@docfroid"Btw-all these fees were non negotiable."
When all the crap starts adding up to something ridiculous ($310 + $495 doc fee, etc.), that's when it's time to say, "I didn't realize you were going to add $800 of garbage fees to the price, I now lower my offer by $1000".
So, it doesn't really matter what they say isn't negotiable. You get to decide what you are willing to pay.
And, I realize that's easier said than done.
Thanks for that input. And I'm always willing to walk, but help me with this though. The tough part is I don't know what they are actually getting the car for. Yes, I know what the invoice is suppose to be, but I don't know:
- how much rebates are they getting vs the $1k they are giving me - if the invoice that is public knowledge includes a destination charge - is the said $995 dest charge really their charge - Is it true that they get no $$ from the base money factor - are there $$ they are considering they will get when you return the lease at end of my 36
Without knowing the above, they can sit there and tell me with fees and such added in as my deal states. At $624 a month they are only making $1k or less than that on the car bc they are selling it to me for invoice.
I also have to gauge how much do they want to sell the car when they know that they can sell it for more to another person. Or in their world, for this type of car, they don't worry about that bc getting cars for them is almost infinite vs say when the new stingray corvette came out, and I had no leverage bc dealers got only a few of them.
Essentially, I'm saying, yes, I get to say what I'm willing to pay, but I can't say what I'm willing to pay for a car without knowing what is realistic. I've read that a true bank fee/acq fee is really non-neg. I haven't heard if doc fees are. And then per my questions above, do they need these fees to make money when you get car for invoice. Thanks.
The net of this is:
* Nobody knows the actual price paid by the dealer to the manufacturer. Holdback, secret factory to dealer incentives and the like make it impossible for the public to determine this number. "Invoice" is just a published number. * No dealer will make a deal where they are losing money. They may say that they are, but see the bullet point above. So, make your best offer - if the dealer accepts, then great. Could you have gotten a lower price? I suppose, but if you're comfortable with the price you're paying, that's all that matters. * Supply and demand always play a role. There are some amazing deals to be had on certain cars (BMW i3 and Infiniti Q50 for under $300/mo). The MDX plays in a very competitive space, so if you can't make a deal you like, there are lots of other luxury SUV's to choose from.
Thanks guys. Called another dealer, which unfortunately is an hour way, found out that my number was possible, also had a friend who by chance grew up with the general manager at the place giving me a hard time. That friend got me to $605 by calling the GM. That GM called me, and I told them the other Acura dealer got me to $595.
Went to the dealer close to me and just brought the car home for $595 a month. 36 months/12k per year. No money down nor anything paid upfront. I felt good about this deal, and am happy.
Was a long road. $688, to $668 and can't go lower, to $624 and that is final, to $605, to $595....Wow.....thanks for all your help and saving me at least $73 a month for the 36 months!
Ha! Great job! Enjoy it for the next 3 years. When you get a chance, can you post the parameters of your lease. I'm curious as to how they worked the deal.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Sure. Which parameters? Sales price, fees, taxes? My mf was .0006 and residual was 58%. I can fill in other details tomorrow.
Of course I didn't notice a gouge/scape in the passenger side wood trim near where that fake wood hits the plastic dash. Deep to where all the grain is gone. Now when I thought I was done I have to bring this up to them tomorrow and run the risk of them saying I took it off the lot so not their issue.
I think those pieces are easily replaceable but not sure....let you guys know how that goes tomorrow
Can I get the lease numbers (36/10) for the MDX Tech/Ent. Getting confused with the calculations
MSRP 52210 RV -59% - $30803.9 MF -.00060 VA Tax - 4.1% (Taxes taken upfront) Tag/title/Processing ($450) Acq - $595 Selling price of the vechile - $47000
I am getting monthly payment (532.5 +48.5) = $581, but the dealer is calc around $615.
Which of those fees are you paying upfront, and what is being rolled in? You should ask for the adjusted CAP cost, and see how that compares to the selling price, or ask them to send you a screenshot of the deal on the computer.
Its Zero down, no payment upfront. I should ask them for the adjusted CAP Cost.
Can I get the lease numbers (36/10) for the MDX Tech/Ent. Getting confused with the calculations
MSRP 52210 RV -59% - $30803.9 MF -.00060 VA Tax - 4.1% (Taxes taken upfront) Tag/title/Processing ($450) Acq - $595 Selling price of the vechile - $47000
I am getting monthly payment (532.5 +48.5) = $581, but the dealer is calc around $615.
Which of those fees are you paying upfront, and what is being rolled in? You should ask for the adjusted CAP cost, and see how that compares to the selling price, or ask them to send you a screenshot of the deal on the computer.
Its Zero down, no payment upfront. I should ask them for the adjusted CAP Cost.
Yes, the adjusted cap cost will reveal any hidden costs.
Sorry for taking a few days here. List $52,230. My net cap was $49,979.49 on the mdx with tech and Ent. .0006 mf, 58% resid ($30,293.40) 36 month, 12k per year. $595 a month. No money down. Well, there was $93 bc I initially put down a first month payment as a deposit. And that was obviously factored into the $49979.49 price.
