Ask the dealer to show you a screenshot of the deal on the computer. Verify the dollar amounts and the money factor. The differences will show up pretty quickly. There will be a charge or amount, or a difference in money factor that aren't in your calculations.
This is the current numbers I've calculated based on a car I'm negotiating on in Los Angeles:
2016 Lexus NX 200t FWD
MSRP 42623 Selling Price 40278 Down Payment 2925 (includes 500 lease cash and complimentary first payment) Negotiated Price 37353 Money Factor 0.00085 Lease Term 36 Residual Factor 60% Residual Value 25573.8 Monthly w/o tax 380.69 Tax 9.00% MONTHLY PAYMENT $414.95
However, the dealer is saying my monthly would be $427.09. Is this a small enough difference that I should go ahead and pull the trigger?
Touch base with Longo or Cerritos - your lease is costing you about $1k too much. We were quoted $420 incl tax with $1k due at signing with an msrp of 42,843.
Why is the selling price and negotiated price different?
If by selling price, you mean the gross cap cost, it seems like something extra has been added in - the fees in CA should total approx $1800 which should put your gross cap cost at around $39k give or take.
With the 2925, net cap cost should be around $36k?
2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver 2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Need some help, I am looking at leasing a 2016 Lexus NX200T F Sport in Colorado. This is based on;
- Tier 1 Plus
A Lexus Plus dealer and as part of the Golden Sales Event, they are offering:
OPTION 1: $1K Down/545.51 per month OPTION 2: $2K/$514.46 per month OPTION 3: $3K/$483.52 per month OPTION 4: $4K/452.56 per month
MSRP: 47,178.00 SAVINGS: 2.595.00 REBATE: 1,045.41 Cap Cost/MVP: 44,583.00 Total Price: 46,076.92 Customer Cash: 1,000.00 Net Residual: 28,778.58 Drive Off: 2,045.41 Money Factor: .0012 Term: 36 Res: 61.00
Any room for negotiation being a Lexus Plus dealer and what they are offering?
What does the total price include? ($1500 over the CAP cost). How is the $2045 Drive Off amount allocated? (1st payment, acquisition fee? Cap cost reduction?)
Don't get too caught up in marketing terms like Lexus Plus and Golden Opportunity. It's just a car dealer and they are working with the programs that Lexus gives them.
Internet sales person quoted me 0.00090 base money factor for tier 1+ credit. I replied back that other dealer ships were offering me 0.00085 (going off postings here and clublexus.com) and they responded again that they checked the program from LFS and 0.00090 was the lowest rate for western region and don't know how other dealerships are offering me lower.
So are they trying to pull a fast one on me? NX200t base
Internet sales person quoted me 0.00090 base money factor for tier 1+ credit. I replied back that other dealer ships were offering me 0.00085 (going off postings here and clublexus.com) and they responded again that they checked the program from LFS and 0.00090 was the lowest rate for western region and don't know how other dealerships are offering me lower.
So are they trying to pull a fast one on me? NX200t base
Southern California here.
The numbers are regional. And, we don't have the numbers for all regions.
Therefore, it's quite possible that .00090 is the base MF in the Western US.
Call a couple of other dealers to confirm, however.
And, really, if the dealer is marking the rate up, .00005 isn't giving them a whole lot of profit.
Need some help, I am looking at leasing a 2016 Lexus NX200T F Sport in Colorado. This is based on;
- Tier 1 Plus
They are offering:
OPTION 1: $1K Down/545.51 per month OPTION 2: $2K/$514.46 per month OPTION 3: $3K/$483.52 per month OPTION 4: $4K/452.56 per month
MSRP: 47,178.00 SAVINGS: 2.595.00 REBATE: 1,045.41 Cap Cost/MVP: 44,583.00 Total Price: 46,076.92 Customer Cash: 1,000.00 Net Residual: 28,778.58 Drive Off: 2,045.41 Money Factor: .0012 Term: 36 Res: 61.00
The $1500 over is the taxes of $1486.72 plus the $7.20 title doc fee The $2045 is based on only the first scenario in the payment options box. It is: $1000 from me $545.41 first payment paid by Lexus $500 rebate from Lexus, applied as a down payment. = total of $2045.41
Any room for negotiation being a Lexus Plus dealer and what they are offering?
