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2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have no clue if this is legal and I don't know who the people are that had the tank installed but I like their idea. Everyone in the Co-op chips in to buy the fuel and from what I understand the storage tank has paid for itself.
However this isn't all that new, farmers in the Imperial valley have been storing their own fuel for years.
Hmm... I have a clue... :surprise:
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I have no clue of this is legal and I don't know who the people are that had the tank installed but I like their idea. everyone in the Co-op chips in to buy the fuel and from what I understand the storage tank has paid for itself.
However this isn't all that new, farmers in the Imperial valley have been storing their own fuel for years.
Seems like NAFTA also ensures it remains legal?
If all the reselling inside USA isn't legal, which law is being violated?
Maybe there's a CARB/RFG aspect too, but ethanol is not mandated in all
gas nationwide - only the average content is mandated - 5% nationwide -
with anywhere from 0% to 10% being acceptable, as far as I understand.
Please let me know if I've got that wrong !
The correlation here with manual transmissions is that I bet that manual transmissions are in most of the vehicles used by the unofficial/small-time/individual fuel-importers-of-pemex-fuel... :shades:
LOLOL
Nice try... good stretch.
Pemex is the government-controlled gasoline, and it's not as bad as the stories would have you believe. However, the octane rating is in the low 80s and that's why most engines will ping and detonate badly when using it. In some parts of Baja, there's new high test gas available that's rated at 92 octane and it's quite good. Look for the red pumps.
Mexican gasoline feels very oily compared to United States stock. That's because its refining process is not as elaborate as ours and there are less light ends and volatilities than in the typical U.S. gas. Also, contamination and the presence of water is a very real problem.
If you buy Mexican gas in a busy city location, chances are it will be of decent quality, even though the octane rating is low. Buy your gas along the road at a small station, and you'll more than likely buy a fuel that's been stored for a considerable time and suffers from contamination. If you drive in Mexico, a good fuel filter is a must and it should be checked and cleaned regularly.
I'd be more concerned with storage issues... and, whether the co-op constitutes re-selling.. Maybe a farmer can store fuel for his own use, but when his buddies start using it (and paying for it), then that would be a different matter, I think..
A lot of transportation companies have gotten away from having their own fuel tanks, because of the cost of government regulations regarding in-ground tanks.. A farm is a business, and it seems they would have the same issues.. if someone bothered to check on them..
Mexican tequila = GOOD
Mexican gasoline = ??????
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Oh, what a world!
Regards,
OW
http://www.mexadventure.com/MexicoTravel/Fuel.cfm
The standard stuff is 90 octane(88 by U.S. measurements or thereabouts). Nobody's car seems to be blowing up, either. Last I checked, they sell the same engines and cars pretty much, down in Mexico as they do here.
http://www.swri.org/9what/releases/2000/mexfuel.htm
Older, but of note is the fact that their industry has made better gas due to the fact that vehicles made in Mexico for sale in the U.S. have local gas from down there in them when they are initially shipped to the dealers in the U.S. It's fine stuff - just doesn't have the detergents and additives.
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/06/25/us/25gas.html
A nice article. Yes, the diesel isn't the new ultra-low sulfur stuff, but the gas isn't watered down(apparently hasn't been for over a decade), though that perception still persists.
I do dump a bottle of injector cleaner in every other tank, but since I buy it in bulk a half gallon at a time, it works out to about $1 a tank to add. Just buy the one-time use bottle for $3 one time and re-use it. Far cheaper than paying for premium fuel.
You and me both! Would that cars today had this available. And that dealers besides those of Porsche, Honda, Mazda, and Subaru still stocked manual trans cars....
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Regards,
OW
Porsche and Porsche dealers should be very careful not to lose touch with their roots. That would include phasing out their manual trans in favor of this new PDK whatever.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
If one of the reasons that have been stated that 90+ percent of American Consumers have moved to automatic transmissions is they are lazy and real drivers simply wouldn't accept that. How in the world did the same drivers accept power windows and power seats?
Big difference. Power seats and windows don't effect the driving performance and interaction with the car like an auto trans does.
Simple: Cranking up a window has nothing to do with driving.
I'm lazy about a lot of things, except things that enhance the driving.
I'm lazy about a lot of things, except things that enhance the driving."