QUESTION: So I ran the math, per the above, to see what my 5 year cost would be if I ran this lease for the 3 years, and then decided to buy the car for the $30,293.40 by then placing $15k down and taking out a 2 year loan. Total cost of lease payments are $595 x 36 plus the $93 down payment = $21,513. If I buy car at residual I need to add tax, 30,293.40 x 7% = $32,413.94. Is that how I'd do it or do I need to factor in what I paid in tax for the original price then do some other math?? Anyhow, if I use these numbers, then subtract my $15k down payment I get $17,413.94, and on a 2 year loan at 3.99%, the total loan cost is $18,147. So tha number plus by 21,513 in lease costs, plus my $15k = $54,660.
Versus
Financing upfront for 5 years at their special apr of 2.99 on the total. I adjusted total by taking the sales price of vehicle, $47938.01, and multiplying times the 7% nj sales tax plus the supplemental nj tax on cars over $40k of .44%. So. $3,566.59 in tax minus the lease tax of $1436.73 = $2,129.86. So I need to add that number to my lease net cap cost of $49979.49 which = $52,109.35. If I put $15k down, and at 60 months took that $37,109.35 at 2.99%, my total payments are $15k plus the total cost of loan at $39,998 = $54,998.
So does this mean that I could get the car cheaper by leasing then buying?? Or am I doing my math wrong? Maybe my used car interest rate is aggressive or I'm missing costs when buying car out?
But it seems like the advantages of leasing out way the little extra dollars I'd pay: - no money out of pocket which means I can now invest that $15k elsewhere - if car gets totaled or stolen I am out not much - The car could also be worth more, meaning i could buy back and sell for more - Or it could have less of a value compared to my buy out residual and I can negotiate a cheaper buy out, making this lease to buy even cheaper.
Sorry for taking a few days here. List $52,230. My net cap was $49,979.49 on the mdx with tech and Ent. .0006 mf, 58% resid ($30,293.40) 36 month, 12k per year. $595 a month. No money down. Well, there was $93 bc I initially put down a first month payment as a deposit. And that was obviously factored into the $49979.49 price.
QUESTION: So I ran the math, per the above, to see what my 5 year cost would be if I ran this lease for the 3 years, and then decided to buy the car for the $30,293.40 by then placing $15k down and taking out a 2 year loan. Total cost of lease payments are $595 x 36 plus the $93 down payment = $21,513. If I buy car at residual I need to add tax, 30,293.40 x 7% = $32,413.94. Is that how I'd do it or do I need to factor in what I paid in tax for the original price then do some other math?? Anyhow, if I use these numbers, then subtract my $15k down payment I get $17,413.94, and on a 2 year loan at 3.99%, the total loan cost is $18,147. So tha number plus by 21,513 in lease costs, plus my $15k = $54,660.
Versus
Financing upfront for 5 years at their special apr of 2.99 on the total. I adjusted total by taking the sales price of vehicle, $47938.01, and multiplying times the 7% nj sales tax plus the supplemental nj tax on cars over $40k of .44%. So. $3,566.59 in tax minus the lease tax of $1436.73 = $2,129.86. So I need to add that number to my lease net cap cost of $49979.49 which = $52,109.35. If I put $15k down, and at 60 months took that $37,109.35 at 2.99%, my total payments are $15k plus the total cost of loan at $39,998 = $54,998.
So does this mean that I could get the car cheaper by leasing then buying?? Or am I doing my math wrong? Maybe my used car interest rate is aggressive or I'm missing costs when buying car out?
But it seems like the advantages of leasing out way the little extra dollars I'd pay: - no money out of pocket which means I can now invest that $15k elsewhere - if car gets totaled or stolen I am out not much - The car could also be worth more, meaning i could buy back and sell for more - Or it could have less of a value compared to my buy out residual and I can negotiate a cheaper buy out, making this lease to buy even cheaper.
The math looks right.
However, you will not be able to negotiate the buyout price at the end of the lease.
Wow - lots of math to look at early in the AM. I need another cup of coffee before I can answer that question.
If you've got $15K laying around that you don't know what to do with, you could always give it to me. I could find a good use for it (paint exterior of my house, new driveway, new deck...) LOL!
in all seriousness, as a rule of thumb if you are going to keep the car longer than 3 years, just buy it out right. With a truck like the MDX that holds its value very well, you can't go wrong by putting nothing down & financing it over 5 years. Then you can keep your $15K to invest, & not have to worry about paying the lease tax plus the tax when you buy the car out. Just make it easier on yourself. Just my humble opinion.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Wow - lots of math to look at early in the AM. I need another cup of coffee before I can answer that question.
If you've got $15K laying around that you don't know what to do with, you could always give it to me. I could find a good use for it (paint exterior of my house, new driveway, new deck...) LOL!
in all seriousness, as a rule of thumb if you are going to keep the car longer than 3 years, just buy it out right. With a truck like the MDX that holds its value very well, you can't go wrong by putting nothing down & financing it over 5 years. Then you can keep your $15K to invest, & not have to worry about paying the lease tax plus the tax when you buy the car out. Just make it easier on yourself. Just my humble opinion.
Actually did the math on this too. It all depends on your lease deal, and if you can keep on getting good deals. For instance, if I lease and pay $595 a month for 7 years (84 months) that's $49,980 total out of pocket, and I'm on my 3rd new car. If I bought it at same sales price, put 15k down on it, took a 5 year loan, total cost over 84 months would be $54,660 about. Not including tire change, brakes, and whatever other wear and tear.
