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Comments
I have a TLC with the dealer installed burlwood kit.
It is gorgegous!! However unless you are willing or willing to pay for correct "janitorial upkeep" I would save the money! The first scratch will tear your hair out!
Chack out http://www.autodash.com/ They list several manufacturers and dash kits for TLC. The prices are much more reasonable than toyota-parts.
I was hopping more people can share their experiences with installing an aftermarket dash kits as far as choices/prices/ease of installation, etc...
Any suggestions?
Cleaning the rear window would.
Personally, I think your posting of those links, and others such as TLCA, do a great service to LC owners. Thank you.
HiC
Juice said it good:
ateixeira "Honda CR-V" Feb 6, 2002 11:21am
Back to the mountain?
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
And those posts did not "solicit or promote any products or services, nor self-promote...". They were simply links to organizations that could help answer an asked question.
HiC
>strange problem in sub-freezing temps. My wife's 00 LC would
>start, but the check engine light and the VSC lights stayed
>on. The truck could only move at the idle speed. Not
>responding to the gas pedal. Later that day when the temp
>warmed up the truck worked normally, This happened on two
>consecutive days. Since those two mornings, the truck has
>not acted up again even on two sub-zero temp mornings!
>Anyone ever have this happen to them?
I had this happen twice about a year ago on my '98 (a pre-VSC model). It was below freezing, I started the LC, and the throttle seemed like it simply didn't do anything... unless you put it all the way to the floor, at which point you get full-throttle response. Simply not driveable.
After about an hour of warming up the car by idling, the problem fixed itself.
I took it to the dealer who read the engine error codes, and they determined that the electronic throttle sensor had failed. It would be a $900+ fix, but I chose not to do it since the problem only happened one other time.
Both times it happened were extremely cold nights when the LC was parked outside. These days it's garaged and after a year of no more problems I doubt it will happen again.
In any case, I suspect some moisture got into the throttle position sensor, froze on some of the surfaces, and failed the startup check when the engine was turned on. I'm still shocked it's $900+ to replace a sensor.
thanks in advance
Anyone have one on top of thier LC's? How is the wind noise with one on top? Does it effect gas mileage on highway driving?
If you have more money then you know what to do with, check out the Packasport. They are distributed by Yakima, cost twice as much, but are made of a reinforced fiberglass that is supposed to be much stronger than the plastic used on the other hard tops. They will also paint to match your car, if that is important to you.
Good luck,
HiC
But I've been unsatisfied with the stock subwoofer's boominess. Liveable, but lo-fi. Any suggestions for an upgrade from a car audio shop? I know nothing about aftermarket speakers.
Not much impact on MPG ~ 1 at 75 and is suprisingly quiet. It does cover the sunroof, but one long enough to load skis will when you push if forward enough to open the hatch fully. I think it looks good to boot, Black on Black.
Didn't someone on this board have this completed successfully on a 2000?
I see an add for a 96 LC on yahoo, at a dealership close to were I work - Manhattan. So, I call them up and schedule a test drive on my lunch hour. The salesmen calls me back the next day and confirms our appointment. Come noon, I leave work for the dealership. It takes me a half hour to get there traveling through a maze of subways, finalized by a 1/4 mile walk. I get there and, guess what - the salesman isn't there! He's out trying to sell sun glasses to the blind or something, but he'll be back soon. Twenty or so minutes pass, and he is no where to be seen.
Enter salesmen (snake) B.
"Say, who are you waiting for again? Oh, I don't know what's keeping him. Do you guys have a deal going on. No. Well maybe I can help you? What were you here to see? The Land Cruiser, Oh yes, the 99, excellent car. 96???. Hold on a second.
(looks like he's doing something, but he's just trying to look good). There must be some mistake, we don't have a 96, we have a 99. It's parked right out front. What, your not interested in a 99? Well, I am sorry to have wasted your time."
This kind of stuff should be a crime. I wish there was something that could be done about it. Car dealers can be the scum of the earth. When ever I walk into a dealership, I feel like I am entering into a den of thieves and have to do my best to defend myself against being ripped off.
Nick
I need to replace the original tires on my '98 LC. Does anyone have any advice or experience with what they've used?
At the moment I'm looking at the new Michelin Cross-Terrain which is a newer SUV-specific design for highway use. Any experience with it?
Thanks for any advice.
-Sahara111
The original Michelin LTX are great if you do mostly highway driving. It has a utog rating of 400. With a tread depth of 12/32. I think the Cross Terrain is a 500 utog rating with a 11/32 tread depth. The question is whether or not there is a price to performance premium (cost, performance). I really like the Michelin LTX's I have and have had 11 sets of them. Obviously if the Cross Terrain is better I would consider switching.
an addendum:
With the LTX I have gotten upwards of 90k per set.So that would project to >9000 per 1/32, (2/32 is the bald legal limit 10/32.
So with 30% greater utog rating on the Cross Terrain 520 utog (correction), that would project to >11,700 per 1/32, (2/32 is the bald legal limit.
11/32-2/32= 9/32, for this example, the per mile cost per set is: LTX .005466 vs CT .0052041. If the CT has a performance edge over the LTX, I am ready to switch!
I thought it was 2000 or 2001 that it became standard but thought I would post here to make sure.
Thanks
What you are looking at is a classic, with a cult following. I suggest doing a lot more research. I'm sure some of the guys here can point you to web sites that specialize in this truck.
Seating in the fj40 is buckets up front and jump seats in the rear. It has a stock roll bar with regular seat belts.
55's are very prone to rust, and body parts are very difficult to find. 40 rust can be salvaged. Given the price, I'll assume that the rig is a 55 in good shape or a 40 in excellent shape. Older TLC prices have come way down in the past 2 years.
For more info, see the FAQL, written by Rob Mullen:
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/faq.html
Is this a good price? Also, being that I need the hitch and rack, how expensive would it be for me to put them on after?
Thanks
Nick
An aftermarket class III tow hitch will set you back $125 to $150. Except to pay 2-3 times that for one from the dealer. It's not hard to install yourself. The trailer wiring adapter kit can be had from the dealer. It plugs right into the connectors in the back on both sides of the rig. Not sure on labor to install the hitch, but I'd guess another $50 to $100.
Roof rack prices vary widely depending on the style of rack. Full-length ARB racks run about $800. There are many others. Dunno about factory racks, but you can probably get a used setup for a song from TAP Recycling.
Please enlighten me, I thought the 2 engines are very similar why is the difference in gasoline grades? Can I strictly use regular unleaded in a Land Cruiser?