosens up.
Is there a final cure, or as one person told me, you can't fix the frame, you have to replace the whole thing?

————————————————-
If it opens and closes without binding after you tighten the hinge screws there isn’t enough would left in the door jam to hold the screws long enough for a permanent fix. Either stuff some wood slivers into the screw holes (golf tees work too but you have to drill pilot holes in the golf tees. By stuffing wood slivers in the holes, the screws will go into the spaces between the slivers so pilot holes are not necessary) or use longer screws that will go into the framing of the door (usually a 2x4) not just the jam of the door. This usually requires 2 1/2 inch long screws maybe even a 3 inch screw.

I’d try one longer screw in each hinge to see if it reaches the solid wood of the door framing. If that works use longer screws for all the hinge screws. Just make sure the flat head of the screws sit flat in the counter sink of the hinge. I’m pretty sure the screw size is #9 but take a screw to the store to get the right head size.

I’ll bill you later.

jmonroe

————————————————-
Forget what I said about longer screws. I looked at the pic and you can’t use longer screws because there is no framing at the hinge area. Framing is only at the sides where the side lights are. You have to stuff the jam with wood and do it that way.

I’m still going to bill you because stuffing the door jam with wood is a permanent fix, just not my preferred method but you don’t have a choice now.

jmonroe

qbrozen

Spotted on I295 in NJ on Monday. Plate cropped out to protect the owner from public ridicule.

And this is my own rebadge job on the Sprinter.

ab348

kyfdx said:

ab348 said:

If you're a Pirates fan, I'd go to the game tonight since they are playing the Mets, who have completely and suddenly forgotten how to win. Just a pathetic and disgusting fall from grace.

The Mets have the 4th best record in the NL since the ASG, and have lost 10.5 games to the Braves, in the standings.

It's more the Braves than the Mets.

No, it's the Mets. 10W/10L in their last 20 including losing 2 of 3 to the hapless Nats and 3 of 4 to the Braves. Scherzer is back on the injured list and Alonso and Lindor both look lost at the plate. The DHs they acquired at the deadline are not much better than those they replaced. As per The Athletic:

"Francisco Lindor is 7-for-43 over the last dozen games. Lindor is not alone with an average like that. Pete Alonso’s 10-for-45, and the DH duo of Daniel Vogelbach and Darin Ruf is a combined 3-for-37 in the last 12 games. Nobody on the Mets has a .300 average over that span. New York is averaging three runs per game over its last dozen contests, a span in which it’s batting .227 with a .293 on-base percentage and .652 OPS."

That doesn't begin to touch on the pitching, which in the last 3 games has allowed 23 runs to the Nats and Pirates.

I can't bear to watch.

ab348

jmonroe1 said:

jmonroe1 said:

driver100 said:

DIY question????
We have a front door that is similar to this, a door with windows along the side s and on top.
Every winter, the door swells, and you have to really tug at it to open or close it.
It gets caught on the bottom.
I have screwed in the hinges and that works for a while, but then it loosens up.
Is there a final cure, or as one person told me, you can't fix the frame, you have to replace the whole thing?

————————————————-
If it opens and closes without binding after you tighten the hinge screws there isn’t enough would left in the door jam to hold the screws long enough for a permanent fix. Either stuff some wood slivers into the screw holes (golf tees work too but you have to drill pilot holes in the golf tees. By stuffing wood slivers in the holes, the screws will go into the spaces between the slivers so pilot holes are not necessary) or use longer screws that will go into the framing of the door (usually a 2x4) not just the jam of the door. This usually requires 2 1/2 inch long screws maybe even a 3 inch screw.

I’d try one longer screw in each hinge to see if it reaches the solid wood of the door framing. If that works use longer screws for all the hinge screws. Just make sure the flat head of the screws sit flat in the counter sink of the hinge. I’m pretty sure the screw size is #9 but take a screw to the store to get the right head size.