Now some would say that "well, if I buy, I have something at the end" Well you aren't likely 90 years old and deciding it is about time to throw in the driving towel. If that were the case, buy, but if you needing another car after 7 years, and let's take for example a 2009 mdx (7years old) with 85k miles on it, the value of that car is only 15-17k realistically. You will need to take that money and buy a new car again. And pay another $54k if you bought same mdx and kept for another 7 years. Your out of pocket, for this mdx example, is always going to be more to buy. Now if you keep car 8 years, then it's a close call, and/or if you put 18k miles a year on or more. But I believe 8 years it still favor you to lease this car. Again, at the price per month I got it for versus buying it.
Another point worth noting is if interest rates go up dramatically over the course of those 7 years and 3 cars, then buying outright will likely close the gap and be a better avenue. For now, it's not the case.
@docfroid - you can't always assume that the same lease deal is going to be available. Right now money is dirt cheap and residuals are high. It makes for some interesting lease deals.
But "things" do happen. Back in 2007 I leased a new X3 for my wife. $0 Cap Cost Reduction - 36 months - 15K miles per year - $471.67 per month. When the lease was up in 2010, there was some crazy economic stuff going on (to put it mildly). The leasing companies had gotten beat by their high, inflated residuals, so they set their residuals to more pedestrian levels. Residuals go down, lease payments go up. If I were to have leased another X3 in 2010, it would have cost me well over $600 per month.
There are quite a few ways to look at this. You lease at $595 per month for 3 years - total lease payments $21,420. Residual is $30,293.40. $0 Down
If you were to finance with $0 down for 60 months, without interest (I can't do that off the top of my head), your payment would be $891.66. So figure $930 per month with interest? After 36 months you'd have paid $33,480 & owe just over 22K on an SUV that's worth $30K (maybe more) with just 2 year to go until you own it free & clear instead of resetting the leasing clock. Driving 12K per year means you still have 1 full year left on Acura's 4 year/50K warranty.
Now yes, the $300 per month difference between leasing & financing makes a difference. If you are disciplined & put that $300 per month away, you'll have $10,800.
Just offering an alternate viewpoint.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
@docfroid - you can't always assume that the same lease deal is going to be available. Right now money is dirt cheap and residuals are high. It makes for some interesting lease deals.
But "things" do happen. Back in 2007 I leased a new X3 for my wife. $0 Cap Cost Reduction - 36 months - 15K miles per year - $471.67 per month. When the lease was up in 2010, there was some crazy economic stuff going on (to put it mildly). The leasing companies had gotten beat by their high, inflated residuals, so they set their residuals to more pedestrian levels. Residuals go down, lease payments go up. If I were to have leased another X3 in 2010, it would have cost me well over $600 per month.
There are quite a few ways to look at this. You lease at $595 per month for 3 years - total lease payments $21,420. Residual is $30,293.40. $0 Down
If you were to finance with $0 down for 60 months, without interest (I can't do that off the top of my head), your payment would be $891.66. So figure $930 per month with interest? After 36 months you'd have paid $33,480 & owe just over 22K on an SUV that's worth $30K (maybe more) with just 2 year to go until you own it free & clear instead of resetting the leasing clock. Driving 12K per year means you still have 1 full year left on Acura's 4 year/50K warranty.
Now yes, the $300 per month difference between leasing & financing makes a difference. If you are disciplined & put that $300 per month away, you'll have $10,800.
Just offering an alternate viewpoint.
Definitely appreciate the viewpoint. I ran some of that math above. $52,109.35 over 60 months at Acura's 2.99% equals $936 per month. After 3 full years I'd have paid $33,696, and owe $20,900.
Again though, the only numbers that matter are what I am paying upfront, and over the given period of time I feel I will keep the car. The numbers for this mdx weighed heavily towards a lease versus buy. When I get to 3 years from now, and the market is still great for leases, I'll lease. Likely volatility is vehicle specific. If that is the situation and I need to move to different high vehicle residual. So be it. If there is no vehicle I like that makes sense, I buy the Mdx I leased (which basically broke even or possibly saved me $ versus buying upfront) and go back to leasing when it makes sense again for me.
As long as we have the numbers and do the right math, we can't make a wrong decision when we need a new car. That's comforting.
Not to stick my nose into your conversation, but I want to point out that Acura's 2.99% is not a good rate right now. I can get 2% from Bank of America or 2.25% with USAA. I'm sure there are other rates out there that are just as good, if not better. If you factor in an interest rate of 1% better than what you quoted above, your total cost will be different. Also, unlike with a lease, you could make a down payment and then not have to pay the 2% interest on that.
Even if we factor in a loan at 0% interest. The car is still $52,109.35. If I keep the car 7 years. That is my 7 year price, without maintenance outside of oil changes. My lease, if I can keep the $595 with each subsequent lease for same cost vehicle, my 7 year cost is $49,980. $2k+ less than purchasing. And again, without cost of new tires, something breaking etc. The difference would grow.
Factor in some kind of interest on the loan, or any down payment, and buying is even worse bc I could have gained interest on that $ or not paid it over time.
