Yep, definitely weird. I'd get the alternator checked with load (that's what I'd suspect is your problem). Take it to your local autoparts store (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc), and they'll do a free check of your battery and alternator. They can add a load and see how they perform.
Wouldn't the load from the main and the rear heater fans be way more than that of a couple of dome lights, or the horn for that matter?
Also, still don't know what component could "reset" after everything goes dead - I understand fuses and fusable links, but I am unaware of anything that works like an automatically resetting breaker.
I will put getting the alternator checked out on the list of suspects, thanks!
Because you have a number of different devices that when turned on will kill your engine (yet not blowing a fuse) then it appears that your main power from the battery and alternator, aren't keeping the main buss voltage up at 13 volts. Start with the basics here, making sure your battery and alternator are up to snuff. The battery test will also check out your ground, as too much resitance in that path could cause weird symptoms as well.
Once you are sure that your main power is good (if that isn't your problem), then you can start to isolate further by checking the voltages when it fails. The good thing (now that you are home), is that it apparantely is very easy to recreate the problem by turning things on....so you'll have an easier time in troubleshooting.
My 98 Infiniti QX4 (Nissan Pathfinder) has given me problems that started three days ago. First, my left turn signal was stuck (left on) when the lights were on. Few other lights were also off. After a while, the lights including the signal light worked again. What a relief.. Then today, everything started out okay. About 10 minutes later, all of the inside dashboard lights, turn signal lights, all rear lights, and lights for radio and climate buttons went out. It's still out. Anyone with any crazy problems like mine? Thanks.
Hard to diagnose this, given not much information to go on.
When you say the left turn signal was "stuck (left on)".....do you mean that the turn signal level was turned on and it didn't reset to neutral when you turned the wheel back, or do you mean the lever reset to neutral postion and the left turn signal light kept flashing, or do you mean the lever reset to netural position and the left turn signal was ON, but not flashing?
And how does "Few other lights were also off" tie to the previous statement, because the previous statement was talking about lights being ON, not OFF. Confused by what you are trying to indicate.
On your last statement about "all" rear lights. Are you referring to just the lights that come on when you turn on your headlights, or are you also referring to your brake lights, your turn signal lights, and your reverse lights as well.
i just bought a 97 chrysler cirrus. i went to my mom's and parked the car on a hill so i pulled up the emergency brakes. well i took off the emergency brakes, the emergency brake light was still on. now it wont go off. my boyfriend thought it might need some brake fluid. any ideas of to why it wont go off???
I'm having the same problem with my Subaru Outback. I switch the lights and still have the problem on the passenger side. I get a high beam but no low beam. Did you find a resolution?
If you have a volt meter, you can verify that there is voltage at the socket. If you have voltage, bulb is bad. If you have no voltage, then a fuse or relay is bad.
If you don't have a volt meter, replace the bulb(easiest to do), or swap it with the other headlight bulb (doubles the work).
I noticed that my 1998 Intrigue's fan for the heat stop blowing. Then I found that the power locks, emergency lights, brake lights, antilock brakes, light the shows what gear I am in, and a couple other items stopped working also. The fuses seem to be OK. These items do not have the same fuse in common. What could be the problem here. I heard talk that the computer could be the problem. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help.
You don't mention that the headlights stopped working, or the starter won't turn over and start the car, so I'm assuming the battery and connections to the battery are okay.
I don't have any electrical schematics for your vehicle, however with that many items out I would look for a larger 'upstream' fuse or fuseable link from the smaller fuses. Look to see if your manual calls out a fuseable link (either in the cabin, or engine compartment).
You may have to find a set of schematics or service manual for your vehicle, if no one else chimes in to help.
Thanks for responding Kiawah. Yes, the headlights does work and the car starts. The car runs fine. Just the items mention in my first post do not work. So, you do not think the computer module might be the culprit as suggested?
I don't have any knowledge of that particular car or the schematics to look at, but I would doubt it. Normally the 'computers' control things like the engine and transmission. You've got basic power problems. Burdawq has identified a possible problem area as well (ignition switch). There are circuits in the car which are 'on' all the time, and there are circuits that become powered when the ignition key is in the on position. The ignition switch is one thing that is 'upstream' of the fuses, as I mentioned before an upstream item is what I would suspect. When I've seen ignition switches go bad, sometimes you can sit there and wiggle the key while the car is running, to see if it is a loose contact in the switch.
