We have an updated look. Click here for information on how to manage your settings. If you run into any issues, please email [email protected]

Dodge Dakota - IV



  • I considered the michelin artic alpins but they weren't out when I bought my Blizzaks last year. How well do they wear. Problem with the Blizzaks is the rubber is so soft that if you spin the tires on dry pavement you actually see a small pile of rubber you've ground off. Also after the Eagle LS I can actually feel the tires squirm a little when making fast lane changes or getting into a corner a little too fast. Must be because of the soft rubber and the block tread. They were worse last year on my 93CC than now on my 2k quad but thats probably because the tred has worn about 1/4" Rick
  • steve234steve234 Posts: 460
    The latest word that I heard was that the new engine would be offered in the Rams in a couple of years. It is suppose to be a 5.7L Hemi, which will give the lineup a 3.7, a 4.7 and the 5.7. On the negative, it is reported that the Dakota will undergo a major revision before it gets the new engine. That leads to a myriad of possibilities, including the exclusion of the new engine from the Dakota if gas prices stay high or if the EPA sets regulations on MPG.
  • I'm pleasantly surprized with the dry road performance of the Michelins - they actually ride smoother than my LS's. Because they dont rely on soft-multicell rubber compound for traction the lateral response is not mushy. I believe at the limit the Blizzaks may provide a little more traction on snow and ice (providing you have any soft compound left - I believe it exists only on the first half of the tread depth). The artics seem to wear fairly well also.
  • bmwjoebmwjoe Posts: 136
    My dad put 2 snow tires on his truck and my grandfather did the same. I plan to put 2 snow tires on too. Besides, I have 2 extra wheels for my Dakota.

    I went to tirerack.com and saw they had winter tires, but reccomended you use all 4. I wanted to see the tires in the flesh so I went to National Tire and Battery (NTB) and looked at the Alpins and Blizaks. I asked about using just 2 and they said it would be OK for a RWD truck. No big deal. $99 each. I then went to the Firestone store and they were pushing 4 tires (at $115 each).

    Based on what I saw and read at tirerack.com I decided on the Blizaks and ordered 2 on line from them on line last night. I got a warning screen about puting just 2 on the car, but it let me order.

    I then read post 414 and decided to get the Alpins since we don't get too much snow here and I wanted the longer life. I called tirerack.com at 8:15 this morning and asked to change my order. Everything was going well until I said I wanted 2. The guy would not sell me just 2! I then asked to keep my order the same and he said he could not do that, he had to cancel. He said there were lawsuits about runing all season and soft-rubber winter tires and he had orders not to accept any orders for 2. I ended up ordering wintermaster plus tires which are a traditional snow tire.

    My question is, what bad thing happens when you mix regular all season tires and soft-rubber winter tires? They say it changes the handling, but how?
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Joe, on front wheel drive vehicles, snow tire on all four corners are recommended because the non driving axle (rear) cannot be steered and there may be some tracking difficulties. On 2WD vehicles
    with traditional wheel drive, the non drive axle front can be steered and that helps with tracking, but the additional traction offered with a winter or snow tire may improve tracking significantly. Actually Joe, it has been so long since I have had any 2WD vehicle that perhaps I am off base with my answer. I never compare my father's and my grandfather's driving habits, as my Dad was a poor driver and my grandfather never operated a vehicle. Did anybody at least offer a "makes sense" answer? Besides, isn't Telford on the line of Bucks and Montgomery Counties? It never snows there

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have personal experience with driving in snow all my life. (23 Vermont winters)

    RWD vehicles with true snow tires in the rear will have better "go" in the snow and not as much "stop". (The front tires do over 60% of the stopping in ALL vehicles... especially an unloaded truck)

    With a 2WD truck, I have used Nokia Hakkapalittas on the rear with studs. (The BEST snow tire made!! ) One must also add weight to the bed of the truck directly over the rear axle. Many people build a simple frame out of 2X6 that fits over the wheelwells that allows a few bags of sand to stay put. Others put sand in 5-gallon pails in the frame. You have ready-access sand if you get stuck.