So, at the end of 7 years lease you still have nothing left, vs me, who paid it off and got to keep realistically 14-16k in the car's residual value? Of course, you would drive a 3-4 years newer MDX than I would. But thats just what lease is good for - driving newer cars all the time for more money. I did look at my previous leases and buys - cars that I had bought in the past were invariably cheaper at the end than leases - no exception. And as far as gaining interst on your money - we all know that you could have lost it as easily. Unless you are talking about less than 1% interest most of the banks were generously offering lately. As far as mechanical issues - we are talking about Acura here after all - most of the time those are problems free for 6-7 years easily. I wouldnt be so sure with german counterparts, but their leases are much higher also - last time I checked.
@docfroid - Question for you. The $15K you say you have that you want to put down if you finance the MDX, is it trade in equity or do you have it sitting in a savings account? Just curious.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Even if we factor in a loan at 0% interest. The car is still $52,109.35. If I keep the car 7 years. That is my 7 year price, without maintenance outside of oil changes. My lease, if I can keep the $595 with each subsequent lease for same cost vehicle, my 7 year cost is $49,980. $2k+ less than purchasing. And again, without cost of new tires, something breaking etc. The difference would grow.
Factor in some kind of interest on the loan, or any down payment, and buying is even worse bc I could have gained interest on that $ or not paid it over time.
But at the end of the 7 years, you could sell the car (that you now own outright) for much more than $2000. Or, you could keep driving it. If you drive it for another year. If you figure 8 years of lease payments at $595, you are at over $57,000...but the purchase price was only $52k.
Of course, we haven't factored in repairs, so who knows.
I think the real question is whether or not you want to be driving a new car or not. If you want a new car every few years, it makes sense to lease. If you don't mind driving an older car, you will come out ahead because you could sell the car or keep driving it without having payments.
I am new and potential buyer for 2016 MDX. I got a quote from dealer w/SH-AWD Advance + Entertainment + Acura advaced runing board for $0 down and $650/month (tax included) for 12K miles/year from dealer. 15kmiles/yr is $690/month and $0 down. The dealership offers $1000 conquest and that's how the dealership said $0 out of pocket.
I am new and potential buyer for 2016 MDX. I got a quote from dealer w/SH-AWD Advance + Entertainment + Acura advaced runing board for $0 down and $650/month (tax included) for 12K miles/year from dealer. 15kmiles/yr is $690/month and $0 down. The dealership offers $1000 conquest and that's how the dealership said $0 out of pocket.
Is this a good deal? Thank you.
On the surface, no.
Read back through the last page or two of this discussion to see what others are able to negotiate.
Please also provide us the MSRP and net cap cost (selling price + fees and taxes).
The MDX SH AWD w/Advance and Entertainment package. MSRP is $58,020 + dealer accessories Acura advance running board $699 = $58,719.
Dealsr discount = $4,540
lease term: 1) 3 yrs 36k miles $650/month (tax included) and $0 down. 2) 3 yrs 45k miles $590/month (tax included) and $0 down.
$1000 as conquest discount.
may I know if this is a good deal?
Thank you.
36 month, 15,000 miles per year lease numbers are .00044 and 56%.
Using $58,020 as the MSRP and $53,480 as the net cap cost, I calculate a payment of $677/mo with 9% tax and $0 down. So, your quote of $590/mo looks good by comparison.
Even if we factor in a loan at 0% interest. The car is still $52,109.35. If I keep the car 7 years. That is my 7 year price, without maintenance outside of oil changes. My lease, if I can keep the $595 with each subsequent lease for same cost vehicle, my 7 year cost is $49,980. $2k+ less than purchasing. And again, without cost of new tires, something breaking etc. The difference would grow.
Factor in some kind of interest on the loan, or any down payment, and buying is even worse bc I could have gained interest on that $ or not paid it over time.
But at the end of the 7 years, you could sell the car (that you now own outright) for much more than $2000. Or, you could keep driving it. If you drive it for another year. If you figure 8 years of lease payments at $595, you are at over $57,000...but the purchase price was only $52k..
We actually can't use the "I can sell the car for what it's worth" statement. And here is why, per my emails above. In my real world examples, the car still cost you $52k and change with no loan/interest. If you kept car 7 years that car still cost you $52k. Now, the value say is $17k at end of 7 years. But if you take that $17k and put towards your next new car, and that car cost same $52k, you'll need to put that money or some $17k into still spend 52k for another 7 years
Looking for payments. MDX SH AWD with tech. Msrp 49960.00 selling price 45483.00. 15k miles per year. 36 or 39 months whatever the special maybe. State of Texas..... The other will be mdx fwd with Acura watch plus msrp 45260 selling 41000. Both 15k per year. Thank you very much
Looking for payments. MDX SH AWD with tech. Msrp 49960.00 selling price 45483.00. 15k miles per year. 36 or 39 months whatever the special maybe. State of Texas..... The other will be mdx fwd with Acura watch plus msrp 45260 selling 41000. Both 15k per year. Thank you very much
Tech - .00060 and 56% (36/15) AWPlus - .00044 and 56% (36/15)
If the selling price is the net cap cost, I get $530/mo + tax for the AWD Tech, and $464/mo + tax for the FWD AWPlus.
