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Comments
We don't usually include ad fees in TMV around here because they are regional and vary a lot. Too much to keep up with.
Other fees besides tax, license/registration and the document fee? That kind of goes to what the market will bear.
Some dealers try to charge you for the tank of gas that you'll need to leave the lot. Others want to sell you paint protection, vin etching, pinstrips, extended warranties and who knows what else - maybe loan origination fees?
All fees are negotiable, but if you can live with the final price that lets you leave the showroom floor with the new car, that's really what counts. Let the dealer worry about how to allocate any and all fees.
So just keep telling the salesperson that you want an out the door price, and when they spring a last minute surprise on you, walk out the door. It's just a car and there's another just down the street - in fact, we have a Nissan in our driveway right now because a Honda salesperson jerked me around.
This is all easy for me to say since I don't have car fever at the moment, lol.
Check our 10 Step links for more, and get comfortable with a price you can live with.
Steve, Host
Thanks for the prompt and thorough answer. You're right, it's time to review the 10 steps again.
- Bill
I purchased CRV-EX 4-SP Automatic AWD for $21,280 + tax and license at Capitol Honda in San Jose. Fair both ways. Not a steal, but fair. Tim W. Not sure if they have anymore 2003 in stock. The $21,280 is the Edmunds TMV. My experience was great, but I did my homework and knew exactly what I wanted. The Edmunds site was a big help. MSRP is $22,860. Invoice is $21,152, but this probably is not the true invoice due to unknown dealer incentives, hold back charges, etc. Final asking price on the sticker was $24,155, but that is just silly. Anyway, this dealer was no hassle and I am really pleased with my CRV. It had one glitch, an oil leak at 250 miles due to a miset water pump bolt at the factory, but the dealer fixed it right away, cleaned everything back to spotless, and paid for a rental car for me while being fixed. Problems out of the box with Honda are said to be really rare. I drive nothing but for 20 years (CRX, Accord, CRV) and no problems.
When buying a car, remember, preparation is key. Time, Power, and Information. Know your maximum price. Know exactly what model, color, options, and your "see ya" walk out limit. Check and test drive first, with no intention to buy, then start making offers via internet sales. Create competition- it is your main source of power.
Record VIN # of vehicles you intend to bid on. Make it clear you are bidding on that vehicle. If it is no longer available, use the situation to your advantage. Negotiation is a situation of positions, interests, power, and time. Keep time on your side, don't fall for pressure ploys and remember, you are entitled to something of value for everything you give up relative to your opening offer (if it is reasonable and sound). "Sorry we can't sell it for that" is not a final answer.
kyfdx
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Craig---who grew up in San Pedro
Also, does anyone know how to arrange upgrading the tires at a dealership before driving away with the car? For a CR-V in particular, I would want the Bridgestone Dueler HL instead of the stock HT. According to reviews on TireRack, the HL is much quieter and has much better traction over all surfaces. A lot of the CR-V's road noise can be attributed to the stock tires.
Do dealer service departments carry tires? Could you ask the sales rep to replace the stock tires with better ones (like the HLs), charge you for the new ones, and give you a credit for the stock tires that they now get to keep? Can the dealer use tires that were on a new vehicle for 10 miles - can they still be sold as new tires?
Joe
Steve, Host
I am coming up from Mexico to buy an EX Manual.
First thought was Texas but most of the dealers seem to be waiting on 2004 models.
Can anyone point me to a dealer in the South or Southwest who has inventory and cuts a good deal?
Thanks.
I've been shopping around Phoenix for a 2003 LX 2wd, and it's been an adventure. I would prefer one with the side airbags, but there seem to be none in town. That didn't stop one dealer from lying to me over the phone claiming to have one, so he could get me down there, run a credit check, and attempt to sell me an imaginary car.
They seem to still have the 03 LX's at every dealer I've checked and the best deal I seem to get from them is around $18.4k tax and license.
I was hoping someone could tell me when the 2004 CRV's are coming in. I get varying reports from dealers, some saying not until November.
Do you think if I wait for the 04 (in which case I could get the side airbags) that I would pay a whole lot more? Should I try to snag an 03 now?
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Lucy
One dealer in Houston told me he is getting his last 03 delivered first week of October that shipped from Japan Sept 5th.
By that standard, 04s shipping from Japan would take 3 or 4 weeks to arrive to the dealers stateside.
So any more discussion about availability in the South or Southwest, 03 and 04, would be appreciated.
There was not any 2003 model at the dealer facility in July so I placed an order of a 2004 LX 4WD Autotmatic and the dealer made deal with my order at the price of 2003 Invoice - $700 for the 2004. They called and let me know that my car has a production date of late September and should arrive during the first week of October.