One of the main contentions many have made in these forums is that the manufacturers wouldn't dare discontinue the third pedal because enthusiasts still wanted them. However from many posts we see here some enthusiasts still would like manual windows and manual seat adjusters. It seems as if simply wanting an option isn't helping some of the posters looking for those options in their favorite car.
Here's some info including going on a diet to benefit the lighter side of performance...
Interior
* Remove rear seat.
* Lightweight racing seats.
* Remove interior trim, carpet, upholstery and insulation. (Wal-Mart cheap carpet is the lightest carpet - aircraft carpet might also be useful).
* Scrape & Remove Putty from floorboard joints. (Submitted by Charlie Daubitz)
* Replace heavy inner door handle assembly with a cable pull. (Submitted by Dr. Alan Lott)
* Remove locking mechanism completely if you can. (Submitted by Dr. Alan Lott)
* Remove Sound Deadener and seam sealer from under carpet, trunk, rear hatch.
* Remove Headliner, Sun Visors, Clips, Sail Panels.
* Replace glass windows with Lexan.
* Replace Old Glass with new replacement glass (lighter).
* Remove the stereo, speakers and wires.
* Remove the air conditioning, heater, defroster, ducts and controls.
* Remove the windshield wipers, the washer system and mechanism.
* Remove the ashtray and glovebox.
* Remove spare tire and jack.
* Remove window regulators
* Remove door crash bars.
* Remove dash cover.
* Remove excess wiring
* Remove OEM gauge cluster.
* Gauges – Auto Meter “Ultra Lights” are good, but what is even better is they are self illuminating and require no wire for lighting, no connectors, bulbs or heavy switches or the weight you carry with these minor items. (Submitted by Wayne Carroll)
* Light weight steering wheel (there are some very light ones used in circle track, all aluminum).
* Use Chrome Moly for your Cage vs Mild Steel.
* Use Velcro for mounting most of your electronics and light applications on carbon fiber brackets. It is easily removable, weighs nothing and does not require fasteners or metal brackets to save weight. (Submitted by Wayne H. Carroll, E.S)
* Replace OEM steering column with racing type. Flaming River has some aluminum ones if you want to get fancy.
* Switch to billet aluminum brake, clutch, etc pedals. not the boy racer billet "covers" but the pedals themselves - the entire pedal box assembly can be bought/made in billet. (Submitted by Dr. Alan Lott)
Trunk
*
Use a smaller battery.
* One battery instead of two (Submitted by Rob Cacioppo)
* Smaller and/or lighter fuel cell.
* Remove trunk hinges and spring, use hood pins or Dzus fasteners. Another option is to use the little gas charged spring rods.
* Fiberglass trunk lid
* One big fuel pump to feed engine and nitrous instead of two systems (Submitted by Rob Cacioppo)
Body
* Fiberglass or carbon fiber body parts (bumpers, hood, doors, trunk lid).
* Aluminum bumper brackets.
* Use aluminum engine parts.
* Use pins or quick release fasteners to retain the hood and trunk in place of heavy stock hinges and springs.
* Circle Track Hood Pins are available in aluminum.
* Even Stock Fiberglass hoods can be modified to save weight - "I used an angle grinder, Dremel tool and diegrinder and removed all of the substructure attached to the underlayment of the hood. The hood shakes a little at 90mph or better, but it filled up a trash bag full of fiberglass and metal that weighted 30lbs according to my scales" (Submitted by Crystal Douglas)
* Eliminate power window motors.
* Fiberglass bumpers.
* Remove flip down license plate bracket or replace with aluminum bracket.
* Aluminum or Titanium bolts and nuts for non-critical areas.
* Carbon Fiber nuts are now being produced.
* Media blast entire car down to "white" (bare metal) 100% of car - top to bottom. shoot with minimal primer (one coat of etch) and use only two or three coats of lacquer paint. with original paint, a car carries about 15+ pounds of paint/primer alone. the undercoating also weighs quite a lot. if the car has been repainted without stripping to bare metal - very, very rare - it is probably carrying an extra 12-15 pounds in paint. more repaints equal more weight.