Hi, I'm looking at leasing a 2016 MDX SH AWD in Virginia (36/15). Looking at a vehicle with the Tech package and with the Tech & AW+. What are the MF and residual? Thank you!
Hi, I'm looking at leasing a 2016 MDX SH AWD in Virginia (36/15). Looking at a vehicle with the Tech package and with the Tech & AW+. What are the MF and residual? Thank you!
.00060 MF and 56% residual for Tech
.00044 MF and 56% residual for AW (plus $500 lease cash)
Hi, I'm looking at leasing a 2016 MDX SH AWD in Virginia (36/15). Looking at a vehicle with the Tech package and with the Tech & AW+. What are the MF and residual? Thank you!
.00060 MF and 56% residual for Tech
.00044 MF and 56% residual for AW (plus $500 lease cash)
Thanks very much. I've just begun the back and forth with the dealers but for the Tech&AW+ MSRP is $50k and the price is $47,300 (before taxes (VA is 4.1%), etc).
In the online calculators, is the residual value calculated as the MSRP times the residual percent? Using these numbers, the calculator gave me $676 as a monthly payment, which seems high. I'm totally new to this but I've been learning on the go reading this helpful thread.
Hi, I'm looking at leasing a 2016 MDX SH AWD in Virginia (36/15). Looking at a vehicle with the Tech package and with the Tech & AW+. What are the MF and residual? Thank you!
.00060 MF and 56% residual for Tech
.00044 MF and 56% residual for AW (plus $500 lease cash)
A dealer in Northern Virginia is using an MF of .0017 for the AWD Tech/AW+, MSRP of $51,430, with an OTD price of $49,266. $0 down, monthly payment of $703. A terrible deal I think considering the MF you provided.
I am about to lease an Acura MDX 2016 AWD with advance and entertainment package. My dealer is offering the .00044 money factor and 56% residual for 36/15k lease. He is offering the conquest cash since I own a Mercedes. I am getting the car $750 above invoice and conquest cash on top of that. My question is if anyone knows about hidden dealer lease cash or kickback from Acura? Every other brand had cash incentives in December. Why should I lease a car in December if there are no special incentives? Is this a good deal? Thanks!
I am about to lease an Acura MDX 2016 AWD with advance and entertainment package. My dealer is offering the .00044 money factor and 56% residual for 36/15k lease. He is offering the conquest cash since I own a Mercedes. I am getting the car $750 above invoice and conquest cash on top of that. My question is if anyone knows about hidden dealer lease cash or kickback from Acura? Every other brand had cash incentives in December. Why should I lease a car in December if there are no special incentives? Is this a good deal? Thanks!
Hi, I'm looking at leasing a 2016 MDX SH AWD in Virginia (36/15). Looking at a vehicle with the Tech package and with the Tech & AW+. What are the MF and residual? Thank you!
.00060 MF and 56% residual for Tech
.00044 MF and 56% residual for AW (plus $500 lease cash)
A dealer in Northern Virginia is using an MF of .0017 for the AWD Tech/AW+, MSRP of $51,430, with an OTD price of $49,266. $0 down, monthly payment of $703. A terrible deal I think considering the MF you provided.
I've been going back and forth with the dealership. They dropped the MF down to .0015 and knocked another $300 off the price of the vehicle. They aren't even coming close to the .00044 quoted here - is the .00044 from Acura Financial Services? Thank you for the assistance.
Hi, I'm looking at leasing a 2016 MDX SH AWD in Virginia (36/15). Looking at a vehicle with the Tech package and with the Tech & AW+. What are the MF and residual? Thank you!
.00060 MF and 56% residual for Tech
.00044 MF and 56% residual for AW (plus $500 lease cash)
A dealer in Northern Virginia is using an MF of .0017 for the AWD Tech/AW+, MSRP of $51,430, with an OTD price of $49,266. $0 down, monthly payment of $703. A terrible deal I think considering the MF you provided.
I've been going back and forth with the dealership. They dropped the MF down to .0015 and knocked another $300 off the price of the vehicle. They aren't even coming close to the .00044 quoted here - is the .00044 from Acura Financial Services? Thank you for the assistance.
The only lease numbers we have are from AFS. Confirm with your bank that's who they are using, as well.
Hi, I'm looking at leasing a 2016 MDX SH AWD in Virginia (36/15). Looking at a vehicle with the Tech package and with the Tech & AW+. What are the MF and residual? Thank you!
.00060 MF and 56% residual for Tech
.00044 MF and 56% residual for AW (plus $500 lease cash)
A dealer in Northern Virginia is using an MF of .0017 for the AWD Tech/AW+, MSRP of $51,430, with an OTD price of $49,266. $0 down, monthly payment of $703. A terrible deal I think considering the MF you provided.
I've been going back and forth with the dealership. They dropped the MF down to .0015 and knocked another $300 off the price of the vehicle. They aren't even coming close to the .00044 quoted here - is the .00044 from Acura Financial Services? Thank you for the assistance.
The only lease numbers we have are from AFS. Confirm with your bank that's who they are using, as well.
That's what I thought. He was using the "worst case scenario" MF but since I have excellent credit, he confirmed the .00044. I've been talking with another dealer who also confirmed that rate off the bat.
Residual I think was 58% for 36mo/12k miles. Cannot remember the MF, they were pulling straight from Acura.