So in your situation if the dealer does not have the car you really want, try to place an order. In my opinion, it is better to get a 2004 than a 2003. If you have to sell the car later, you cannot tell the seller that you bought a 2003 but in late September!!! And technically, the 2003 is already one year old although it is brand new. The MSRP for 2004 Civic and Accod is about $100.00 more than 2003. So there would not be more than that amount for 2004 CRV vs. 2003.
Hope this helps.
Paid cash. No financing.
Auto Price (including Destination Charges) $21,251
Options Prices (including installation):
Leather Steering Wheel Cover 78
Base Carrier (Roof rack) 361
Splash Guards - Front 113
Cargo Liner 176
Cost of Vehicle 21,979
Sales Tax (8.25%) 1,817
Fees (Document $45, Tire recycle $5) 50
Calif. Registration 187
TOTAL OUT THE DOOR PRICE $24,033
Harbor's initial bid was $21,250 for the car but the accessory charges were higher than the competition. They reduced them and we agreed on the new price. Drove it about 150 miles Friday and 170 miles today and absolutely LOVE the car. It really handles well and I actually dragged a BMW 530 for fun. OK, OK, I didn't come out ahead, but it really was a kick challenging with a 4 banger SUV and not being totally embarrassed. Also climbed a steep long grade, where my old Explorer couldn't get past 55MPH and soared along comfortably at 70. So my concern about the lack of power has evaporated. Gas mileage was 24 mpg on the first tank compared to the 16 MPG I was getting on my 6 cyl Explorer. Only negatives are that you do get some road noise. I have a feeling if I had Michelins on, it would be a lot better. And 2 areas of concern I had seen on this board - radio is kind of weak and the arm rest that pulls out is really skinny and offers no support. But this is really reaching to come up with something. By the way anyone put in the optional sub-woofer? Did it help?
I am even more enthusiastic about the car now that I've taken it through its paces.
Good Luck!
I assume 4wd?
Vehicle: $21652 (CarsDirect.com price was $22001 and MSRP is $22860)
Dealer doc fee: $249.00
Arizona Vehicle License Tax (VLT): $392.07
Tire Fee: $5.00
Sales tax (8.1%): $1753.81
Arizona prices seem to be higher than the prices I've seen people get on this list (in CA and elsewhere). I wish I knew why that is the case.
Steve, Host
Would you please comment on the dealer doc. fee of $249 paid by desertman in PHX. rforducla says he paid $45 in CA. You've said $50 is reasonable. The is one fee I can't get a handle on and it seem like a lot of dealers here in the PHX area charge $250 - 300 (they advertise doc fees in the paper so I'm assuming these aren't finance fees).
I can estimate a fair price for the vehicle, know about all the dealer add-ons, know sales tax and tags but it's anything else that may come up when it's time to sign the contract, especially this "doc fee". Any ideas what gives with a number this high?
I'm about to dive in (re-read Edmunds 10 steps and more) and seems like internet and telephone are the only way to go but I'm still wondering if the dealers won't be holding something back.
BTW, other than the doc fee, $21652 paid by desertman sounds like a fair price - exactly Edmunds TMV.
Thanks in advance,
- Bill
You can save yourself some cash by transfering tags from your old car.
tidester, host
They seem like a great dealership, with good business practices. For some reason, I'm not getting a response to my e-mails right now - maybe the sales rep is off.
The EX Automatics in California you all report to be selling for $21,280 and $21,251.
That is about a $600 to $680 delta for Automatic.
Honda says the Automatic is an $800 additional expense. Edmunds at invoice shows $738 difference, or at TMV a difference of $769 for the automatic.
But the EX Automatics are only getting $600 to $680 more than the EX Manual. We wanted a manual, so not relevant to us.
Anyone doing any better for EX incl dest than the above?
Grand Honda out of Chicago has their EX prices posted at 20,203 manual and 20,941 but i don't know if that includes dest. If it does not, then Grand is slightly higher than CA and Houston by $100 to $125.
I bought one from Earhhardt in Glendale. Not sure I would recommend them, buy they did give me my price and had the color I wanted.
Here's the scoop:
Vehicle $18,001.97
Tint $100.00
Tax $1471.26
Tire Tax $5.00
License and Reg $331.27
Doc Fee $295.50 (Ugh!)
Dealt with Showcase Honda and Arrowhead also. Got lots of attitude visiting Bell Honda from "Beth Ann" when I tried to negotiate a price close to invoice. "Why are you even here?" "You're going to be shopping for a long time because noone will sell for that."
Low and behold, I get a call from Earnhardt the next day "Well, we've got this quota to meet today, so we'll go ahead ..." Yeah, whatever!
I couldn't escape that stupid doc fee either. I just tried to negotiate around it with an out the door price.