    In any case, without some way to stablize the weight you are asking for trouble!!
  • bmwjoebmwjoe Posts: 136
    Bookitty, I did not get any "make sense" answers from the tire dealers. I was hoping someone out here would have one. I understand that if I put snows on the back braking and steering would not be improved, but it should not get worse. What is the downside?

  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Joe, response # 417 from bpeebles is in the "make sense" category. Bruce is a very bright and knowledgeable source within this forum. Anything he offers may be "taken to the bank." I spoke of tractive effort, but that goes both ways. Increasing the ability to stop the vehicle as well as to get it going. Looks like a "make sense" to me. It seems as though 4 winter type tires would provide you with a greater margin of productive as well as safe operation.

  • bmwjoebmwjoe Posts: 136
    I wrote Bridgestone from there web site to ask why I could not use just 2 Blizzaks. The subject was "Why do I need 4 Blizzaks? Here is the response:

    "As a demonstration of our commitment to customer safety and satisfaction, Bridgestone/Firestone, after consultation with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, has announced
    a voluntary phased recall of P235/75R15 Radial ATX and Radial ATX II tires and certain Wilderness AT tires. We believe that these tires, when properly inflated and maintained, are among
    the safest on the road..."

    Not really the answer I was looking for.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Joe, that is a canned answer. Remember, that these people have been playing nothing except "defense."

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Thanks for the positive words. Those of us that have been here over a year are starting to see the exact same questions come up over and over.

    Perhaps I should start a library of "canned answers" like Fire-Bridge-stone;->
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Bruce, you are absolutely correct. I could not but help notice that we (the forum) are going through our "deja vu period." With your knowledge of computers and programming it would be possible via "keyword" recognition to provide a suitable answer or solution for specifically addressed questions and/or problems. I have been doing this in my marriage for over 42 years. This is how I don't lose track during the ball games.

  • bmwjoebmwjoe Posts: 136
    I spoke with a representitive from Michelin today and she said that there was no directive fom Michelin to install Alpins only in sets of 4. They prefer full sets, but do not demand it. She looked for application notes and could not find any.

    It seems like TireRack.com gave me a line of BS by refusing to sell me just 2. Kinda ticks me off that I purchased 2 regular snow tires from them. Live and learn.

    Drive Safe,

  • njt15njt15 Posts: 20
    I know that this was covered hundreds of posts earlier, but I have forgotten what the "white" goop in the oil turned out to be. I have about 15,000 miles and done a few oil changes. Last time I noticed a white foam/gel under the filer cap. It is moisture, but from where?
  • njt15njt15 Posts: 20
    I have a Flowmaster kit and it has improved mileage slightly, (10 - 20%) depending on city v. hwy and driving style. Actually, it sounds so great, you will put your foot into it more often, which will hinder your mileage. However, your overall Dakota 4.7 experience will be better.

    FYI, JBA will have headers for the 4.7 available by Christmas. Will they help mileage? Power? Torque? Ahhh who cares...it will sound even better and I will enjoy the meaning of life; acceleration.
  • bmwjoebmwjoe Posts: 136
    The moisture comes from the combustion process. There is a little bit if exhaust that blows by the rings. This is the same moisture that drips out of the tail pipe when you first start on a cold morning.

    The oil and moisture mixes together to make a brownish white goop. This sticks to cold surfaces like the oil filler. It usually burns off when it gets hot, but the oil filler dosent' really get that hot. A long run on the highway in the summer may remove it.

    Drive Safe,

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (njt15) Let me add to what bmwjoe is saying.

    Specifically, the "goop" you refer to is an oil-water emulsion that is highly acidic. Oils that have sulfer-based additives create SULPHERIC ACID under these conditions.(corrodes metal!)

    There are a couple of TSBs that that addressed this problem. One contains 2 replacement parts for your engine.