I was thinking about putting down between 4 - 5k to cover the tax and fees and try to lower the cap cost to make payment under 500. They gave me a table based on down payment what the payment would be.
4000 Down - 554 to 564 a month 5000 down - 472 to 482 a month
Any suggestions? Dealer didn't want to budge much more on the purchase price. Tried to say I would buy a certain car on the lot if they would throw in the added options for free but they didn't budge on that either. (Was roof rack and the cross members)
Residual I think was 58% for 36mo/12k miles. Cannot remember the MF, they were pulling straight from Acura.
I was thinking about putting down between 4 - 5k to cover the tax and fees and try to lower the cap cost to make payment under 500. They gave me a table based on down payment what the payment would be.
4000 Down - 554 to 564 a month 5000 down - 472 to 482 a month
Any suggestions? Dealer didn't want to budge much more on the purchase price. Tried to say I would buy a certain car on the lot if they would throw in the added options for free but they didn't budge on that either. (Was roof rack and the cross members)
.00060 MF and 58% residual.
Where do you live? That tax looks like it's for a purchase, not a lease.
The "tables" they give you don't really give you the lease information. You need to know the tax on a lease, and the adjusted CAP cost. No point in making a down-payment to get the payment down. Might as well keep that money in your pocket and pay as you go.
Where do you live? That tax looks like it's for a purchase, not a lease.
The "tables" they give you don't really give you the lease information. You need to know the tax on a lease, and the adjusted CAP cost. No point in making a down-payment to get the payment down. Might as well keep that money in your pocket and pay as you go.
Upstate NY. Tax in this county is 7%. I'm not sure where they are getting the value from.
How is tax calculated? Is it the (final cap cost or initial cap cost - Residual value ) *7%
~2,500 down (tax, registration, first month payment)
I started out just looking to see how much I could lease a MDX for (without needing a new car), but I feel like this deal is too good to pass up?
Bump; with today being the end of the month, this offer is contingent on the deal closing today. Any insight?
What is the MSRP? Lease term and miles per year?
Ah, sorry for leaving that out. MSRP 51,410; 36 months/15k per year.
I'm within $1 of your quote, so the numbers check out.
That's a pretty strong discount from sticker on what is a (relatively) new car.
Thanks for checking the numbers. I didn't think I could get close to $500/month (with $0 capitalized cost reduction from me) for this trim when I started a few days ago but here we are. Two dealerships in particular have almost been falling over themselves trying to sell.
~2,500 down (tax, registration, first month payment)
I started out just looking to see how much I could lease a MDX for (without needing a new car), but I feel like this deal is too good to pass up?
Bump; with today being the end of the month, this offer is contingent on the deal closing today. Any insight?
What is the MSRP? Lease term and miles per year?
Ah, sorry for leaving that out. MSRP 51,410; 36 months/15k per year.
I'm within $1 of your quote, so the numbers check out.
That's a pretty strong discount from sticker on what is a (relatively) new car.
Thanks for checking the numbers. I didn't think I could get close to $500/month (with $0 capitalized cost reduction from me) for this trim when I started a few days ago but here we are. Two dealerships in particular have almost been falling over themselves trying to sell.
Keep playing them off against one another. It's likely that they both need that 1 more sale to qualify for a volume bonus (end of month, end of quarter, end of year).
~2,500 down (tax, registration, first month payment)
I started out just looking to see how much I could lease a MDX for (without needing a new car), but I feel like this deal is too good to pass up?
Bump; with today being the end of the month, this offer is contingent on the deal closing today. Any insight?
What is the MSRP? Lease term and miles per year?
Ah, sorry for leaving that out. MSRP 51,410; 36 months/15k per year.
I'm within $1 of your quote, so the numbers check out.
That's a pretty strong discount from sticker on what is a (relatively) new car.
Thanks for checking the numbers. I didn't think I could get close to $500/month (with $0 capitalized cost reduction from me) for this trim when I started a few days ago but here we are. Two dealerships in particular have almost been falling over themselves trying to sell.
This looks like a great deal. You aren't by chance in Northern California are you? I'm looking to pull the trigger today if I can land something like that.
We have 2 more lease payments on our 2013 MDX which the lease is up 2/21. I'm looking at the favorable money factor and the year end opportunity. Does it generally make sense to pay those last 2 payments to get a better trade in in 2 months or look for the best deal now?
We have 2 more lease payments on our 2013 MDX which the lease is up 2/21. I'm looking at the favorable money factor and the year end opportunity. Does it generally make sense to pay those last 2 payments to get a better trade in in 2 months or look for the best deal now?
Suggestions?
How big are the payments? This close to lease end, you might be even or have a bit of positive equity, depending on the miles and condition of your '13.
I suppose it can't hurt to talk to the dealers and see what offers they throw your way.
Comments
* Nobody knows the actual price paid by the dealer to the manufacturer. Holdback, secret factory to dealer incentives and the like make it impossible for the public to determine this number. "Invoice" is just a published number.
* No dealer will make a deal where they are losing money. They may say that they are, but see the bullet point above. So, make your best offer - if the dealer accepts, then great. Could you have gotten a lower price? I suppose, but if you're comfortable with the price you're paying, that's all that matters.
