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For our purposes it would be useful for posters to declare their sales tax as it can vary from a flat $300 (North Carolina?) to 9% ($2000+! ouch)
--jjf
Come on anyone that has used this site for more then a day knows that OTD is useless for the very reason that it prevents a comparison for people from different states. Of course it is important to the individual user, but this is a forum to provide the most uptodate info. My taxes in nyc are going to be way more then someone in another state. Do not include taxes title or fees that are state imposed. So if you want to use this site and be helpful to your fellow car purchaser you have to forget about OTD,
If the user gives the "negotiated price"-TTL and the OTD price and their location, this gives the most uptodate info.
To me, mixing up a trade-in only confuses the issue of the price paid.
Is that too low to ask a dealer??
You must be careful because if you name too low a figure the store releases the guard dogs and you are Shanghai'd to Iraq as the subject of distasteful Al-quaida videos in Anbar province. The penalty can be severe.
Seriously, The minute you name a figure you lose. Just "Is that the best you can do? ... I've got a quote lower than that from another dealer.." Repeat that about 5 times with the top 5 of the 13 responses you get from about 20-30 dealers EOM. This is obviously done by phone relaxing at your desk. They've got your cell. This results in something hopefully at, or below your (secret) target. You see, you really don't know their true cost due to the various incentive programs (mostly unadvertised) offered to the stores. If you offer a price and they accept it outright, you've paid too much.
A decent rough rule of thumb is a price that has you eating about 15-20% 1st year in depreciation (wholesale) at least for a comfortable deal from the buyers standpoint. This is for 95% of consumer autos, possiblly after they have been out a month or so.
That said, with the depreciation from list being about 6k, 2k off (400 under invoice?) is a decent (secret) target. $4000 ($320/mo) is enough to eat for driving a CRV for 1st year) Especially when many folks seem to have difficulty tradin em in for "book"
The 2006's were going for about 2500 -3k off. The 07 seems like a sexier machine, the hatch folds up, not to the side (a pain)... But you lose the folding picnic table... I don't know if I could deal with that.
If any want some advice, pass on the 2wd model. It is 1/2 the machine for a mere $1200 savings and possible 7% better mileage.
In actual practice its only a $800-600 savings as there are 3x as many 4wd models and thus a better supply situation for the buyer and thus lower bids off list.
rotsa ruck
--jjf
Thanks jfritsch. You seem to be doing lot of research. What i am mainly considering is to pay 300 to 400 above invoice, not more than that. What do you think about the decision. Is that too low to ask a dealer?? Also how to find all the dealers within 400 miles??
Dealer tried to add on Splash Guard / Wheel Lock for another $200 but I refused and they took those off.
Good deal ?
the reason is because it is a real fee paid by the dealer. it is an acttual cost to the dealer on every single car in his inventory.
now if you want to make the destination fee part of the bargaining process that is fine but remember to add it to the MSRP when beginning to negotiate
No referrals, either...
Thanks!
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2007 Honda CRV EX-L 4WD
MSRP-$26,595
Sale Price-$24980
Tax-$1623
Title-$50
License-$341
Total-$26,994
What do you think of this price???
Thanks!
now, here comes the big however part! right before we drove off, i got to talking to the dealerships's carsdirect liason, who was also the fleet manager. he told me when i'm ready to buy another toyota to just contact him directly and he can do even better for me. this only makes sense as they don't have to pay carsdirects' commission.
good luck!
I find it interesting that your Toyota dealership's liason said he could have gotten you an even better price if you had contacted him directly. I would gladly deal with local Honda dealers directly, but since I have already tried that for a couple of months and they haven't been willing to move more than a few $100 from MSRP, I think I may as well just go ahead with carsdirect if they can find my car within a reasonable distance from St. Louis.
Just a little information, the navigation is the same in the Civic as in the CR-V. The Civic got ninth place in a recent consumer satisfaction study from JD Power and Associates. That is out of ~75-115 other navigation models. The highest ranked was the Lincoln Zephyr.
It never gets waived to us!