    Please see the detailed explanation within the CLUBS area under Dakota.
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Posts: 116
    I'm in Atlanta and looking for someone to AutoX with, come spring. Anyone in the southeast wanna make a few laps with SCCA at Turner Field later on?
  • Was looking into buying a 2001 Ford Ranger or a
    2000 Dakota club cab. Ive always had great luck with Ford trucks but I need to put a car seat in
    the back and the Ranger is to small. I like the looks of the Dakota and the size of the truck is perfect but Ive heard a lot of horror stories about them..bad tranny,engine problems,cheap interior etc..has anyting changed??
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    This is my second Dakota, and I am very pleased with the Dakota trucks. I have had manual transmissions, but the new multispeed automatic used in the Dakota (as well as Jeep) has been getting good reviews from owners. I am not certain
    if the rear seat of the club cab will accomadate a child seat. Post this in the Dodge Dakota Owner,s club if you haven' already. Scroll down in the conferences window in the left hand margin.

  • bmwjoebmwjoe Posts: 136
    I put my sons' car seats in the back of the Dakota Club Cab without problem. I usually ride my 8 year old in the front in his car seat with the air bag off and the seat all the way back.
  • Thanks for the help..Ill be off to my local dealer
    and hopefully will be able to make a deal!!
  • For 26089 I get SLT Quad 4x4, Pkg26G,4.7 eng,MS Auto, AS Diff,UR Boxbedliner,4WABS,Fog L,HDSvc Gp,BS Mold,Pwr Bench Seat,Skid Plates, Tire & H Gp,Air,Delux Conv Gp (CC & tilt Steer) 460 Dealer Advert,585 Destinat,385 markup,and 923 Tax,tags,Title,Doc fee etc minus 85 and minus 1000 rebate. Is this a good or average deal? and how do I get the 500 farm rebate (I own some TN farm acreage but live in VA)Also,this includes the new Quad 4x4 factory base of 20419.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Billy, from some other posting, it may not make a difference in which state you reside. However, one must be a member for thirty (30) days prior to taking delivery. I will post a link for you to access the Farm Bureau, and then you can go to your state. www.fb.com. Someone there can answer your questions. The Dodge $500.00 discount is listed under "member benefits." Good luck and have a happy and healthy new year.

  • What is the real world city/hwy mpg for a Dakota ext. cab 4x4 with 5.2 V8.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Shawn, my 1995 Club cab Dakota 4X4 with 9:00 X 30 rubber (5 speed) averaged 18-20 MPG. Because I used it for my job, covering 11 states, most often
    I was on limited access highways and toll roads. I
    also had an A.R.E. fiber glass tonneau cover. I did not check every tankful, but when I did, that's where it was. Incidently, my 2000 Quad cab with 4.7 and equipped like my '95 offers me much the same mileage. I am a believer in and user of cruise control. Keeps mileage up and violations down as far as I am concerned.

  • I have a 2000 Club cab Dakota it came with the power 5x7 mirrors. well I went through a car wash two weeks after I got it and one of the mirrors got a big scratch in it so the car was paid me for the mirror. I replaced both with the power 6x9 mirrors much better view. I think that these new mirrors can be heated. does anyone know of a way that I could hook up the heating part so that the would work. They can ice up sometimes up here in Maine. Any info would be welcomed.
  • I've seen a few people mention a Club section for Dakotas. Where is it at? I didn't see a link for clubs.

    As a side note, my 1995 Dakota Sport with a 318/auto has 128k miles on it and it's still running great! I haven't had any problems with it and I've only had to perform normal maintenance such as oil changes, brake pads, etc. I'll probably replace it next year with a Dakota R/T.

    The only reason I say "probably" is becasue I've seen some articles that basically say you have to spend a pile of money to make it go fast. Anyone in here know the real perfromance numbers for an R/T? I've read a couple of articels where they say it's a dog and show 16 second 1/4 mile times and about a 7.9 second 0-60 time. I've also seen other articles claiming 15 second 1/4 mile times and about 7.5 seconds 0-60. This is pretty slow in either case.

