I'd be interested in hearing from others that have bought since June 28th. If your payout includes the full buyback, or if it's minus half of the modification money?
Obviously not in the buying group, but been following some other boards and the consensus is if you bought after 6/28 you are only being offered 50% initially - at least until after the eligible sellers window closes and they see how much has been used up.
That was in the back of my mind, that it might change after the 45 days are up.
But, I didn't own the car when the crap hit the fan, so it's hard to complain about it. If it bumps up, that would be awesome.
my $27k number is half the restitution. Previous owner was the dealership, from what I can tell, so it is possible I'll get all, but I'm certainly not counting on it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
To clarify, I think the buyback amount if it was purchased before 6/28 would be close to 22k - but you'd only be entitled to half of the restitution, which would make your price more like $19k.
To clarify, I think the buyback amount if it was purchased before 6/28 would be close to 22k - but you'd only be entitled to half of the restitution, which would make your price more like $19k.
$3k profit on an approximate $16K investment is still almost 19%.
I wouldn't count on it being 60 days. More like 90 days at the minimum, and probably closer to the end of the year.
Yeah, they are likely going to have a solid backlog for a while on this, so I'm planning to own it for upwards of a year (hopefully not longer, and assuming, of course, that all goes well in the next 48 hours).
I noticed that there is a Golf in the Anchorage area for sale, and sorta thinking about buying that one, too. The margin is a lot slimmer (~$3K), but my real hesitancy is that I don't really like the car at all.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
We have personal property tax that is levied on any car that you own on January 1st. So, if it gets bought before then, great. But, if I own it on 01/01/2017, and am on the hook for $300, then I'll probably keep it at least 6 more months.
Q, what do you think for a 2014 Golf TDI 4 door with DSG, 25k miles in the Seattle area?
Dealer is asking 17k, but just reduced the price. Feels a bit high - maybe by $1500-$2000. What say you?
About $22K buyback, if you only get half of the mod money.
Isn't tax 9.8% there? Need to get it down to $15,500, to get OTD for $17K. That's where I would want to be.
My thought exactly. This dealer is a real schlockhouse though, and I don't want to waste my time if its actually worth that much.
This link downloads a PDF file which is basically a powerpoint slide presentation. Open the file separately in Adobe reader after you download, works better than in your web browser.
Slide 7 explains class members and shows vehicles purchased 9/18/2015 - 12/30/2018 are eligible for owners. Slide 24 deals with totaled vehicles Slide 27 deals with Eligible Seller Formula
Looking over the agreement again, I don't think that anyone who purchased a vehicle after 6/28/16 is eligible to receive any of the 50% "eligible seller" pool of funds. Only people who purchased between 9/18/15 and 6/28/16 fall into this category. The group is called "Post-September 2015 Owner Restitution."
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
So on the 2013 Sportwagen I offered 13,7 OTD and they balked - holding firm around 15k. I'm torn - I have a problem with overpaying on a car on principal, but I'd still clear a decent amount after tax.
Henry had me worried for a bit with the presentation slide (#24), but I had to remind myself that this was just some presentation whipped together to try and summarize everything. And, it isn't fully accurate, so that's good. The actual legal document uses the term "Operable" in place of other interpretations like "totalled" or "clean title," etc. (Section VII.F addresses the subject of the presentation's slide 24).
And, of course, the document has a clear definition of operable: "Operable means that the vehicle so described can be driven under its own 2.0-liter TDI engine power."
The additional "gotcha" clause of title branding is point-in-time specific rather than all-encompassing: "A vehicle is not Operable if it had a branded title of “Assembled,” “Dismantled,” “Flood,” “Junk,” “Rebuilt,” “Reconstructed,” or “Salvaged” on September 18, 2015, and was acquired by any person or entity from a junkyard or salvage yard after September 18, 2015." Were this not the case, and branded titles were fully excluded, it would simply say,"A vehicle is not Operable if it has a branded title, including “Assembled,” “Dismantled,” “Flood,” “Junk,” “Rebuilt,” “Reconstructed,” or “Salvaged," rather than saying it had to have a branded title on/before 9/18/15 AND be acquired from a salvage/junk yard after that date.
I can find no other place in legal document where Operable is further restricted or defined.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I think if the title is branded, the vehicle will be deemed ineligible.
But, that's just one person's opinion.
Yeah, I heard that one here before. I have yet to see anyone post support for that from the terms of the settlement, though. What am I missing in there? If there's something there, I really would like to know about it since I am about to buy an affected car tomorrow......
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
Numerous places within the settlement documentation, it references branded titles being explicitly excluded. Now there is an argument to be made, from the documentation, that it is based upon dates and how you acquired the vehicle, but I would not be intentionally going out and buying a branded title car to try and sell back.
I think odds are better than not that you'll have to put up quite a fight with VW that could cost more than the restitution.
Well, I'm not intentionally buying a branded title car, it is just the only eligible one that is available to me (and really nice, to boot).