I'd look first at any fusable links or larger upstream fuses, as you can visually inspect them to see if they are okay. If you don't see anything blown, you can try wiggling the key to see if any change in symptoms. Beyond that, get a set of schematics or take it to a shop where they have online manuals they can look up.
Edit....Actually in re-reading your orig note, you say your brake lights and door locks don't work. The brake lights are definitely not related to the ignition switch and would be powered all the time, and door locks as well (or else you'd never be able to remotely open the doors). Back to looking for an upstream fusable link or large fuse.
Figured this out - it was a failing fusible link. The link apparantly had gone out previously as it had been spliced, but that splice had deteriorated enough to cause an open under higher loads but worked OK with minor loads.
Traced it after I got a factory wiring diagram and saw that all of the failing circuits (horn, cig lighter, tail lights, dome lights) were fed via this circuit.
With no warning, our 2002 Cadillac suddenly did absolutely nothing when the key was turned. It was as if a battery cable had been disconnected. An external jump starter was hooked up to the remote connections under the hood, and the car started surprisingly quickly. The booster battery pack was disconnected and the car was turned off. Then, just for the heck of it, I tried to start it again immediately...and it did! Everything appeared normal except that the clock had been reset to 12:00. Our mechanic checked out the electrical system and all connections, but could find nothing obvious.
This is the original battery. Could there be an internal battery problem that would cause this. If so, why would an external jump start "fix" the problem?
I would suspect a loose/corroded battery cable - connecting the jumper cables could jostle it back to working status, and the mechanic checking (& I would expect cleaning/tightening) things may fix it for good.
Thanks Kiawah. I do not drive this car much due to having a company car but I took it out on the freeway yesterday and found out that I can not disengage the cruise control by hitting the brakes anymore. Do you still think it may be a fuse of some sort? When it gets warm in a month or two, I plan to start trying to see if I can find the problem. Thoughts anyone?
My 94 Ranger pickup had one switch on the brake pedal, which was used both for brake lights and signaled the 'computer' to dis-engage the cruise. I replaced this brake switch 3 times in about 8 years and 40,000 miles on this truck.
And, when the switch went out, it would not disengage the cruise.
Get in the vehicle, have someone watch the brake lights and push on the brake pedal. If you don't have brake lights, the switch is probably bad.
On one of the failures, a Sheriff followed me home and just told me about not having brake lights. No ticket, just told me.
94 buick lights 'dash,headlights and everthing else thats on' flicker with the rev of the motor.At idle its fine but when driving they flicker or if you rev the motor.Not the alt or ecm all been replaced. At a loss.all ground connections along with battery were cleaned and look good.
One thing to never forget to do is check all of your high amperage fuses for corrosion in any wierd intermittant electrical problem. At 40 amps it would take less than 1/8th of an ohm change to make a 2 volt drop, which on modern cars with all of the communication lines going it wouldnt take a large drop to mess up the system.
:sick: My 2002 Alero, which has only 29,000 miles, recently started doing this strange thing where I'll start it and nothing lights up - not the little green light for the AC, the odometer, or anything else! Sometimes it lasts a few moments but sometimes it doesn't happen at all. A few times the "service" warning has come on, but not always. If I restart my car, the light usually goes away. Other than this, my car hasn't really had any problems. What could possibly be causing this sporadic malfunction in my Alero? Has it happened to anyone else? Thank you for your help!!!
I just bought a used 1990 Mercedes 190 E from the original owner. I was warned not to use one of the back windows until it was checked. Sadly my idiot sister rolled it down and now I can't get it back up. It's electric, runs awesome..it just has this one window problem. How can I fix it myself? Or am I going to spend oodles of money to have a mechanic doodle with it? =/
If your mechanically inclined, you should be able to fix it yourself. Most likely the window regulator is bad but it's hard to say for sure. You may be able to get it back up if you take the door panel off and push it up from under the glass while someone works the control (be VERY careful!). If that works then disconnect the motor until it's fixed. When I had my 280 I remember doing a lot of regulator repairs. The motors never seemed to wear out, but the regulators where weak and would tweak out of shape after a while.