    I don't understand why the truck would be so slow. It's about the same weight as my '69 Road Runner with a 383. Also, the HP ratings these days are supposed to be true HP after accessory drives as opposed to the "naked engine" HP ratings of the 1960s. Given that premise, the 360 in the R/T has more "real" HP than my 383 and about as much torque. So why so slow? My Road Runner is in the mid 14s for the 1/4 mile in bone stock trim. If I take the articles I've read at face value, the 0-60 times are about the same as some compact cars and the 1/4 mile times aren't much better. What gives?
  • tuvtesttuvtest Posts: 237
    There are several Dak discussion groups under the "owners clubs" folder
    As far as performance, the 5.9L (360cid) offered in the R/T is first and formost still a truck engine. I am a Mopar fan as well and a quad cab Dakota owner myself, and I wouldn't waste the money on an R/T Dak right now. if you can wait until they come out with the 5.7L V8 or if you need one now, get the 4.7L with a 5-speed, it's pretty peppy.
    Remember it's not neccessarily HP that counts. Torque is what get you moving. you bird has 425 ft/lbs w/ the 383. the 5.9 has 330. also I belive there are more losses with the OD trans's then the old 727's.
  • TuvTest,

    Thanks for the info. I hadn't heard about the 5.7L coming to the Dakota. That should be a nice engine. Any idea when this engine will show up?

  • steve234steve234 Posts: 460
    The engine is due in the 2003 Rams and as a limited option in the Dakotas. However, the Dakota may be radically changed that model year.
  • ihsalwaysihsalways Posts: 16
    1. Any definite word about 5.9 V-8, or any engine w/ more torque than 4.7, coming to SLT or Sport (not just R/T) ClubCabs?

    2. Anyone know when K&N, or other similar, high quality, induction enhancements will be available "off-the-shelf," w/o any madification for 4.7?

    3. Anyone know of a quality, goodlooking, across-the-bed,'tuff tool box especially sized to Dakota?
  • hersbirdhersbird Posts: 323
    Well I ordered a 2001 R/T today. It's a regular cab with A/C, rear slider, mats, and max cooling for a tiny bit over $18000 after rebates. The color choices have changed quite a bit from the websites as Intense Blue has been replaced with Atlantic Blue Pearl, and Amber Fire has been dropped and Graphite added. I ordered the Atlantic Blue. Can't wait until this thing arrives, probably in July.
  • lee956lee956 Posts: 4
    Interesting you ordered a 2001 truck on 5/18 - my dealer told me on 5/14 that no more orders were to be accepted by DC (I ordered on 5/9). Please post when your truck comes in.
  • hersbirdhersbird Posts: 323
    I was lead down that road as well by a different dealer. The dealer I bought from told me they were probably just giving me a line to close the sale (called impending doom close). It is possible they had used up all of their allotment, but that is doubtfull. They just keep taking orders until the build dates back up to the shutdown for model year changeover. The Dakota is getting no real changes and is one of the last Chrysler products to make the 2002 change. My build date should be available but I have been too busy at work to get it from the dealer or customer service line. I did get the order number 2 weeks ago, and the customer service line had it in their computer. Barring any big problems at the plant my Dakota should get built before July and take 2 weeks to ship. Have you gotten your build date yet?
  • I'm planning on buying a extracab Dackota 4.7 5spd, it out accelerates my 98 prelude, easy, and my prelude goes from 0-60 in under 7sec. With a K&N filter and some minor exhaust work the hp is close to that of a mustang GT, give or take 10hp, I testdrove one with a 3.88 limited slip rear, it laid down 2 10ft strips when I poped the clutch from 2nd to 3rd
  • pluss it's still about $1000 cheaper than a base 'stang GT
  • that was a 393 rear not a 388
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The 2001 Dak comes with neither a 3.93 nor a 3.88 rear end.... Was this a "special" dakota you test drove?