Thanks again.
I guess that's their way of making profit.
It's fine to name the dealer/location.
One way around the doc fee is just to focus on an out the door price and let the dealer allocate the payment how it wants to. As Tidester says, dealers do like to pad this fee.
And I purchased my last new car back in '99 before most dealers were net savvy. I did a lot of my negotiating by fax, and even today many dealers think if you send a fax you are more serious about buying.
Steve, Host
I hope this helps any other CR-V shoppers.
We go in tomorrow to take delivery.
Also, though there is a separate discussion thread for this topic, what are some of you finding the dealer charging for accessories installed.
Like cargo cover, cigarette ash tray, moonroof visor, and roof rack.
I am finding $260, $190, $130, and $370 respectively, and am having a hard time with this gouging.
I can't really comment on accessories and pricing, but I would think, again, that negotiating an out the door price would help you avoid some gouging.
I can tell you in my case that right up until the bitter end the dealer was trying to add things to the bill. Mainly, a security system that started out a bargain at $699, then $499, then $250 ("at cost, so we don't have to remove it"). I still declined, so then there was a $195 fee to enroll me in some kind of anti-theft program or something. Had them remove that, too.
I don't know if it was because of being a female negotiating with men, but hearing them out and then saying "No" didn't work at all for me. They would just get more aggressive. Cutting them off mid sentence and saying "The answer is no" worked very well, though. (Maybe a tip for other women out there).
Good Luck.
LET'S Make a Deal (Smart Money) (scroll down a bit to the F&I info)
Steve, Host
regards,
kyfdx
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If you plan on keeping your CRV for 100K miles and you drive 14-16K per year, then the 7yr/100K warranty doesn't look like a bad deal for around $900. I haven't bought it, but I've been tempted. I put 59K on my last CRV in 3.5 yrs, and had a grand total of $11 in out of warranty repairs though, so you have to decide for yourself if its worth it.
regards,
kyfdx
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The above post is a good example why a smart dealership won't give a customer their "best deal" to go shop.
It always amazes me what some people will put themselves through in their quest for the "best deal".
Dealers will sell based on what the local market dictates, and frankly if consumers are more informed and shop by price than dealers are going to have to accomodate that to be competitive. I would assume that if there were lots of buyers walking in and paying sticker price, dealers wouldn't be giving out "best deal" prices.
Fair summary of your position Isell?
Steve, Host
I had been searching mainly through internet, along with phone call, fax, etc. Only went to the nearest dealership for a test drive before hand. I've given them chance to match up the price, but unfortunately they only have one left, and just wouldn't budge for the price... And the dealer I bought from had 3 in stock same color.
If you want to buy 2003, better be hurry, the supply is getting smaller.
I have nothing against shopping for a good deal.
A lot of salespeople have spent half a day, demonstrating, test driving etc. thye will give the customer a decent price. The customer will then take that price, drive 50 miles to buy it for 100.00 less from a salesperson who basically did nothing.
Chances are, the first store could have matched or beat that price anyway.
Funny business this is...
tidester, host
Look, I understand that the dealer needs to make a profit. In my case, I needed the car fast so I calculated Edmunds TMV with tax and license and shopped that as an out the door price. My main goal was not to get hosed in the deal. I started on a Thursday and a couple dealers were very cool with telling me they only had one or two and thought they could get a better offer over the weekend. Fair enough. Other dealers gave me attitude, the run around, and some outrageous BS.
I made it clear that the first dealer to give me my price got my business. I got a call Sunday night and bought the car on Monday (not without some last minute BS, though). Incidently, I've also had subsequent calls from all the dealers that held out for a better price over the weekend, those CRV's are still sitting there.
Obviously, dealers would rather not compete with eachother on price. I'd love to run a retail business that didn't have to compete on price. Excluding the hottest cars, however, I think that in most big markets they will have to suck it up or lose buyers to the dealers who will. Also, I would assume that demographically your most informed consumers also have the best credit profiles.
And I feel the same way. Trouble is, most of the time the "bottom line" price will get shopped and the sale will be lost for a few dollars.
I wouldn't have believed it until I got into this business.
If it's a low offer on a car in short supply, a low offer will probably be rejected since there is little fear of loss.
If it's a car a dealer has fifteen of, it's a different story.
But, there is never an excuse for rudeness by a salesperson.
So, in summary, its not likely that a dealer is going to give you his bottom price, unless you offer first to pay it. It would be futile on his part. Thats why its so important to do your homework ahead of time, so you know a good deal when you see it.
NOW, take everything else he says with a grain of salt!! (just kidding)
regards,
kyfdx
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Sometimes egos get involved. When it's a lousy 150.00, it's not the money.
Life is short...