I’ll bill you later.

jmonroe

jmonroe1 said:

driver100 said:

DIY question????
We have a front door that is similar to this, a door with windows along the side s and on top.
Every winter, the door swells, and you have to really tug at it to open or close it.
It gets caught on the bottom.
I have screwed in the hinges and that works for a while, but then it loosens up.
Is there a final cure, or as one person told me, you can't fix the frame, you have to replace the whole thing?

————————————————-
If it opens and closes without binding after you tighten the hinge screws there isn’t enough would left in the door jam to hold the screws long enough for a permanent fix. Either stuff some wood slivers into the screw holes (golf tees work too but you have to drill pilot holes in the golf tees. By stuffing wood slivers in the holes, the screws will go into the spaces between the slivers so pilot holes are not necessary) or use longer screws that will go into the framing of the door (usually a 2x4) not just the jam of the door. This usually requires 2 1/2 inch long screws maybe even a 3 inch screw.

I’d try one longer screw in each hinge to see if it reaches the solid wood of the door framing. If that works use longer screws for all the hinge screws. Just make sure the flat head of the screws sit flat in the counter sink of the hinge. I’m pretty sure the screw size is #9 but take a screw to the store to get the right head size.

I’ll bill you later.

jmonroe

————————————————-
Forget what I said about longer screws. I looked at the pic and you can’t use longer screws because there is no framing at the hinge area. Framing is only at the sides where the side lights are. You have to stuff the jam with wood and do it that way.

I think maybe Bob Vila or Norm Abram said to remove the screws from the offending hinge, stuff some wooden toothpicks in the hole with some wood glue and let it dry. Reinstall the screws and it should be good.

stickguy

At least they won game 1 today!

pensfan83

@kyfdx said:
If only you'd have told me yesterday...

In town?

kyfdx

pensfan83 said:

@kyfdx said:

If only you'd have told me yesterday...

In town?

No, but I could have been for suite tickets... lol

laurasdada

ab348 said:

kyfdx said:

ab348 said:

If you're a Pirates fan, I'd go to the game tonight since they are playing the Mets, who have completely and suddenly forgotten how to win. Just a pathetic and disgusting fall from grace.

The Mets have the 4th best record in the NL since the ASG, and have lost 10.5 games to the Braves, in the standings.

It's more the Braves than the Mets.

No, it's the Mets. 10W/10L in their last 20 including losing 2 of 3 to the hapless Nats and 3 of 4 to the Braves. Scherzer is back on the injured list and Alonso and Lindor both look lost at the plate. The DHs they acquired at the deadline are not much better than those they replaced. As per The Athletic:

"Francisco Lindor is 7-for-43 over the last dozen games. Lindor is not alone with an average like that. Pete Alonso’s 10-for-45, and the DH duo of Daniel Vogelbach and Darin Ruf is a combined 3-for-37 in the last 12 games. Nobody on the Mets has a .300 average over that span. New York is averaging three runs per game over its last dozen contests, a span in which it’s batting .227 with a .293 on-base percentage and .652 OPS."

That doesn't begin to touch on the pitching, which in the last 3 games has allowed 23 runs to the Nats and Pirates.

I can't bear to watch.

Could be worse; could be the Red Sox.

jmonroe1

@qbrozen said:
Spotted on I295 in NJ on Monday. Plate cropped out to protect the owner from public ridicule.

And this is my own rebadge job on the Sprinter.

————————————————
Like that doesn’t deserve public ridicule.

jmonroe

driver100

stickguy said:

Shave the door down?

Metal door...I am pretty sure.

explorerx4

@driver100,
I thought jmoroe1 was going to say he would be happy to cut an inch off the bottom of the door so it won't rub anymore.

driver100

jmonroe1 said:

jmonroe1 said:

driver100 said:

DIY question????
We have a front door that is similar to this, a door with windows along the side s and on top.
Every winter, the door swells, and you have to really tug at it to open or close it.
It gets caught on the bottom.
I have screwed in the hinges and that works for a while, but then it loosens up.
Is there a final cure, or as one person told me, you can't fix the frame, you have to replace the whole thing?