My driver side airbags went off and, although I am sore, I am very fortunate to have sustained a lesser injury than my CR-V.
I want to buy another CR-V but I am not impressed with the 2007 model (just my opinion).
I have been calling around for a 2006 CR-V and was lucky enough to locate one not too far away.
The dealer has an SE in the color I want. I'm curious to know what you all think is a fair price.
I've done some research online, in addition to asking the many dealers I spoke to regarding their selling and sold prices on other SEs.
I'm not going to mention the prices I was quoted because I don't want to "taint the jury pool" so to speak.
Please feel free to advise in whatever way you see fit, including dealing with the salesperson. I haven't bought a new car in 10 years, and I'm dreading the process. (I didn't buy the 2005 CR-V that I had.)
BTW...it will be a cash deal. Does this help me in any way as far as negotiating a lower price?
What is the least I can expect to pay and what is the most I should pay, excluding sales tax, destination charge, etc.? I just want to know what you think is fair for the "base" price.
Thanks!!!
You're not going to reveal the prices you were quoted but you want everyone else to inform you of their prices?
Just do a search of this forum and you will find lots of info due to everyone else willing to share (which is the intent of this forum).
jfrisch is giving you sound advice. I wish I had read his postings (and "Don't Get Taken Everytime") before I went out carshopping. I probably got taken again, but I don't believe it was as bad as some others.
After it's all done with, it's just time to sit back and enjoy (and pay) for your car.
Honda replaced the trim level SE with EX-L for 2007. SE meant Special Edition. The predecessor had LX, EX, & SE. Now it is as you stated.
to thestormer, a few of my local honda dealers have over a dozen of 2006s in stock that nobody seems to want (i don't know if they've sold any 06's in the past six weeks!)...i'd bet you could get a screamin' deal on one.
I didn't list the prices I was quoted because, to reiterate, I don't want to put ideas in anyone's head. I'm not trying to hide anything, I'm just trying to get unbiased opinions.
After I complete my purchase, I'll list what I paid. I'm hoping to purchase the vehicle tomorrow or Friday, so I was just asking for some input before then. For instance, as asked in my original post, do I have any negotiating power since it's a cash deal? I'll have the payoff from my totaled CR-V and some extra cash I'm putting up.
I'll take any advice that anyone is willing to share regarding the entire purchasing process.
I am extremely excited about getting a new car, but the whole car buying experience can be extremely stressful. I'm just trying to limit the stress.
Thanks.
What region are you in? I've had an extremely difficult time trying to locate the vehicle I want. I've checked about 25 dealerships in the mid-Atlantic region, from North Jersey to DC. I'm finding that most dealers don't have any 2006 CR-Vs and if they do, they seem to only have SEs.
Thanks!
believe it or not, dealerships actually don't like cash deals. the reason? if you finance it, they can usually get you to pay more as well as spend more on options, accessories, extended warranties and such. also, if they can get you to finance through their own finance company, then they get a cut of that too. so, no, you get nothing more for a cash deal.
I guess the whole supply/demand factor is coming into play. Enough people around here don't like the new version of the CR-V. Since there is such a low supply, I guess they don't have to cut too much off the price. It seems as though in your region, the supply is much greater, and someone can get a better deal.
Essentially, I was quoted a price below invoice. I've researched the internet and found several different invoice prices for the 2006 SE, so I'm not sure which one applies to the particular vehicle I am looking at. The price I was quoted is below all of the invoice prices I have found online. I'm guessing that I'm getting a good deal, but I also wonder if I could be getting a better deal because the 2007s have been out for a while and the dealers should be trying to clear out the 2006 models as soon as they can.
Do you have any suggestions on buying extended warranties? Is it better to buy one at the time of purchase or after the fact? I bought one with my 2005 CR-V, 7 years/75,000 miles, for $850. Was that a deal or a rip-off?
Honda Extended Warranties: Pricing and Info
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Its best to suggest you may finance at the dealership if terms are good enough (in your case they probably won't be unless 0-2%) as the dealer may give a lower quote hoping to make it up on the financing.