Okay, so I searched documents for references to branded title, clean title, etc. Not one mention other than the statement I quoted above. It is possible that there would be an argument to the contrary, but, heck, VW's settlement site FAQ itself states verbatim the agreement: Who is excluded from participating in the class action settlement? As such, if I possess documentation that supports the timing of events, the car is clearly *not* excluded.
That said, this may be a non-starter anyway. I just received a call from the seller saying he made an alternate commitment this weekend due to an emergency, so we'd have to try again in a week (if at all, is how I read his tone! LOL).
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
So on the 2013 Sportwagen I offered 13,7 OTD and they balked - holding firm around 15k. I'm torn - I have a problem with overpaying on a car on principal, but I'd still clear a decent amount after tax.
Meet in the middle?
'21 BMW X3 M40i, '15 Audi S4, '16 Audi TTS, Wife's '19 VW Tiguan SEL 4-Motion
Searching 500 miles for a gaz guzzling Golf R I find many with sticks, none with DSG. The people have spoken and voted with their wallets. DSG > 6- speed manual.
'21 BMW X3 M40i, '15 Audi S4, '16 Audi TTS, Wife's '19 VW Tiguan SEL 4-Motion
This one is quite lovely. I just can't see going through the effort of getting it, though, knowing that I wouldn't be keeping it long! Given all the logistics of doing so, I'm not sure the margin is really worth it as well. When I strictly look at is as ROI, it's pretty solid, then I factor in the time involved, and I think, "Do I *really* want to do this?"
That's one of the things that makes the "local" car so appealing despite its history: The logistics are just so much simpler! Price (and buyback value) wise, the spread isn't huge between the two.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
Totally beautiful vehicle and love the beige interior, so much nicer than black. looks a lot cleaner also. This one should go fast if it does meet the buy back criteria. Too bad I don't have the stomach to flip these vehicles or a wife who "gets it"! Like some others in here, if bought right, one stands to make a decent profit while driving a nice vehicle around for some time. One just needs the excess cash and the stomach to live with a certain amount of risk. I can definitely see the logic especially if the plan is to just let VW just buy it back from you. One could just park their d d and use the diesel VW they bought just for this purpose. Like I said, just wish I could do it also!
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
Totally beautiful vehicle and love the beige interior, so much nicer than black. looks a lot cleaner also. This one should go fast if it does meet the buy back criteria. Too bad I don't have the stomach to flip these vehicles or a wife who "gets it"! Like some others in here, if bought right, one stands to make a decent profit while driving a nice vehicle around for some time. One just needs the excess cash and the stomach to live with a certain amount of risk. I can definitely see the logic especially if the plan is to just let VW just buy it back from you. One could just park their d d and use the diesel VW they bought just for this purpose. Like I said, just wish I could do it also!
The Sandman
You're not helping my case, Sandy! I just checked out flight options and am strongly considering contacting the dealership. LOL
What I need is a friend in the area. I buy it from here, they pick it up and hold it for me. Then, I'm just in it for the transaction and there is no emotional attachment. I have a BIL on the other side of the state, as well as a friend in Des Moines, but I'm not sure either are close enough to be down with this adventure.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
xwesx, I love the colors on that one. Expect a difficult time from customs and border protection if you drive it back (I will spare you the tale about driving a rented car from Seattle to Vancouver, but suffice it to say I won't be making another trip there).
I think I'm going to give it a go. My wife said, "I'd just go with the one in Wasilla, but if you're more comfortable with getting that Ohio car, I'm fine with it. Call Steve (her brother) and have him pick it up for you if you're just going to do the buyback." LOL Who is this woman again?
As far as driving through Canada, the trick is to get the title transfer paperwork sent to you first, then you have plates in hand and registration when you go to pick it up. They slap the plates on before you even leave the dealership! I've never dealt with a dealership in the midwest before, but I've had no trouble with that on the west coast (yet). I'll give them a call tomorrow and see if we can work something out.
Q, what's a reasonable price on this one? I was thinking right along the lines of @kyfdx; About $17-17.5K.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I think I'm going to give it a go. My wife said, "I'd just go with the one in Wasilla, but if you're more comfortable with getting that Ohio car, I'm fine with it. Call Steve (her brother) and have him pick it up for you if you're just going to do the buyback." LOL Who is this woman again?
As far as driving through Canada, the trick is to get the title transfer paperwork sent to you first, then you have plates in hand and registration when you go to pick it up. They slap the plates on before you even leave the dealership! I've never dealt with a dealership in the midwest before, but I've had no trouble with that on the west coast (yet). I'll give them a call tomorrow and see if we can work something out.
Q, what's a reasonable price on this one? I was thinking right along the lines of @kyfdx; About $17-17.5K.
Doc fee in Ohio is restricted by statute to $250. So, naturally, every dealer in Ohio charges $250. Just so you know what will be added. The rest of it.. temporary tags, title, etc should only be $30-$50 or so.
