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Dodge Dakota - IV
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Comments
I hooked my Quad up to my 22' Chris Craft which weighs in at just over 4000lbs. The 4.7/auto/3:55 equipped Quad hardly broke a sweat. I am REALLLY in love with this TRUCK. It does everything I need plus more.
Has anyone else noticed the "rippled" effect the top of the grill has where it attaches to the hood? Look at the top part of the grill from a hig side angle with good light and see if it looks "rippled or wavy". Mine does so when I have the child seat tethers installed I will have the dealer take a look. Other than that what a joy.
However, as long as you limit any modifications to downstream of the emission control equipment they really can't argue that the warranty can be invalidated - upstream of the emission control stuff and you are on your own.
The easiest way to remove the stock muffler on a quad is to simply cut it out with a sawzall. The muffler is clamped in place and once the clamps are compressed the pipe is dimpled and cannot be pulled out of the muffler without superhuman strengh and since I am not a superhuman well,,,(I had to use an air chizzle to remove the stubs left behind to reuse the muffler). At the price of the flowmaster, about $67.00 I would be able to replace quite a few before reaching the price of borla's stainless unit. Yes the borla's do sound great and will surly last longer I just cannot coin the initial expense.
I found an item from a company called, oddly enough, Dakota digital. It is a speed generator interface unit. They claim it can be installed in the dakota quad and can be programmed to compensate for just about any tire/gear combination. I bought my quad with the 3.92 differential in anticipation of installing larger tires. www.dakotadigital.com if you want to check them out.
Owner's group - I posted an update a week or so back on the two main Dakota topics (including this one I believe). Bonnie assures me that it is going to happen, and it is going to happen soon, although we missed her latest estimate. One reason for the delay is that she is trying to get the Dakota brand manager from DC to take part.
I am thinking about a couple of mods including Headers, tony d intake, and cold air system.
Thanks
towcrazwy, towing isn't the only concern with the dual under-the-bumper exhaust. If you have the big wheels and tires, for most aftermarket systems, you'll have to move the spare to the bed. Some exhaust manufacturers will tell you that the single side exit exhaust actually makes more power than the dual setup because air flows better through one larger tube than two smaller tubes. I have a Gibson exhaust; I was accustomed to the louder Flowmasters but my wife thinks this setup is plenty loud...
q8740, I've always had good luck with JBA shorties. Exhaust gasket and bolt problems are known header issues but I've never had any with my JBA's. They also have a mandrel-bent Y-Pipe replacement to match the headers.
My intake is a Kenne Bell. I was impressed with the quality of this setup. I've seen aftermarket intakes that looked as though they were fabricated in my basement and others that looked as though they could've some from the factory. This is one of the better.
Thank you for the update, and the continuous pursuit of "A page of our own."
Bookitty
a group that is dedicated to "lending a hand" whenever someone asks for help, or when they feel that someone needs help. It is generally accomplished in a friendly but spirited manner. We
do have fun, but the aura of respect is always present.
Bookitty
I agree that the 'flames' aren't / won't be a problem in the Dakota groups. However Bonnie and her colleagues are kept more than busy with some of the other areas - an in particular over the last week or so there have been some extremely bizarre postings.
I am all in favour of us having some fun here (just look at the wife in truck bed chat in one of the other Dakota topics), but the bottom line is we are here to help one another out - if we play fair, then Edmunds plays fair with us - indeed it was Bonnie who suggested that she include a 'Meet the Members' section in the club for a little background on everyone.
One other thing that is noticeable about the Dakota topics is the number of long termers. Many people come here post for a while whilst waiting for their truck and then go when it arrives - Dakota seems different. Sure a lot of you guys weren't around before the Quads, but look at all of the happy Quadders who are still here to help the waiters and newbies.
I have been here for quite a while and have heard most of the questions before, but every day I learn something from the people here - even if it is only the fact that I have a greige headliner.
Bookitty
Not that I don't have a mean streak in me... I mean, I'm still looking for one of those decals... Where Charlie Brown is urinating on a Yugo logo.
All seriousness aside... I'm planning to schlepp on the body side moldings this afternoon... Will post if any problems crop up.
Dakota in the club cab version or perhaps another
vehicle. I have one crucial question which I hope
someone can answer well: Can one use a child safety
seat in the little bench seat in back? We have one
right now that I tried at the dealership, but its
base was too large; the bench seat is about 12
inches deep, according to my measurements. I have
gone out and measured other child safety seats but
I would like to hear from someone that has used one
in the center rear. RSVP
I would recommend the kit if you are looking for perfomance as well as sound because the tail pipe is 3" in diamater and the tail pipe is mandrel bent. FYI-- the 3" pipe is 20% larger that the factory 2.5". The mandrel bending provides better flow for two major reasons: 1) the curves are less severe and 2) at the bends, the pipe maintains its 3" diaiameter. The oem tubes shrink to less than 2" at a bend! The kit is aluminized and should ber rust resistant. The stainless kits run at least $500.