* Supply and demand always play a role. There are some amazing deals to be had on certain cars (BMW i3 and Infiniti Q50 for under $300/mo). The MDX plays in a very competitive space, so if you can't make a deal you like, there are lots of other luxury SUV's to choose from.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Went to the dealer close to me and just brought the car home for $595 a month. 36 months/12k per year. No money down nor anything paid upfront. I felt good about this deal, and am happy.
Was a long road. $688, to $668 and can't go lower, to $624 and that is final, to $605, to $595....Wow.....thanks for all your help and saving me at least $73 a month for the 36 months!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Of course I didn't notice a gouge/scape in the passenger side wood trim near where that fake wood hits the plastic dash. Deep to where all the grain is gone. Now when I thought I was done I have to bring this up to them tomorrow and run the risk of them saying I took it off the lot so not their issue.
I think those pieces are easily replaceable but not sure....let you guys know how that goes tomorrow
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Its Zero down, no payment upfront. I should ask them for the adjusted CAP Cost.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
QUESTION:
So I ran the math, per the above, to see what my 5 year cost would be if I ran this lease for the 3 years, and then decided to buy the car for the $30,293.40 by then placing $15k down and taking out a 2 year loan. Total cost of lease payments are $595 x 36 plus the $93 down payment = $21,513. If I buy car at residual I need to add tax, 30,293.40 x 7% = $32,413.94. Is that how I'd do it or do I need to factor in what I paid in tax for the original price then do some other math?? Anyhow, if I use these numbers, then subtract my $15k down payment I get $17,413.94, and on a 2 year loan at 3.99%, the total loan cost is $18,147. So tha number plus by 21,513 in lease costs, plus my $15k = $54,660.
Versus
Financing upfront for 5 years at their special apr of 2.99 on the total. I adjusted total by taking the sales price of vehicle, $47938.01, and multiplying times the 7% nj sales tax plus the supplemental nj tax on cars over $40k of .44%. So. $3,566.59 in tax minus the lease tax of $1436.73 = $2,129.86. So I need to add that number to my lease net cap cost of $49979.49 which = $52,109.35. If I put $15k down, and at 60 months took that $37,109.35 at 2.99%, my total payments are $15k plus the total cost of loan at $39,998 = $54,998.
So does this mean that I could get the car cheaper by leasing then buying?? Or am I doing my math wrong? Maybe my used car interest rate is aggressive or I'm missing costs when buying car out?
But it seems like the advantages of leasing out way the little extra dollars I'd pay:
- no money out of pocket which means I can now invest that $15k elsewhere
- if car gets totaled or stolen I am out not much
- The car could also be worth more, meaning i could buy back and sell for more
- Or it could have less of a value compared to my buy out residual and I can negotiate a cheaper buy out, making this lease to buy even cheaper.
However, you will not be able to negotiate the buyout price at the end of the lease.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
If you've got $15K laying around that you don't know what to do with, you could always give it to me. I could find a good use for it (paint exterior of my house, new driveway, new deck...) LOL!
in all seriousness, as a rule of thumb if you are going to keep the car longer than 3 years, just buy it out right. With a truck like the MDX that holds its value very well, you can't go wrong by putting nothing down & financing it over 5 years. Then you can keep your $15K to invest, & not have to worry about paying the lease tax plus the tax when you buy the car out. Just make it easier on yourself. Just my humble opinion.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Now some would say that "well, if I buy, I have something at the end" Well you aren't likely 90 years old and deciding it is about time to throw in the driving towel. If that were the case, buy, but if you needing another car after 7 years, and let's take for example a 2009 mdx (7years old) with 85k miles on it, the value of that car is only 15-17k realistically. You will need to take that money and buy a new car again. And pay another $54k if you bought same mdx and kept for another 7 years. Your out of pocket, for this mdx example, is always going to be more to buy. Now if you keep car 8 years, then it's a close call, and/or if you put 18k miles a year on or more. But I believe 8 years it still favor you to lease this car. Again, at the price per month I got it for versus buying it.
Another point worth noting is if interest rates go up dramatically over the course of those 7 years and 3 cars, then buying outright will likely close the gap and be a better avenue. For now, it's not the case.
But "things" do happen. Back in 2007 I leased a new X3 for my wife. $0 Cap Cost Reduction - 36 months - 15K miles per year - $471.67 per month. When the lease was up in 2010, there was some crazy economic stuff going on (to put it mildly). The leasing companies had gotten beat by their high, inflated residuals, so they set their residuals to more pedestrian levels. Residuals go down, lease payments go up. If I were to have leased another X3 in 2010, it would have cost me well over $600 per month.
There are quite a few ways to look at this. You lease at $595 per month for 3 years - total lease payments $21,420. Residual is $30,293.40. $0 Down
If you were to finance with $0 down for 60 months, without interest (I can't do that off the top of my head), your payment would be $891.66. So figure $930 per month with interest? After 36 months you'd have paid $33,480 & owe just over 22K on an SUV that's worth $30K (maybe more) with just 2 year to go until you own it free & clear instead of resetting the leasing clock. Driving 12K per year means you still have 1 full year left on Acura's 4 year/50K warranty.
Now yes, the $300 per month difference between leasing & financing makes a difference. If you are disciplined & put that $300 per month away, you'll have $10,800.