You really want to see the CARFAX, just so you can see what ownership the car has had.
Just missed out on a 1 owner 2014 JSW Sportwagen TDI with Sunroof and 20k miles for $14,9 at a dealer in Jersey. I called to buy it and I missed it by 5 minutes! After tax and shipping I would have cleared 9k...
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But, I didn't own the car when the crap hit the fan, so it's hard to complain about it. If it bumps up, that would be awesome.
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What's this worth as a purchase, and what's the buyback amount?
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/673887804/overview/
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Buyback looks to be about $22.7k.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Registration (damn that personal property tax in CO!) and insurance for a month or two is another $500 or so, and I'm into it for less than $16K.
$6K profit in 60 days (or whenever)?
How do I convince my wife to let me spend the money from our savings account?
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
And, I just quit the pizza job.
But, it could pay for the custom home office we're talking about.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
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I noticed that there is a Golf in the Anchorage area for sale, and sorta thinking about buying that one, too. The margin is a lot slimmer (~$3K), but my real hesitancy is that I don't really like the car at all.
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Dealer is asking 17k, but just reduced the price. Feels a bit high - maybe by $1500-$2000. What say you?
Isn't tax 9.8% there? Need to get it down to $15,500, to get OTD for $17K. That's where I would want to be.
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https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/674725442/overview/
Asking $16K, buyback with half the MOD money is over $23K.
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https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/671885540/overview/
$10.5K asking, $19K buyout
(not for the faint of heart)
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For an $8K payday, you just park it, until the buyout
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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Disclosure: I did it on the fly in my head.
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Well, except for backing out half of the modification.
https://agrahamg.github.io/VWBuybackCalculator/
I get (for Indiana, 2014 Jetta Sportwagen, no options, 148k miles, 10 months)
$20,147 buyback, with $5,847 modification. Divide the modification by 2, gives $2,923.50, subtract that from $20,147 and you're left with $17,223.50
This link downloads a PDF file which is basically a powerpoint slide presentation. Open the file separately in Adobe reader after you download, works better than in your web browser.
Slide 7 explains class members and shows vehicles purchased 9/18/2015 - 12/30/2018 are eligible for owners.
Slide 24 deals with totaled vehicles
Slide 27 deals with Eligible Seller Formula
And, of course, the document has a clear definition of operable: "Operable means that the vehicle so described can be driven under its own 2.0-liter TDI engine power."
The additional "gotcha" clause of title branding is point-in-time specific rather than all-encompassing: "A vehicle is not Operable if it had a branded title of “Assembled,” “Dismantled,” “Flood,” “Junk,” “Rebuilt,” “Reconstructed,” or “Salvaged” on September 18, 2015, and was acquired by any person or entity from a junkyard or salvage yard after September 18, 2015." Were this not the case, and branded titles were fully excluded, it would simply say,"A vehicle is not Operable if it has a branded title, including “Assembled,” “Dismantled,” “Flood,” “Junk,” “Rebuilt,” “Reconstructed,” or “Salvaged," rather than saying it had to have a branded title on/before 9/18/15 AND be acquired from a salvage/junk yard after that date.
I can find no other place in legal document where Operable is further restricted or defined.
But, that's just one person's opinion.
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I think odds are better than not that you'll have to put up quite a fight with VW that could cost more than the restitution.
Okay, so I searched documents for references to branded title, clean title, etc. Not one mention other than the statement I quoted above. It is possible that there would be an argument to the contrary, but, heck, VW's settlement site FAQ itself states verbatim the agreement: Who is excluded from participating in the class action settlement? As such, if I possess documentation that supports the timing of events, the car is clearly *not* excluded.
That said, this may be a non-starter anyway. I just received a call from the seller saying he made an alternate commitment this weekend due to an emergency, so we'd have to try again in a week (if at all, is how I read his tone! LOL).
That's one of the things that makes the "local" car so appealing despite its history: The logistics are just so much simpler! Price (and buyback value) wise, the spread isn't huge between the two.
Like I said, just wish I could do it also!
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
What I need is a friend in the area. I buy it from here, they pick it up and hold it for me. Then, I'm just in it for the transaction and there is no emotional attachment. I have a BIL on the other side of the state, as well as a friend in Des Moines, but I'm not sure either are close enough to be down with this adventure.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
It really bugs me when they don't have a link to the carfax.
$6K spread, minus sales tax and acquisition costs. If you could get $1000-$1500 off that price, not bad.
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As far as driving through Canada, the trick is to get the title transfer paperwork sent to you first, then you have plates in hand and registration when you go to pick it up. They slap the plates on before you even leave the dealership! I've never dealt with a dealership in the midwest before, but I've had no trouble with that on the west coast (yet). I'll give them a call tomorrow and see if we can work something out.
Q, what's a reasonable price on this one? I was thinking right along the lines of @kyfdx; About $17-17.5K.
You really want to see the CARFAX, just so you can see what ownership the car has had.
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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S