What is flaming? Is it verbally criticizing other posts? If so, we do not need it here.
The 3" exhaust is actually 43% larger than the 2.5" setup. The real key to mandrel bending isn't the severity of the curves but the lack of crinkles on the inside of the bend. Without the crinkles, the airflow is less turbulent.
Dodge will install no charge child seat anchors - see yourlocal dealer, but the club cab has the passenger side airbag switch specifically for rear facing child seats in the front seat.
Flame Red, two-tone paint, SLT, bucket seat, 4.7, multi-speed auto, 3.55, tow package, HD service group, tire & handling, limited slip differential, power everything, overhead console, sliding window, AM/FM/CD/Cassette/Equalizer, fog lights, bodyside molding, leather wheel. Bought it off the lot. Used the Farm Bureau discount. Thanks for that $500 tip!!
Man on man. Going back to the dealer today to order the fender flares. Its soooooo nice to have a dependable ride and so good looking to boot. I understand the problem all ya'll are having with the heavy foot. Fortunately the dealer filled it up before I drove off the lot. Just got to figure out how to have him fill it up everytime it needs gas.
Prediction #2: If you've ever had a pickup before, you'll wonder how you ever got along without those four full doors.
Prediction #3: You'll find yourself lavishing a bit more attention on the the Quad than you have with vehicles in the past.
Congrats! Enjoy!
Resqman, congratulations and the best of luck. Sounds like a beautiful well equipped truck.
Bookitty
Naaahhhh... I didn't think so - neither do I, let us know who you 'whip' first. ;-)
Trucks are for working, not racing.
Course he drives Porsches and I drive a 150mph+ Jag, so that helps.
But one little tip if you really want to pound everything else on the road - put a badge on the back of your truck. No seriously.
Now I know that some of you will be sceptical (and the Americans will be skeptical) because it doesn't seem to work for the Honda Civics at every corner, but you just have to use the right badge.
I know this to be true because I have the right badge on the back of my Jag.
It says V12..............
Bookitty
As for stoplights, the only other trucks to avoid are Lightnings, older Syclones (Cyclones?), and maybe the occasional R/T. Remember, don't do this at home, and you must be 21 or older. Void where prohibited, which is just about everywhere!
Please don't anyone be offended by this, for I am not criticizing, just planting a friendly reminder! Be safe and DON'T DRINK AND DRIVE, not ever, not even once.....PLEASE!
At 50, I still enjoy my "toys" (QC included)... But recognize its potential as a lethal weapon as well. Your perspectives on speeding, intoxication, etc. are valuable! My perspectives occurred in a different, but equally profound way... Working as a newspaper reporter/photographer in my 20s... Being awakened in the middle of the night to cover multiple fatality collisions, usually involving teenagers... A senseless waste of lives to be sure!
Nonetheless... The quad just happens to be one of those vehicles that makes a great big boy's toy! Lot's of fun to play with under sensible legal parameters!
96g11, I never, ever drive over 100km/h.
Honest
Andy, your quick response leads me to believe that you reside in the "Province of Denial."
Bookitty
The automatic shift lever comes off in my wifes hand as she is putting it in gear to back out of the driveway. No big deal. It is covered and they put a new one on.
Appointment 1: The shift lever is fixed.
Then one morning a week or so later I shift in reverse to back out of the driveway and was greeted with a tremendous "CLUNK" coming from the drivetrain. This clunk is present nearly every time I shift in reverse from this point forward. A few days later, upon engaging reverse to back out of the driveway what do I hear to accompany the clunk, but a really obnoxious buzzing noise that lasts until it is shifted out of reverse. Schedule an appointment.
Before the day of my appointment, I turn the key over one morning and woe is me, the fuel pump starts making a hideous whine. Oh wonderful, my confidence in this POS is hitting overdrive now. I call and add this to the list of problems they need to address.
The night before my appointment I figure I better give the Dakota a once over just to make sure I have not missed something. Hmmmm, a slight antifreeze leak near the thermostat. That wasn't there when I bought it, oh well, I will add it to my appointment.
Appointment 2: They only fix the antifreeze leak and order parts for the tranny buzz and tell me the fuel pump is OK. When I pick it up, I take the service manager by the hand and have him listen to the fuel pump. He finally agrees there is a problem with the fuel pump and says the clunking noise in the tranny will be fixed with the parts they ordered for the buzzing noise. Reschedule.