————————————————-
If it opens and closes without binding after you tighten the hinge screws there isn’t enough would left in the door jam to hold the screws long enough for a permanent fix. Either stuff some wood slivers into the screw holes (golf tees work too but you have to drill pilot holes in the golf tees. By stuffing wood slivers in the holes, the screws will go into the spaces between the slivers so pilot holes are not necessary) or use longer screws that will go into the framing of the door (usually a 2x4) not just the jam of the door. This usually requires 2 1/2 inch long screws maybe even a 3 inch screw.

I’d try one longer screw in each hinge to see if it reaches the solid wood of the door framing. If that works use longer screws for all the hinge screws. Just make sure the flat head of the screws sit flat in the counter sink of the hinge. I’m pretty sure the screw size is #9 but take a screw to the store to get the right head size.

I’ll bill you later.

jmonroe

jmonroe1 said:

driver100 said:

DIY question????
We have a front door that is similar to this, a door with windows along the side s and on top.
Every winter, the door swells, and you have to really tug at it to open or close it.
It gets caught on the bottom.
I have screwed in the hinges and that works for a while, but then it loosens up.
Is there a final cure, or as one person told me, you can't fix the frame, you have to replace the whole thing?

————————————————-
If it opens and closes without binding after you tighten the hinge screws there isn’t enough would left in the door jam to hold the screws long enough for a permanent fix. Either stuff some wood slivers into the screw holes (golf tees work too but you have to drill pilot holes in the golf tees. By stuffing wood slivers in the holes, the screws will go into the spaces between the slivers so pilot holes are not necessary) or use longer screws that will go into the framing of the door (usually a 2x4) not just the jam of the door. This usually requires 2 1/2 inch long screws maybe even a 3 inch screw.

I’d try one longer screw in each hinge to see if it reaches the solid wood of the door framing. If that works use longer screws for all the hinge screws. Just make sure the flat head of the screws sit flat in the counter sink of the hinge. I’m pretty sure the screw size is #9 but take a screw to the store to get the right head size.

I’ll bill you later.

jmonroe

————————————————-
Forget what I said about longer screws. I looked at the pic and you can’t use longer screws because there is no framing at the hinge area. Framing is only at the sides where the side lights are. You have to stuff the jam with wood and do it that way.

I’m still going to bill you because stuffing the door jam with wood is a permanent fix, just not my preferred method but you don’t have a choice now.

jmonroe

Great......I knew you'd come through on this one.

@ ab348 suggestion sounds good too. We'll give them a try.
I think maybe Bob Vila or Norm Abram said to remove the screws from the offending hinge, stuff some wooden toothpicks in the hole with some wood glue and let it dry. Reinstall the screws and it should be good.

driver100

@ qbrozen That is hilarious. Now everyone knows you can't trust that guy;

pensfan83

@kyfdx said:
No, but I could have been for suite tickets... lol

I would have waved.

kyfdx

Sounds like he has a lot of tickets.. you could have gone.

kyfdx

@driver100 I've done the toothpick thing.. get some wood glue in the hole, first. Keep jamming the sharp end of the toothpicks in there, and break them off at the surface.

venture

kyfdx said:

venture said:

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

Take it off and open it up, and see what you find. Can’t be too complicated a machine.

————————————————-
Normally I would agree with that but @snakeweasel said he tried to turn it with the tool that you insert in the bottom center of the disposal and it turned freely. Given that and he hears it humming it’s more than likely the starter winding of the disposal is bad. There is no fix for that.

But it doesn’t hurt to pull it out and try the tool again and then give it a shake to see if anything falls out. You have to take it out anyway to replace it.

jmonroe

I had 19 tickets in a suite and 4 parking passes to the Pirate game tonight. I had a difficult time finding anyone to go. Now it will probably rain.

If only you'd have told me yesterday...

Ya know - I bet someone would have gone. I never thought of it. (I did figure jmonroe would not go.)

I did manage to find 15 to go. The other 4 were SRO tickets anyway.

venture

kyfdx said:

pensfan83 said:

@kyfdx said:

If only you'd have told me yesterday...