* Paint - Use water based paint. Jerry Sievers-Paint N- Place says he saves approximately 1/3 of weight on his funny cars painting for the pros (John Force, Del Worsham, etc.), by using water based paint and decals – lighter colors (white) without pigment are the lightest. (Submitted by Wayne H. Carroll, E.S)
* panels can be lightened/thinned by using tip number two.(Submitted by Dr. Alan Lott)
* Acid dip parts that are not critical for strength - dipping can functionally reduce 18 gauge metal down to 20 gauge or less. drill holes with a hole saw for even greater weight savings.(Submitted by Dr. Alan Lott)
* Fabricate all non critical brackets/attachments out of aluminum. many of these are available pre made but it is amazing what you can make with some aluminum from your local home improvement store - with some heat, aluminum can be bent and is easy to work with otherwise. (Submitted by Dr. Alan Lott)
* For all non critical fasteners a) if you can't afford titanium, gun drill all steel fasteners or replace fasteners with gun drilled aluminum b) drill all nuts through the flats - in other words, when you are through, each flat of the nut will have a hole - maximize the size - i think a 3/8 nut will take a 1/4 inch hole. you can also use a jam nut (thin) instead of regular nuts. aluminum jam nut ... very trick.(Submitted by Dr. Alan Lott)
* Dzus Fasteners - Drill the middle of those as well. (Submitted by Wayne H. Carroll, E.S)
* Replace grill assembly with aluminum mesh/hardware cloth. (Submitted by Dr. Alan Lott)
* Have louvers punched in your rear valence or use a hole saw and drill some. saves weight and will release air trapped at speed - also looks cool if done right - even if you use the hole saw.(Submitted by Dr. Alan Lott)
* Remove Bumper shocks and replace with tubing (Submitted by Charlie Daubitz)
* On older cars there can be an amazing amount of rocks, dirt and other misc. crap built up inside rocker panels, behind the firewall in the trunk and behind the wheelwells. Difficult to remove, but you may find 2 lbs or more of dirt/rocks/who knows what in those locations.
Engine and Engine Compartment
* Use an aluminum master cylinder.
* Switch to manual brakes/Remove Vacuum Brake Booster.
* Switch to manual steering box (aluminum Vega is lightest) or rack & pinion.
* Use an aluminum radiator.
* Use a smaller radiator. Antifreeze/water weigh about 8.5 pounds per gallon. (Submitted by Dr. Alan Lott)
* Remove all unnecessary junk from under hood - windshield washer equipment, plastic shields, hood insulation, etc. remove plastic under-fender liners (Subm
1% = those who want manual windows and seats...
Sorry.. it had to be said..
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Have you ever driven a 10 year old BMW, Porsche, etc? Groaning window or seat motors are common and scare me away from otherwise nice cars.
Electronic climate control is something else that rarely works as well as the manual alternative and tends to break alot.
S60RR Less 440 LBS.
Regards,
OW
Still.... power windows? Even my '67 BMW had power windows in the rear... Of course, I had to replace the motors in both of them...
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So what percentage of that 10 percent do you think are interested in saving fuel and buying a hybrid?
Buying a hybrid? Got any hybrids with clutches?
Me?... I'm kind of fond of gasoline-fueled, internal combustion engines... Give me a stripper economy car that gets 40 MPG and that is good enough... If I drove 35K miles/yr, then maybe I'd look into a diesel...
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Me?... I'm kind of fond of gasoline-fueled, internal combustion engines... Give me a stripper economy car that gets 40 MPG and that is good enough... If I drove 35K miles/yr, then maybe I'd look into a diesel...
Just so I am clear you are saying that zero percent of the manual users today are interested in Hybrids unless they have a third pedal? Even if hybrids offer better fuel economy?
Just so I am clear you are saying that zero percent of the manual users today are interested in Hybrids unless they have a third pedal? Even if hybrids offer better fuel economy?
Hybrids almost always offer better fuel economy, just not enough of an improvement to offset the $2000-5000 initial investment plus the additional 1000-2000 over a similar manual transmission vehicle.
Hey... other than the power window delete thing being at 1%, I'm just giving my own opinions...
I want a car that drives pretty much like I expect a car to drive... I turn the key or push a button, and the engine starts.... then, I put it into gear and drive away..