Hi. While your talking about Oldmobiles, I have a ? My 97 Olds Sil van is goin crazy! When I shut off the ignition the door will unlock then automatically lock again. When I try and unlock the door the alarm goes off. Help please Im stuck in the van! What might be the problem?
maybe the battery is going, maybe the alarm, maybe an intermittent connection, maybe a bad alternator.
is it doing it repeatedly? it's better if it is.
if you could get another battery and throw it in there and do a test. maybe the battery isn't filtering the change in voltage the over-all system is experiencing when the engine is turned off. you know a voltage transient causing the power-lock or alarm modules to go into reset or something like that.
possibly the voltage regulation (diode assembly) on the alternator.
possibly a loose connection or ignition switch issue.
i'm just a car owner like you, but i guess this is where i'd start. maybe someone else will have a better idea or some other things to check.
My left turn signal only seems to want to work when it's cold. Once I turn on the heater or the weather warms up, the left turn signal becomes intermittent, and will only flash once then stay off until I hit the lever again, then flash once. Turning the ignition off/on usually clears the problem but not always. Sometimes, after I've parked and turned off the ignition, I find that both front and rear left turn signal lights stay on and the only way to turn them off is to turn on/off the 4 way flashers. Any ideas???
have a 66 impala with a charging system problem, it started when i replaced my alternator, then my battery after it popped the lids and shot acid all over my engine, so i bought a new battery and it did it again, someone told me to replace my regulator because my system was charging at 17, so i replaced the regulator and then my interior lights and headlights began flickering when i would turn on the car, now i replaced the regulator again and its making a humming noise from my regulator and my generator light is on my instrument panel, so idisconnected the regulator and the humming stop and my lights are not flickering anymore, so i plugged the regulator back in and disconnected the grey plug behing the alternator and all problems stopped as well, which way is better and if you have any solutions i would greatly appreciate it.
Got my 2003 Honda Pilot out of the body shop almost 2 months ago and the electrical system if still messed up. When you put key in the ignition all the doors lock. You can hear it three times,,always. If the key is left in the ignition and you close a door they all lock. If the alarm is set and you unlock only the drivers door, when you open that door the alarm will go off. Last week (and it's only done this twice) when you start it the alarm will sound and only turn off after you take the keys out and deactivate it. Yesterday when my son was getting out of the passenger seat the "side air bag off" indicator came on and stayed on for ten minutes and hasn't worked since. No, there was nothing else in the seat. The dealer said they fixed but it does exactly the same thing, and then some! I'm taking it back in. I now gasp every time I close the door at home, afraid I'm going to lock myself out and that's impossible! Sorry for the lengthy post. Any ideas?!?
Started with 'dead' battery. Began putting battery on overnight charger... charge would last approx. 3-4 days. Lights get really dim while driving, then battery is dead next morning. So, put in an Interstate from another vehicle...bright lights, but was dead next morning. Wondering if I should disconnect battery at night til problem is traced and solved. Im thinking short/loose connection. Did take it to electrical shop but he didnt test alternator, but says it is the alternator. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
once / if alternator is ruled out, i think an electrical shop would pull fuses one by one looking for the biggest change in current flowing from the battery (while the unit was not running). a stuck electronic power seat, sunroof, power door, locks, yada yada or short in ckt for same could be culprit.
2000 Buick LeSabre just purchased used with 28K. Got the original title that was issued in 1999, one owner, elderly who could no longer drive and sold the car. Very clean. My son immediately had an amp and bass installed in the trunk, deck to replace the radio. Was done in a reputable shop, have had the car back once and the shop replaced the part (module) that receives (I think) the wiring harness from the deck and connects to the system in the car. Still have a the intermittent problem with sudden draw of battery voltage. Can drive the car 100 miles without a problem and suddenly the batter voltage will drop from about 14.5 to about 12.5 and the car quits. I have had the face plate off the deck with the car running in park, then attached the face plate, and watched the voltage drop in seconds until the car quits. I have driven the car for three days without attaching the face plate, not one problem. Is it possible there is a miracle cure for this? Any help would be appreciated.