In town?

No, but I could have been for suite tickets... lol

They just sent a picture of the kids that went. They said there is a big buffet set up and Pirate hats for everyone. I guess that's where Bob Nutting is spending his money.



The tickets were for our Miracle League. The Pirates are very good to us.

venture

pensfan83 said:

@kyfdx said:

No, but I could have been for suite tickets... lol

I would have waved.

I remember being in the Federal Building occasionally and watching the progress on (former) Heinz Field and PNC Park. Long time ago now.

jmonroe1

@ab348 said:
I think maybe Bob Vila or Norm Abram said to remove the screws from the offending hinge, stuff some wooden toothpicks in the hole with some wood glue and let it dry. Reinstall the screws and it should be good.

————————————————-
Tooth picks work but you’ll need a box of them for all the hinge holes. I like to use a wood shim and use a chisel to split a few pieces from it and insert much larger pieces of wood compared to puny tooth picks.

The idea is to get some wood in there to hold the screws.

jmonroe

snakeweasel

driver100 said:

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

Take it off and open it up, and see what you find. Can’t be too complicated a machine.

————————————————-
Normally I would agree with that but @snakeweasel said he tried to turn it with the tool that you insert in the bottom center of the disposal and it turned freely. Given that and he hears it humming it’s more than likely the starter winding of the disposal is bad. There is no fix for that.

But it doesn’t hurt to pull it out and try the tool again and then give it a shake to see if anything falls out. You have to take it out anyway to replace it.

jmonroe

Sometimes giving it a good firm strike with a hammer works!

OK, just for grits and shins I tried hitting it with a hammer. Guess what? It didn't work.

ab348

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

Take it off and open it up, and see what you find. Can’t be too complicated a machine.

————————————————-
Normally I would agree with that but @snakeweasel said he tried to turn it with the tool that you insert in the bottom center of the disposal and it turned freely. Given that and he hears it humming it’s more than likely the starter winding of the disposal is bad. There is no fix for that.

But it doesn’t hurt to pull it out and try the tool again and then give it a shake to see if anything falls out. You have to take it out anyway to replace it.

jmonroe

Sometimes giving it a good firm strike with a hammer works!

OK, just for grits and shins I tried hitting it with a hammer. Guess what? It didn't work.

Even worse, it now has a big dent in it.

snakeweasel

ab348 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

Take it off and open it up, and see what you find. Can’t be too complicated a machine.

————————————————-
Normally I would agree with that but @snakeweasel said he tried to turn it with the tool that you insert in the bottom center of the disposal and it turned freely. Given that and he hears it humming it’s more than likely the starter winding of the disposal is bad. There is no fix for that.

But it doesn’t hurt to pull it out and try the tool again and then give it a shake to see if anything falls out. You have to take it out anyway to replace it.

jmonroe

Sometimes giving it a good firm strike with a hammer works!

OK, just for grits and shins I tried hitting it with a hammer. Guess what? It didn't work.

Even worse, it now has a big dent in it.

Yes it does, but I can always get a new hammer.

driver100

kyfdx said:

@driver100 I've done the toothpick thing.. get some wood glue in the hole, first. Keep jamming the sharp end of the toothpicks in there, and break them off at the surface.

Even though I am not a DIYer, I think I can manage doing that!

driver100

ab348 said:

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

Take it off and open it up, and see what you find. Can’t be too complicated a machine.

————————————————-
Normally I would agree with that but @snakeweasel said he tried to turn it with the tool that you insert in the bottom center of the disposal and it turned freely. Given that and he hears it humming it’s more than likely the starter winding of the disposal is bad. There is no fix for that.

But it doesn’t hurt to pull it out and try the tool again and then give it a shake to see if anything falls out. You have to take it out anyway to replace it.

jmonroe

Sometimes giving it a good firm strike with a hammer works!

OK, just for grits and shins I tried hitting it with a hammer. Guess what? It didn't work.

Even worse, it now has a big dent in it.