Just offering an alternate viewpoint.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Again though, the only numbers that matter are what I am paying upfront, and over the given period of time I feel I will keep the car. The numbers for this mdx weighed heavily towards a lease versus buy. When I get to 3 years from now, and the market is still great for leases, I'll lease. Likely volatility is vehicle specific. If that is the situation and I need to move to different high vehicle residual. So be it. If there is no vehicle I like that makes sense, I buy the Mdx I leased (which basically broke even or possibly saved me $ versus buying upfront) and go back to leasing when it makes sense again for me.
As long as we have the numbers and do the right math, we can't make a wrong decision when we need a new car. That's comforting.
Factor in some kind of interest on the loan, or any down payment, and buying is even worse bc I could have gained interest on that $ or not paid it over time.
I did look at my previous leases and buys - cars that I had bought in the past were invariably cheaper at the end than leases - no exception.
And as far as gaining interst on your money - we all know that you could have lost it as easily. Unless you are talking about less than 1% interest most of the banks were generously offering lately.
As far as mechanical issues - we are talking about Acura here after all - most of the time those are problems free for 6-7 years easily. I wouldnt be so sure with german counterparts, but their leases are much higher also - last time I checked.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Of course, we haven't factored in repairs, so who knows.
I think the real question is whether or not you want to be driving a new car or not. If you want a new car every few years, it makes sense to lease. If you don't mind driving an older car, you will come out ahead because you could sell the car or keep driving it without having payments.
I am new and potential buyer for 2016 MDX.
I got a quote from dealer w/SH-AWD Advance + Entertainment + Acura advaced runing board for $0 down and $650/month (tax included) for 12K miles/year from dealer. 15kmiles/yr is $690/month and $0 down. The dealership offers $1000 conquest and that's how the dealership said $0 out of pocket.
Is this a good deal? Thank you.
Read back through the last page or two of this discussion to see what others are able to negotiate.
Please also provide us the MSRP and net cap cost (selling price + fees and taxes).
What lease term is this?
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
The MDX SH AWD w/Advance and Entertainment package. MSRP is $58,020 + dealer accessories Acura advance running board $699 = $58,719.
Dealsr discount = $4,540
lease term:
1) 3 yrs 36k miles
$650/month (tax included) and $0 down.
2) 3 yrs 45k miles
$590/month (tax included) and $0 down.
$1000 as conquest discount.
may I know if this is a good deal?
Thank you.
Using $58,020 as the MSRP and $53,480 as the net cap cost, I calculate a payment of $677/mo with 9% tax and $0 down. So, your quote of $590/mo looks good by comparison.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
AWPlus - .00044 and 56% (36/15)
If the selling price is the net cap cost, I get $530/mo + tax for the AWD Tech, and $464/mo + tax for the FWD AWPlus.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
.00044 MF and 56% residual for AW (plus $500 lease cash)
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In the online calculators, is the residual value calculated as the MSRP times the residual percent? Using these numbers, the calculator gave me $676 as a monthly payment, which seems high. I'm totally new to this but I've been learning on the go reading this helpful thread.
Acura has had no problem selling or leasing every MDX they can make; no need for them to add extra incentives to move them.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Is it still 59% and 0.00044? I think it was last month.
Also - Two questions below:
1. How does $500 lease bonus cash and conquest cash work? Does it reduce Net Cap Cost?
2. Does Acura still offer one pay option? If so, what would be the reduction in MF?
Thanks always!
Lease cash can be used to reduce net cap cost, or to offset up front costs (bank fee, dealer fee, etc.)
.00001 MF for one-pay leases
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
2016 MDX SH-AWD w/ Tech
MSRP 50210
Rebates: 3033.00
Cap Cost: 47177.00
Tax 7%: 3372.39
Doc Fee: 75.00
DMV Fee: 10.00
Tire Fee: 12.50
Net Sale price: 50646.89
Residual I think was 58% for 36mo/12k miles.
Cannot remember the MF, they were pulling straight from Acura.
I was thinking about putting down between 4 - 5k to cover the tax and fees and try to lower the cap cost to make payment under 500. They gave me a table based on down payment what the payment would be.
4000 Down - 554 to 564 a month
5000 down - 472 to 482 a month
Any suggestions? Dealer didn't want to budge much more on the purchase price. Tried to say I would buy a certain car on the lot if they would throw in the added options for free but they didn't budge on that either. (Was roof rack and the cross members)
'16 AWD with Tech & AW+
Sales price $44,061
Fees $1,745 (destination, acquisition, etc)
Gross Capitalized Cost $45,806
MF .00044
Residual 56%
Monthly Payment $506
~2,500 down (tax, registration, first month payment)
I started out just looking to see how much I could lease a MDX for (without needing a new car), but I feel like this deal is too good to pass up?
Where do you live? That tax looks like it's for a purchase, not a lease.
The "tables" they give you don't really give you the lease information. You need to know the tax on a lease, and the adjusted CAP cost. No point in making a down-payment to get the payment down. Might as well keep that money in your pocket and pay as you go.
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How is tax calculated? Is it the (final cap cost or initial cap cost - Residual value ) *7%
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
That's a pretty strong discount from sticker on what is a (relatively) new car.
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Suggestions?
I suppose it can't hurt to talk to the dealers and see what offers they throw your way.
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