Getting 20-30 email or fax quotes the last week of the month usually does the trick. Do this on an 07 before you pursue an 06 (unless you really prefer the styling and gotta have it)
Sometimes a few rare leftovers aren't such a great deal as they can be worked for more profit by the dealer to gullible buyers.
Honda is one of the few nameplates that seems to let dealers compete on the factory extended warranty on the internet. So you might as well take advantage of it or get the dealer to match. Myhondawarranty.com seems to have among the best terms on the Hondacare warranty of all lengths.
Fyi a survey of the 06 deals on the CRV from august sept produced an average of about 2500-3000 off. 2000-2500 on the SE.
You're probably better finding an amenable dealer and going for $2000-2500 off an 07.
Happy Hunting
--jjf
Since you no longer have your 2005, you can turn in the warranty and receive the balance of what you paid, probably around $600. The place that sold you your warranty has the paperwork.
I love the vehicle get 29 or 30 mpg on pure interstate trips and just under 25 around mix of city and highway 40/60 percent being highway. Don't do any bumper to bumper driving.
Initial quote I got was a cheating from one of the dealer from Eatontown , NJ. When I went there they offered me 25K but I came out.
I took my CR-V from Oldbridge Yesterday for OTD 25180. Just got wheel locks free thats all...For silver I had to wait 2 weeks for the inbound one. Finance from my credit union.
Totally I feel happy and relaxed on the deal..
The only Honda rebate I see on the '06 is a 3.6% financing rate on a lease deal.
I have to pay the sales tax which is obviously non-negotiable.
In addition, I'm getting splash guards for $85. I paid $82 for the splash guards on my 2005 CR-V.
The only other expense is $103 for the document fee and transfer of my current registration. I think that is a good price considering that I would have to pay $75 just for the registration at an auto tags shop.
I'm supposed to pick up the car either tomorrow or Monday, depending on when the splash guards arrive. I'll post my OTD, with details, after that.
What do you all think?
I think anything under $22,500 for SE is reasonable, considering that before the 2007's came out they were selling for $23,000.
Get prorated refund for the extended warranty from the totaled 05. And I would not bother getting extended warranty this time.
1) You are buying a Honda, which means you believe in what they stand for.
2) It already comes with 5 year/60,000 miles powertrain warranty.
3) If something fails outside of warranty, a phone call to corporate Honda will most likely result in some sort of financial assitance.
4) Extended waranties are usually too restrictive as far as what they cover. And they usually cover what is most likely NOT going to fail within the covered period.
Good Luck
MNF
Trim: 2007 Honda CRV EX 2WD
MSRP: $23,445
Down: $1,000
Monthly payments: $377.00 (including taxes)
Location: Orange County, California
I got a quote from another dealer, who is an acquaintance (sp?) and he said $1k down, $350 including taxes would be a good deal.
Please, give it to me straight, I can take it!!
I got this out the door price for a 2007 CR-V EX:
Price: $22,000
Sales tax: $1,320
Battery, tire & govt (?) fees: $12.50
Dealership fees: $798
________________________________________
Total (without any options AND tag fee): $24,130.50
Dealer agreed to bring the price down (close to invoice incl. $595 destination) but won't do anything regarding their fees. Is this an acceptable price? I am located in North-Central Florida. I will probably trade my current car (2004 Mazda6), though I haven't told the dealer anything about this. Do you think he might lower/increase the price?
Thanks and good luck!
Did you get several bids which include all the fees from the internet sales department of several dealers in your area? If you have, then go with the best deal, enjoy your vehicle and don't look back. Take care. Ralph
I paid $24,694.65 OTD. Here's the breakdown:
$23,200.00 base, with wheel locks (already on the vehicle)
$ 1,392.00 tax (6%)
$ 102.65 fees & transfer of registration
I researched over 20 dealerships and this was the best deal. It also happened to be the color I wanted. I drove over an hour to get to the dealership, but it was worth the savings over the next best deal (+$425 more).
Pics are on my home page.
Happy shopping and happy driving!
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