Need some help, I am looking at leasing a 2016 Lexus NX200T F Sport in Colorado. This is based on;
- Tier 1 Plus
They are offering:
OPTION 1: $1K Down/545.51 per month OPTION 2: $2K/$514.46 per month OPTION 3: $3K/$483.52 per month OPTION 4: $4K/452.56 per month
MSRP: 47,178.00 SAVINGS: 2.595.00 REBATE: 1,045.41 Cap Cost/MVP: 44,583.00 Total Price: 46,076.92 Customer Cash: 1,000.00 Net Residual: 28,778.58 Drive Off: 2,045.41 Money Factor: .0012 Term: 36 Res: 61.00
The $1500 over is the taxes of $1486.72 plus the $7.20 title doc fee The $2045 is based on only the first scenario in the payment options box. It is: $1000 from me $545.41 first payment paid by Lexus $500 rebate from Lexus, applied as a down payment. = total of $2045.41
Any room for negotiation being a Lexus Plus dealer and what they are offering?
I don't think that is the tax. While that might be the total tax amount over the term of the lease, I'm pretty sure that CO taxes the monthly payment, not collect it all upfront.
$700 for acquisition fee, plus tax on the rebates and possibly some dealer fees, along with title/license seems more likely.
That said, I get pretty close to the same payment as your example 1. Within a few dollars/month. If there is any room for a lower payment, it's in the selling price. But, as popular as the NX is, you might not get much more there, either. The advertised leases only assume a 4.6% dealer discount, and you are well above that, at around 5.5% off.
Need some help, I am looking at leasing a 2016 Lexus NX200T F Sport in Colorado. This is based on;
- Tier 1 Plus
They are offering:
OPTION 1: $1K Down/545.51 per month OPTION 2: $2K/$514.46 per month OPTION 3: $3K/$483.52 per month OPTION 4: $4K/452.56 per month
MSRP: 47,178.00 SAVINGS: 2.595.00 REBATE: 1,045.41 Cap Cost/MVP: 44,583.00 Total Price: 46,076.92 Customer Cash: 1,000.00 Net Residual: 28,778.58 Drive Off: 2,045.41 Money Factor: .0012 Term: 36 Res: 61.00
The $1500 over is the taxes of $1486.72 plus the $7.20 title doc fee The $2045 is based on only the first scenario in the payment options box. It is: $1000 from me $545.41 first payment paid by Lexus $500 rebate from Lexus, applied as a down payment. = total of $2045.41
Any room for negotiation being a Lexus Plus dealer and what they are offering?
I don't think that is the tax. While that might be the total tax amount over the term of the lease, I'm pretty sure that CO taxes the monthly payment, not collect it all upfront.
$700 for acquisition fee, plus tax on the rebates and possibly some dealer fees, along with title/license seems more likely.
That said, I get pretty close to the same payment as your example 1. Within a few dollars/month. If there is any room for a lower payment, it's in the selling price. But, as popular as the NX is, you might not get much more there, either. The advertised leases only assume a 4.6% dealer discount, and you are well above that, at around 5.5% off.
As a resident, I confirm that Colorado taxes the monthly payment - for the most part. Discovered in my latest lease that the town I live in wants their share of the tax up front. I rolled that amount into my cap cost.
Hello all first post. I am new to calculating lease payments on my own.
We are going to look at the Lexus nx we are going to most likely look at the base model awd Sunday in new york. Can you post the numbers for 36 month 12k miles per year. Going to try and calculate a payment and see how their offer is when I go in on Sunday. Thanks a lot everyone.
Hello all first post. I am new to calculating lease payments on my own.
We are going to look at the Lexus nx we are going to most likely look at the base model awd Sunday in new york. Can you post the numbers for 36 month 12k miles per year. Going to try and calculate a payment and see how their offer is when I go in on Sunday. Thanks a lot everyone.
60% and .00085. $500 lease cash and complimentary first payment.
By looking at the previous numbers in this thread, it looks like the 27 month/10k yields the best monthly payment. Is that a lease term that all Lexus dealers offer?
By looking at the previous numbers in this thread, it looks like the 27 month/10k yields the best monthly payment. Is that a lease term that all Lexus dealers offer?
By looking at the previous numbers in this thread, it looks like the 27 month/10k yields the best monthly payment. Is that a lease term that all Lexus dealers offer?