Only guessing, but sounds like putting the faceplate on is either stressing the frame of the radio or dials, creating an internal short in the radio......or somehow the radio is wired incorrectly and the frame of the radio is actually +12v, and you putting on the faceplate is grounding it out.
Somethings not right with their installation...take it back to them to fix....it's a reputable shop so they shouldn't have any problem.
would faceplate in this case mean a removable faceplate where the controls go with you when you leave the car?
if so, it sounds like there's a problem with the radio or amp, and putting the faceplate on, energizes the radio, and something sinks a boat-load of current (really surprised a fuse isn't blowing if the voltage is being dragged down).
Thanks. Yes it is the type that removing the face plate removes the controls. The player and amp were in a Grand Am previously. My son very recently told me he used to blow fuses occasionally in that car, but only at very high volume. Testing now with fuse removed from amp circuit, but playing the radio/CD player with the bass speaker connected. If this goes problem free I guess that points to the amp. Will be talking with my son this weekend to see how this is going. Again, thanks.
I am now convinced that the stereo has nothing to do with the problem. Car continues to fail with all, some none of stereo connected. Battery output does not rapidly drop before motor quit, the engine simply shuts off intermittently, speed not a factor. Or, after driving 10 miles or so and parking, car will not restart. Had been able to jump start it every time but one. In that case, and in a few others, waited an hour or so and car would start OK. When car does simply shut down, turning key to restart indicates strong battery, but car will not fire. Had it in garage for three days. They only got it to stall once, left to diagnostic trail. After three days they said batter failed test, replaced it, and that was not the solution. Today just for giggles I sanded the negative battery ground cable and place on car where it connects. Battery is inside under seat. Where it is attached the body was painted. When I tried once to jump start car could not, and noticed no sparking at battery terminals, acting like there was no power. Car has worked the one time I used it after that. Possible that the problem is ignition switch? Garage took cowling off steering column, jostled wires, etc but could not get it to fail. Is it possible that after market remote starter has begun to act up and cause this problem? Any help you can give please.
1)After market stereo. 2)Now we hear about after market remote starter. (Personally, I would never, never put a remote starter into a vehicle.)
Both of the above involve significant cutting into and addition of wiring and modules. By 2000 models, even something like a stock GM radio (mainly speaking from what I've read about Cadillacs) is closely intergrated with the main 'serial port' that handles the communication between and among the multiple 'control modules' (computers) in a modern auto. These include modules for motor, transmission, body, security, etc. And, you've replace the radio with an aftermarket one....
So - you may have some strange electrical problem related to a wiring failure, or a failure of the radio or remote starter module...
Another possibility. The symptoms of dying and then not restarting (but restarting later), and not setting a check engine code - this is strongly indicative of Crank Sensor failure. And, for Cadillacs, they had a lot of these failures in model year 2000 (and you have a GM vehicle which probably uses the same components). The can be one or two of these sensors. They are rather easily accessed, and are not too expensive, about $60 or so. I would consider just having the crank sensor/s replaced, and seeing if this solves the problem. I would also use GM parts, not aftermarket ones for something critical like these sensors.
Good luck. For intermittent electrical failures, you usually need luck.
I sure cannot figure out how to replace a front turn signal lamp which is about to fail (fast blinking). The headlamp and turn signal are encased in one plastic unit. The lead for the headlamp is obvious, but I cannot find the way in to replace the turn signal bulb. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks much, GWC9.
One possibility - positive feed from distribution block has a bad connection, possibly a partially blown fusible link, that occasionally opens. Does anything else not work while the engine won't start (radio, wipers, horn, domes, taillights)? If so, trace the positive feed that is common with those other failing components (you will need a shop electrical manual) and fix the problem. Another possibility (that doesn't really seem to fit) would be that the stereo subwoofer was installed with some big capacitors that were wired poorly - that can cause weird problems.