Appointment 3: They fix the fuel pump and buzzing noise (so far, anyway) and tell me the clunking noise is natural and all 98 Dakotas will do it to some degree. After bickering with the service manager again he agrees to call DC and talk to the engineers about it. Reschedule.
Appointment 4: They replace most of the parts in the differential. It still clunks. I am losing my patience. They call the engineer again. Reschedule.
Appointment 5: They go back into the tranny, replace the valve body, service writer says it is fixed. I go to pick it up, slide er in reverse (CLUNK!!!!) I am pissed, I wanna kill. I decide it is prudent to drive home to avoid a heated battle with anyone connected to this organization (this is a 5 star dealership by the way) confrontation and decide it.
I show up the next morning to discuss this with the GM. He is out, how convenient. I talk to some manager and the shop foreman. They tell me the clunking noise and slop in the drivetrain is natural and will not take the vehicle back for that problem.
I call Chrysler and get a file number......what a joke that process is; they side with the dealership.
I take the Dakota to two transmission shops, one drivetrain shop and one general mechanics shop that afternoon. 5 different mechanics from these 4 shops look at it and all agree that there is excessive slop and clunking in the drivetrain.
I call the dealership. They don't care what anyone else says. "We will not take it back for that problem again." I call DC customer service center, they back the dealer's position. Loud clunking and excessive slop is natural in the drivetrain of a 1998 Dodge Dakota.
What do I do now?
"Just a normal noise, and nothing can be done about it.", said this mechanic.
"NOT a normal noise, and something WILL be done about it," said I.
Has anyone had any similar problem, and if so, how was it corrected?
I am 33. In purchasing my Dakota Club Cab, I had to balance my improved financial my means to get a sport car with the common sense of an adult on the verge of becoming a father for the first time. I am a Mopar guy, born and raised, for better or worse. Fairly blind loyalty if you will, (yes--it has bitten me in the a**). My dad has a few antiques, a '51 New Yorker Club Coupe and a '56 300 B. Both have Hemi's, the whale motor. Anyway, I wanted something with power and a manual. I heard a lot about a stick with pipes growing up (dad is stuck in the 50's), been to many car shows, auto races,(drag and circle track), and even a few bone yards. My last car was a '94 LeBaron conv, 3.0 l; therefore, I can clearly empathise with Dakotahell. My transmission was repaired as many times as I have fingers on one hand, which,was not under warranty. I checked out the Mustang. Camaro, VW GTI, Honda Prelude, Civic SI, Neon, BMW. I was very close on the GTI and Mustang, but I did not want to be disinherited! Also, the Mustang is a 1 person vehicle. The Dakota, condidering price, financing and insurance cost, will save me about $7,000 over the next 4 years. It is my sports car. I enjoy the accelleration and the rumble of the Flowmaster, especially in second when I back off under an overpass. All of you have to admit that if you bought your truck solely for its utility, the 3.9 is adequate. You all like to accelerate, that is why you bought the 4.7 or 5.9. The Dakota also lends it self to a few more home repairs that the others. I work in an office, but I really enjoy workin on the car. It allows me to work with my hands. (I probably chose the wrong career.) Thanks for listening.
Dkotahell, remember, unfortunately, your Dakota was built by a company that is attempting to gain market share by offering a less expensive product. To do this, many of the components were built by the lowest bidder. Considering the mileage and the used purchase, the items are maintenance issues. I agree that they are occurring 5,000-n 7,000 miles too soon. However, Consider the following, 1) how much do you like the vehicle, not considering the maintenance? 2) how much did you pay? Remember, you have no idea how the vehicle was treated or maintained prior to your purchase. Also consider that the maintenance schedule on an American car is the minimum recommended, as the manufacture generates huge revenue selling parts and service. If we maintain our Dakota's like, say a BMW, the will also go 200,000 miles.
96g11 - thanks for the insight. I am a responsible driver. I enjoy the torque & h.p. of my 4.7l right up to the speed limit. I work in insurance claims and see the after affects like you. I would say the main cause of collisions is that drivers are not paying attention to driving.
I will likely look into a driving school, SCCA club race or go to the drag strip to satisfy the need to go fast. If there is going to be a Dakota owners Club, is there any interest in auto cross? I ask because in SCCA, you have to compete with the camaros and Trans Am's. Don't get me wrong, like to compete, but it isn't a fair fight.
Decidedly, however, mine sounds much better!
Mopar Performance now makes a chip for the 4.7 Dakota. It is $329. Does anyone have any experience with the chip. I know how they are supposed to work and what they are supposed to do, but are the increases noticeable and, frankly, worth the $$? Thanks. Sorry, I am soo chatty. Too much coffee and a pregnant wife.
My .02$
Allen-