My DIY Plan A. Try unplugging it and plugging it in again.
Plan B: Try hitting it with a hammer.
If those don't work, amortize the cost of buying a new one and justify it to yourself that it will end up costing you less money and frustration in the end.

ronsteve

@ab348 said:
That generation Malibu only comes with turbo engines, either the weaksauce 1.5 which it likely has, or the 2.0.

Premier trim has 2.0 turbo and 9 speed automatic. All others are 1.5 turbo and CVT.

It’s worth noting that most recent turbos are low boost at low rpm, which makes a nicer torque curve than the older peaky turbos that had to spool up.

roadburner

qbrozen said:

Spotted on I295 in NJ on Monday. Plate cropped out to protect the owner from public ridicule.

And this is my own rebadge job on the Sprinter.

Years ago a guy who lived up the street from my brother in law had a dead stock 1993 325i with an M3 emblem on the trunk. I kept hoping I'd run into him so I could tell him, "Gosh, neat car! Except for the wheels, the front airdam, the side molding, the side skirts, the mirrors, the rear valence, the seats, the steering wheel, the shift knob, and the exhaust, it looks just like a real E36 M3."

jmonroe1

@roadburner said:
Years ago a guy who lived up the street from my brother in law had a dead stock 1993 325i with an M3 emblem on the trunk. I kept hoping I'd run into him so I could tell him, "Gosh, neat car! Except for the wheels, the front airdam, the side molding, the side skirts, the mirrors, the rear valence, the seats, the steering wheel, the shift knob, and the exhaust, it looks just like a real E36 M3."

————————————————-
So, you liked it that much.

jmonroe

imidazol97

Tire air pump saga from discussion 1.5 years ago?


I bought a couple of 12 volt car tire pumps after @driver100 had mentioned them here long ago.
I gave one to son and DIL. He used it about 3 times over 1.5 years. It failed and that fit the pattern of
reviews for that pump on the amazon descriptions. I went to the purchase link on my amazon. It had a different button there that linked you to the manufacturer for support. Hmmm. I figured the company had been "banned" from amazon over bad merchandise.

I wrote a comment on page provided for Audew in Hong Kong. Got response of "it's been more than few months. No support. Hope you understand."

So I thought I'd respond that it had been used only a few times. Got response that they would either send product which would take a long time or refund.

Then next day response to my choice of a refund was amazon link "wouldn't let them refund after 3 months." Hmmm. Banned from amazon? And told me to contact amazon and "ask amazon to see how they could do refund.
Amazon of course had nothing to help after getting past language barrier and a third agent -- using chat, no less.

I responded to Audew to just send a product. I'd wait.

Today response was that "product not available. I should try further with amazon." So my response was to just send a similar product--since they still are peddling their wares on Walmart, that should be easy to do--
OR I suggested just send a check in US funds to my address.

What will be their response tomorrow morning? Have I played them along for enough time? Have I gotten my money's worth out of stringing them while they think they're stringing me? I expected to get $0 or no replacement pump. So I'm out nothing.

driver100

@imidazol97
I take no responsibility for something I suggested on amazon.
Walmart might not be better, you are dealing with independent dealers...W-Mart won't take responsibility unless it is actually from them.
If I buy something on amazon I only buy 4 or 5 star items with decent reviews.....there will always be lemons.
The government did a check on Dollar Stores here, they found a large percentage (25%) of items had things in them that shouldn't be there....like lead etc.
These days....buyer beware, and there will always be lemons.

For example: One in four of the products tested were positive for substances managed under the Canadian Environmental Protection Act. Many of the findings were within the allowable limits, but the report says those limits are not strong enough.

The outer ring on a set of stereo headphones was found to have 24 times the legal limit of lead, and five times the legal limit of cadmium.
https://www.ctvnews.ca/health/toxic-chemicals-commonly-found-in-dollar-store-items-testing-shows-1.6050206

qbrozen

@roadburner , what happened to the “old man car” confession? Did I miss it?

stickguy

Well, it sucks to fail early but if it’s out of warranty, they don’t really owe you anything b

imidazol97

driver100 said:

@imidazol97
I take no responsibility for something I suggested on amazon.
Walmart might not be better, you are dealing with independent dealers...W-Mart won't take responsibility unless it is actually from them.