When the car quits everything else works electrically. I wonder if my first thought about this was totally off base and it is not electrical at all. I have been considering possible overheating of fuel pump because car acted very poorly with only a quarter tank of gas. I put in more, ran perfect for a number of trips, then quit on me today with almost a half tanks, so I don't think it was that. Always possible there is a physical obstruction in the tank that occasionally interrupts fuel, but car never lags, never feels like it is losing power, runs perfect up to the point that it shuts off completely. I know there could be several different sensors that could cause the fuel flow to stop. Hopefully I will have a total failure and find out what it is.
I have a '99 Saturn SC2, and I've been having some wierd electrical problems ever since my car was broken into at work. The theives broke the passenger side window (it has power windows), and tried to steal my aftermarket stereo (I know, aftermarket stereo = trouble, but I didn't install it, I bought it that way!). They apparently gave up pretty quickly on the stereo and opted instead for stealing my leather jacket.
Well, it took me a few weeks to track down a used piece of window glass, so the car sat for awhile. During this time, the battery would not hold a charge. It tested fine at Autozone, so my assumption was that something was draining the battery. Since I installed the new window glass, I haven't had any more battery problems. But, I now have some issues with my stereo.
When driving to work on the highway, occasionally, my stereo will turn completely off, then back on again. After this, all of my guages go haywire. The needles all drop down to zero, but not very smoothly - they jump alot on their way down. Because the gas guage is now reading empty, my gas light comes on, as well as all the other lights that would come on it the car had stalled - only the car is still running and driving along at highway speed. After a couple of seconds, the guages raise back up to the correct readings. This happens sometimes two or three times on my way to work, but does not happen every day.
Is it possible that some wiring in the door got damaged during the breaking of my window? Or, is it possible that electrical damage was done to my stereo? My biggest question is, could electrical damage to the stereo cause the guages to go crazy? Or am I looking at a much bigger problem, like an alternator? This is an aftermarket stereo, with a removable faceplate.
Comments
Also, still don't know what component could "reset" after everything goes dead - I understand fuses and fusable links, but I am unaware of anything that works like an automatically resetting breaker.
I will put getting the alternator checked out on the list of suspects, thanks!
Something is shorted out in there. This overloads the headlight circuit and trips a circuit breaker.
Turning the ignition off and then back on resets the breaker and things work for a while.
Once you are sure that your main power is good (if that isn't your problem), then you can start to isolate further by checking the voltages when it fails. The good thing (now that you are home), is that it apparantely is very easy to recreate the problem by turning things on....so you'll have an easier time in troubleshooting.
Keep us posted, as to what you find.
When you say the left turn signal was "stuck (left on)".....do you mean that the turn signal level was turned on and it didn't reset to neutral when you turned the wheel back, or do you mean the lever reset to neutral postion and the left turn signal light kept flashing, or do you mean the lever reset to netural position and the left turn signal was ON, but not flashing?
And how does "Few other lights were also off" tie to the previous statement, because the previous statement was talking about lights being ON, not OFF. Confused by what you are trying to indicate.
On your last statement about "all" rear lights. Are you referring to just the lights that come on when you turn on your headlights, or are you also referring to your brake lights, your turn signal lights, and your reverse lights as well.
If you have a volt meter, you can verify that there is voltage at the socket. If you have voltage, bulb is bad. If you have no voltage, then a fuse or relay is bad.
If you don't have a volt meter, replace the bulb(easiest to do), or swap it with the other headlight bulb (doubles the work).
I don't have any electrical schematics for your vehicle, however with that many items out I would look for a larger 'upstream' fuse or fuseable link from the smaller fuses. Look to see if your manual calls out a fuseable link (either in the cabin, or engine compartment).
You may have to find a set of schematics or service manual for your vehicle, if no one else chimes in to help.
I'd look first at any fusable links or larger upstream fuses, as you can visually inspect them to see if they are okay. If you don't see anything blown, you can try wiggling the key to see if any change in symptoms. Beyond that, get a set of schematics or take it to a shop where they have online manuals they can look up.
Edit....Actually in re-reading your orig note, you say your brake lights and door locks don't work. The brake lights are definitely not related to the ignition switch and would be powered all the time, and door locks as well (or else you'd never be able to remotely open the doors). Back to looking for an upstream fusable link or large fuse.