I'm not sure hybrids are all that great, once you leave the city... Give me a Corolla... only give it the swoopy narrow body of a Prius.. and put on low-rolling resistance tires.... and those fancy wheels that reduce drag... and, I bet the Corolla will make up 90% of the mileage difference on the highway...
Do I want a car that doesn't drive like a car just to improve from 42mpg to 46mpg? Nope... (sorry, I can't help answering my own rhetorical questions).
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God, that's depressing. Is it really true that 99% of the posters here want power seats? What a waste of money, not to mention added tonnage. This discussion is halfways giving me a mind to pursue nothing but cars with manual windows and seats from here on out!
Actually, it may be a race to see which will disappear first: manual windows or manual transmissions. As the number of models available under $20K has grown significantly in the last few years, I believe the number of models with handcranks as standard equipment has actually increased...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I will have to save that post for later evaluation and maybe a quote in another forum.
I just think some of that 10 percent will defect.
You always know how to take the edge off of a debate.
The manual seat adjustment isn't hard to live with. How often do we adjust the seat anyway.? But the hand crank windows is something I will not miss if they ever go away. The only advantage they have in my opinion is they don't need the ignition on to work. But if you pull up to someone on your right and want to talk to them you can't push a button and get the window down.
But with just 39,000 miles on the clock the Pontiac will more than likely be with me for a very long time.
Yeah, but in little cars like yours and mine (yours is a Grand Am coupe, isn't it?) it's not very hard to just reach over and crank it down if need be. In the Echo I can do it while I'm driving along.
I really enjoy the fact that they work without the key in, they are much less expensive to repair if ever a repair is needed, they weigh less, and they don't degrade in performance over the years as power windows often do (as mentioned above).
Wow, I just realized: a manual transmission has all the same advantages over an automatic! :-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I totally concur about being a miserable driving experience, but the MIL's Prius pulled 54 mpg from Santa Barbara to Disneyland (although it did much worse, like low to mid 30s, on the way back).
I was kicking myself because I turned down an E46 330ci 5-speed for the privilege of driving the Prius (eh and some family politics might have played in there...)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Oh its easy, its because south is down so we were going downhill on the way there and uphill on the way back. Okay just kidding. I don't know, same driver, same load, traffic was a little worse on the way back (north) but that should help the car use battery power so I don't know. The temperature was about the same both days, the AC was set to the same setting, I can't come up with a good reason.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
That was anothe car in which I could lower the passenger-side window while driving, even with handcranks. ;-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Perhaps they were thinking of this ugly, narrow tired B210/Sunny/120Y>
Others were better looking>
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Swoopy aerodynamics.. low rolling resistance tires.. super-light materials, etc..
On the highway, this is where most of the gain is... Most hybrids are running on their gas engines on the highway, anway.. Make all those improvements to a traditionally powered car, and the differences are insignificant... If I need more mpg after that, I'd go diesel..
Plus, it's a matter of diminishing returns, once you get north of 40 mpg. If you are only spending $80/mo. on gas with a Corolla or Fit, how much more can you save?
Also.. didn't really mean to lump power seats in with power windows.. I like power seats, but I can live without them (and I do!).
regards,
kyfdx
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In the Book the Reckoning, all about the Japanese invasion and the mistakes the US car makers made the head of Nissan America talks about how sorry he felt selling a B-210 to a young couple American couple. He said they knew it was a bad car but it was all they had at the time and it did get pretty good fuel economy. I know that every manufacturer can make a bad car now and then. But I believe with the B-210 from Nissan you got a good car evey now and then. To tell you how strongly I felt about it I would have traded it back straight across for one of the old VW 1300 Bugs. You didn't even have to give me a newer 1600.
I bet the avg speeds were higher coming back.
Swoopy aerodynamics.. low rolling resistance tires.. super-light materials, etc..
The Prius gets it's best mileage relative to other cars in stop and go urban driving where aerodynamics don't come into play and low rolling resistance tires have little effect but the ability to switch off the ICE does. Suppose you had a car with a smallish ICE that would turn itself off at every full stop and restart when you hit the accelerator as in a Gas- Electric Hybrid?
BMW is introducing such a system in certain Minis in 2010 IIRC. I'll bet city mileage goes up 20-30%.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Rumor is that the so-called micro hybrid drive may be standard on the '09 smart fortwo.