When you mentioned that you had bought a pump, I realized they were much better than the harbor freight one I had. I asked which you had gotten. I then picked from the group based on the specifications of the hose and power cable lengths. IIRC you weren't sure which one you had bought and indicated one that was like it, and there were several similar ones. The other two I have bought from the group have served well in light use. But I recall this triangular shaped one had some comments about phantom cause failures. But some of the others did also.

I didn't expect to get anything, but it's often worth a try. As for purchasing from Walmart's independent suppliers, I've found that over-priced and underserved. Only thing I bought there has been specific hair product my wife likes because it's price was better from that company. No shipping charge IIRC. Came just fine, but took a few days. Amazon's next day sometimes service has spoiled me.

graphicguy

Baseball fans….well, if you really want to dive into despair, the Reds, Pirates and Cubbies are all doing their best to keep from having a 100 loss season in our division. The good news, the Bengals start off at home this Sunday. THAT will be fun.

Got my car back last night….before and after pics…..

Apparently, no filler needed. They just heated the bumper cover, it popped in place. They sanded the scratches smooth, painted, cleared and voila….like new. They did a great job. Body shop manager said they have a photo machine that matches paint mixes exactly once it “sees” the paint that’s already on the car. But, it wasn’t an issue on mine since the paint is so new. Plus, clear coats now have UV protection, so fading is less of an issue.

He said they used factory paint, too.

Paint and repair guaranteed for as long as I own the car.





Final total? $585. Do I wish I didn’t have to spend $585? Absolutely. But, it could have been worse. Very pleased.

stickguy

Excellent job.

jmonroe1

graphicguy said:

Baseball fans….well, if you really want to dive into despair, the Reds, Pirates and Cubbies are all doing their best to keep from having a 100 loss season in our division. The good news, the Bengals start off at home this Sunday. THAT will be fun.

Got my car back last night….before and after pics…..

Apparently, no filler needed. They just heated the bumper cover, it popped in place. They sanded the scratches smooth, painted, cleared and voila….like new. They did a great job. Body shop manager said they have a photo machine that matches paint mixes exactly once it “sees” the paint that’s already on the car. But, it wasn’t an issue on mine since the paint is so new. Plus, clear coats now have UV protection, so fading is less of an issue.

He said they used factory paint, too.

Paint and repair guaranteed for as long as I own the car.





Final total? $585. Do I wish I didn’t have to spend $585? Absolutely. But, it could have been worse. Very pleased.

———————————————
Where did you learn to photoshop pics like that?

Sometimes you make out. It’s nice when you’re the windshield and not the bug.

Jmonroe

stickguy

DIY fun never ends. We are having our master closet and laundry room shelving replaced tomorrow (cabinets in laundry, and nice wood shelves and double hanging in master). So yesterday I had to pull out all the old stuff the builder put in (closet maid wire shelving). All of which was installed with drywall anchors. Many anchors. So took a while to get them all out, leaving approximately 75 holes to fill (about 1/4 I think). And then paint since was going to look awful behind the new stuff.

When I went down to get sparkle I remembered that I threw out all the old open stuff when we moved. So had none. So at 9 PM I’m down at lowes restocking my paint supply shelf and buying a gallon of paint. Then home to sparkle them all in. Thankfully it dried nice so when I sanded this morning most were ready to paint. Had a few needing a second hit of sparkle so that’s drying now. Then paint before dinner. Hopefully just 1 coat, since it is a closet!

And man, I hate repairing drywall and doing sparkle. Though I spent a lot extra for the fancy stuff this time, and it really did work good!

tjc78

@stickguy said:
DIY fun never ends. We are having our master closet and laundry room shelving replaced tomorrow (cabinets in laundry, and nice wood shelves and double hanging in master). So yesterday I had to pull out all the old stuff the builder put in (closet maid wire shelving). All of which was installed with drywall anchors. Many anchors. So took a while to get them all out, leaving approximately 75 holes to fill (about 1/4 I think). And then paint since was going to look awful behind the new stuff.