    BTW I beleive the standard rear end is 3.55.
  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    keep up with a mustang...????
    Inquiring minds want to know...
  • correction,a 392 rear, option on the 01 and 02 year models (my fault) but with the 5sp's already close gears, a K&N filter, Borla exhaust, plus a mopar performance chip, the engin will gain about 25-30hp (= to 260-265hp), add that to the relitively light weight, it probably would keep up with a GT converable auto, might even beat it
  • I want to the change the gear ratio in my 98 Dakota 318 from 3.55 to 3.92. Will this effect the speedometer? And is the ring and pinion gears the only gears I would have to change? Thank you for any advice.
  • namfflownamfflow Posts: 202
    Theoretically you would only need to change the ring and pinion. There are other parts to replace such as seals and bearings also, not because they are different but because some items cannot be reused and others it is advisable to replace as a precaution. Unless you have done rears before I would advise having and experienced person do it. I once rebuilt a Chysler 8 3/4 rear because the bearings were shot. The 8 3/4 is one of the easier rears to work on and it was still a pain in the you know what. Setting the backlash is critical to getting a noise free, long lasting rear end.

    The speedometer calibration will needed to be corrected. This is a simple reprogaming that can be done by the dealer (assuming OEM or OEM optional tire sizes)
  • hersbirdhersbird Posts: 323
    A 2001 regular cab 4.7 5-speed or 5.9 R/T dakota will run a 14.8 1/4 mile stock. That isn't that far off the mustang's times. Now take into account the 4.7 5-speed after rebates can be had as cheap as $14000 and the R/T as cheap as $17000 and you got a bunch of money leftover to play with until you reach those Mustang GT prices. The Dakota cost's less per horsepower then anything else made, even a stripped Z28.
  • appraiserappraiser Posts: 22
    I've got an intense blue 2000 Quad 2wd 4.7L 5-speed with 30,000 miles on it. Love the truck. However, when I'm at a stop, then accelerate into a turn, I get a whining sound coming from the rear of the truck. Is this normal? I don't think the sound was there a few months ago, but it's not perceptible to anyone but me.

    Also, I need new rubber--Goodyear is not good. Sears wants to put P255/70/15 on the truck. Anyone know if this will fit without any negative effects? Thanks for any advice you may have for me.
  • namfflownamfflow Posts: 202
    A 255/70 on a 2 wheel dak is too tall. You speedometer will be way off.

    If you have the 215/75 I would go 255/60 or 255/65 the 60 will be about 3/8 short and the 65 about 3/8 big.

    If you want a 70 series I would go 235/70 like the Dunlop Sport Rover GTX.

    This is all assuming you are currently running the standard 215/75-15 OEM tires.
  • hersbirdhersbird Posts: 323
    I think you got the wrong number from Sears. That tire would be 29" tall which is about the same as the optional 16" 255/65/16's that come with the wheel and tire package. So the speedometer could be easily calibrated to that size tire. Maybe Sears is just trying to go with something equally tall and wide as the optional 16" package but on the 15" rims. I'm sure it would fit with no problems as far as rubbing goes but I'd agree with namfflow in getting something lower profile then the 70 series, the 255/65/15 would be my choice, but it is not available in many tire lines, where the 255/70/15 is, maybe another reason for Sears' choice. Maybe as long as you're at Sears, buy some wider rims and get the 275/60/15's, that would look pretty tough in my opnion.
  • appraiserappraiser Posts: 22
    That is my plan. I've picked out some tough looking 15" rims to go with the new tires. I'll post a photo as soon as they are installed. If I can ever figure out what tire size to use. I appreciate your input.
  • namfflownamfflow Posts: 202
    255/60-15 and 255/65-15 are indeed rare but the Pirelli Scorpion Zeros are available in these sizes and in my opinion, the best tire for the Dakota for use on the street. I am a cheapskate and I feel the 100 bucks a tire was worth it to me. I have them on my 97 and will be putting them on my 01 as soon as I can save a few pennies.

    The size is perfect for fitting within the wheel wells if you don't have the flares. I know in some areas tires cannot stick out or you get a big fat ticket.

    My recomendations were made using the assumtion that the owner was not interested in reprogramming and so on. If they don't mind reprograming, find tires that the OD closely match one of the factory options.

    OIf course, in the final analysis everyone needs to use what fits their needs and budget. Thankfully with a truck you aren't as limited on sizes as you are with a car.
This discussion has been closed.