Traced it after I got a factory wiring diagram and saw that all of the failing circuits (horn, cig lighter, tail lights, dome lights) were fed via this circuit.
KJ
This is the original battery. Could there be an internal battery problem that would cause this. If so, why would an external jump start "fix" the problem?
And, when the switch went out, it would not disengage the cruise.
Get in the vehicle, have someone watch the brake lights and push on the brake pedal. If you don't have brake lights, the switch is probably bad.
On one of the failures, a Sheriff followed me home and just told me about not having brake lights. No ticket, just told me.
No Explaination except it must have been corrosion in the connection.
Thank you for your help!!!
Therefore, have the 'codes pulled' and see what the computer is 'seeing' as an invalid value from some sensor, etc.
After market parts sales places (Autozone, etc) will usually 'pull the codes' for free.
This will at least give you some idea of what might be happening.
is it doing it repeatedly? it's better if it is.
if you could get another battery and throw it in there and do a test. maybe the battery isn't filtering the change in voltage the over-all system is experiencing when the engine is turned off. you know a voltage transient causing the power-lock or alarm modules to go into reset or something like that.
possibly the voltage regulation (diode assembly) on the alternator.
possibly a loose connection or ignition switch issue.
i'm just a car owner like you, but i guess this is where i'd start. maybe someone else will have a better idea or some other things to check.
Any ideas???
Somethings not right with their installation...take it back to them to fix....it's a reputable shop so they shouldn't have any problem.
if so, it sounds like there's a problem with the radio or amp, and putting the faceplate on, energizes the radio, and something sinks a boat-load of current (really surprised a fuse isn't blowing if the voltage is being dragged down).
suggest you bring it back to the installers.
2)Now we hear about after market remote starter.
(Personally, I would never, never put a remote starter into a vehicle.)
Both of the above involve significant cutting into and addition of wiring and modules. By 2000 models, even something like a stock GM radio (mainly speaking from what I've read about Cadillacs) is closely intergrated with the main 'serial port' that handles the communication between and among the multiple 'control modules' (computers) in a modern auto. These include modules for motor, transmission, body, security, etc. And, you've replace the radio with an aftermarket one....
So - you may have some strange electrical problem related to a wiring failure, or a failure of the radio or remote starter module...
Another possibility. The symptoms of dying and then not restarting (but restarting later), and not setting a check engine code - this is strongly indicative of Crank Sensor failure. And, for Cadillacs, they had a lot of these failures in model year 2000 (and you have a GM vehicle which probably uses the same components). The can be one or two of these sensors. They are rather easily accessed, and are not too expensive, about $60 or so. I would consider just having the crank sensor/s replaced, and seeing if this solves the problem. I would also use GM parts, not aftermarket ones for something critical like these sensors.
Good luck. For intermittent electrical failures, you usually need luck.
Another possibility (that doesn't really seem to fit) would be that the stereo subwoofer was installed with some big capacitors that were wired poorly - that can cause weird problems.
it could be you have serious nasties in the bottom of the tank (water?).
you could have an intermittent fuel pump, or connection to same.
Well, it took me a few weeks to track down a used piece of window glass, so the car sat for awhile. During this time, the battery would not hold a charge. It tested fine at Autozone, so my assumption was that something was draining the battery. Since I installed the new window glass, I haven't had any more battery problems. But, I now have some issues with my stereo.
When driving to work on the highway, occasionally, my stereo will turn completely off, then back on again. After this, all of my guages go haywire. The needles all drop down to zero, but not very smoothly - they jump alot on their way down. Because the gas guage is now reading empty, my gas light comes on, as well as all the other lights that would come on it the car had stalled - only the car is still running and driving along at highway speed. After a couple of seconds, the guages raise back up to the correct readings. This happens sometimes two or three times on my way to work, but does not happen every day.
Is it possible that some wiring in the door got damaged during the breaking of my window? Or, is it possible that electrical damage was done to my stereo? My biggest question is, could electrical damage to the stereo cause the guages to go crazy? Or am I looking at a much bigger problem, like an alternator? This is an aftermarket stereo, with a removable faceplate.