When I went down to get sparkle I remembered that I threw out all the old open stuff when we moved. So had none. So at 9 PM I’m down at lowes restocking my paint supply shelf and buying a gallon of paint. Then home to sparkle them all in. Thankfully it dried nice so when I sanded this morning most were ready to paint. Had a few needing a second hit of sparkle so that’s drying now. Then paint before dinner. Hopefully just 1 coat, since it is a closet!

And man, I hate repairing drywall and doing sparkle. Though I spent a lot extra for the fancy stuff this time, and it really did work good!

I had to repair the wall in the basement bath this morning. Kids got something on the wall. I scrubbed too hard and made a mess. Skim coat of patch then I’ll lightly sand and touch up the paint.

Michaell

stickguy said:

DIY fun never ends. We are having our master closet and laundry room shelving replaced tomorrow (cabinets in laundry, and nice wood shelves and double hanging in master). So yesterday I had to pull out all the old stuff the builder put in (closet maid wire shelving). All of which was installed with drywall anchors. Many anchors. So took a while to get them all out, leaving approximately 75 holes to fill (about 1/4 I think). And then paint since was going to look awful behind the new stuff.

When I went down to get sparkle I remembered that I threw out all the old open stuff when we moved. So had none. So at 9 PM I’m down at lowes restocking my paint supply shelf and buying a gallon of paint. Then home to sparkle them all in. Thankfully it dried nice so when I sanded this morning most were ready to paint. Had a few needing a second hit of sparkle so that’s drying now. Then paint before dinner. Hopefully just 1 coat, since it is a closet!

And man, I hate repairing drywall and doing sparkle. Though I spent a lot extra for the fancy stuff this time, and it really did work good!

We did that in our first house - pull out the old shelving, spackle and paint the closet - to prep for the custom closet install.

Glad that you got it all in place.

ab348

stickguy said:

When I went down to get sparkle I remembered that I threw out all the old open stuff when we moved. So had none. So at 9 PM I’m down at lowes restocking my paint supply shelf and buying a gallon of paint. Then home to sparkle them all in. Thankfully it dried nice so when I sanded this morning most were ready to paint. Had a few needing a second hit of sparkle so that’s drying now. Then paint before dinner. Hopefully just 1 coat, since it is a closet!

And man, I hate repairing drywall and doing sparkle. Though I spent a lot extra for the fancy stuff this time, and it really did work good!

Isn't it a bit of a waste buying that expensive sparkly filler when you're just going to paint over it? I much prefer the non-sparkly kind.

ab348

Frustrating day yesterday. Last Tuesday (so 8 days prior) I took the ATS to the body shop for an estimate. Estimator asks if I want to wait around an extra half-hour to get a printed copy of the final result or if he can just email it to me. I chose the latter and left once he gave me back my keys.

I let it go b/c of the long weekend but when there was still radio silence yesterday I contacted him. His response was "check your spam filter because a lot of my customers say that's where my emails end up." Sure enough, there it was. Why he didn't mention that at the time is a mystery, but whatever.

The repairs are worth $2200 +/-. The good news is that he sent it off the the insurer and the repairs are approved, so he is booking the car to come in next week for an 11-day repair (why so long I do not know but I'm not going to push it). The bad news is that the response from the insurance co. is that I have to pay a $500 deductible. Huh? I asked him about that and he thought it was strange b/c I was the one who got hit. He said that when he saw that response from the company he reached out to the adjuster b/c he thought she made an error, but got no response. I told him to go ahead and book it anyway and that I would go to work on them.

I then sent a polite email to the adjuster on the subject. I have had zero contact or communication with this person since all this started, not one word. As of this moment, still none. Grrr. Things are starting to rumble inside. Add to that similar radio silence from the bridge authorities who probably have video footage of the incident but seem reluctant to even speak to anyone about providing it. Double grrr.