By looking at the previous numbers in this thread, it looks like the 27 month/10k yields the best monthly payment. Is that a lease term that all Lexus dealers offer?
By looking at the previous numbers in this thread, it looks like the 27 month/10k yields the best monthly payment. Is that a lease term that all Lexus dealers offer?
While the 27 month term is a lot better than 24, 36 months will probably yield the lowest payment.
I just tried to negotiate a deal at a local Lexus dealer and it did not go so well. By the end of it, they refused to lower the money factor from 00125 to .00110 (We have Tier 1) and there seemed to be something off with their numbers. This is the deal we had the impasse at:
This is for a 27 month/10k mile term.
MSRP: 43,790
Dealer discount: 4500 Rebate: 500
Cap Cost: 38790
Dealer Doc fee/State costs: 594 Acquisition Fee:695 Total Net on my trade: 3500 Money Factor: 00125 (claimed he could not go lower)
Our numbers never lined up. They were about 40 dollars higher than me by the end of it. My calculations were around 364. He was almost in the 400's. I believed he was saying he was around 399. After an hour, I walked out. To be honest it was a pretty bad experience. There were many condescending comments by him including, "Well this isn't a Mazda or Kia, the finance charge will be much higher (My Kia had a higher MSRP than this Lexus); "Are you really going to go dealer to dealer looking for the best deal?"; and then the final comments when I refused to believe he could not bring the Money factor down he said, "the difference is about 300 bucks, Are you going to let a deal get away for 300?" Shouldn't I ask him the same? It was pretty bad. He also claimed the money factor equation takes hours to figure out. Definitely won't be going back there or recommending that anyone does.
By looking at the previous numbers in this thread, it looks like the 27 month/10k yields the best monthly payment. Is that a lease term that all Lexus dealers offer?
While the 27 month term is a lot better than 24, 36 months will probably yield the lowest payment.
I just tried to negotiate a deal at a local Lexus dealer and it did not go so well. By the end of it, they refused to lower the money factor from 00125 to .00110 (We have Tier 1) and there seemed to be something off with their numbers. This is the deal we had the impasse at:
This is for a 27 month/10k mile term.
MSRP: 43,790
Dealer discount: 4500 Rebate: 500
Cap Cost: 38790
Dealer Doc fee/State costs: 594 Acquisition Fee:695 Total Net on my trade: 3500 Money Factor: 00125 (claimed he could not go lower)
Our numbers never lined up. They were about 40 dollars higher than me by the end of it. My calculations were around 364. He was almost in the 400's. I believed he was saying he was around 399. After an hour, I walked out. To be honest it was a pretty bad experience. There were many condescending comments by him including, "Well this isn't a Mazda or Kia, the finance charge will be much higher (My Kia had a higher MSRP than this Lexus); "Are you really going to go dealer to dealer looking for the best deal?"; and then the final comments when I refused to believe he could not bring the Money factor down he said, "the difference is about 300 bucks, Are you going to let a deal get away for 300?" Shouldn't I ask him the same? It was pretty bad. He also claimed the money factor equation takes hours to figure out. Definitely won't be going back there or recommending that anyone does.
Something I've learned - in this day and age of technology - no need to physically go to a dealer other than to test drive. Do your negotiating through email/text msg with as many dealers as necessary - begin phone negotiation when close to your target price. When you reach agreement, request confirmation in writing - then proceed to dealer to finalize. If need be, use credit card deposit to reserve a specific vehicle.
2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver 2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
By looking at the previous numbers in this thread, it looks like the 27 month/10k yields the best monthly payment. Is that a lease term that all Lexus dealers offer?
While the 27 month term is a lot better than 24, 36 months will probably yield the lowest payment.
I just tried to negotiate a deal at a local Lexus dealer and it did not go so well. By the end of it, they refused to lower the money factor from 00125 to .00110 (We have Tier 1) and there seemed to be something off with their numbers. This is the deal we had the impasse at:
This is for a 27 month/10k mile term.
MSRP: 43,790
Dealer discount: 4500 Rebate: 500
Cap Cost: 38790
Dealer Doc fee/State costs: 594 Acquisition Fee:695 Total Net on my trade: 3500 Money Factor: 00125 (claimed he could not go lower)
Our numbers never lined up. They were about 40 dollars higher than me by the end of it. My calculations were around 364. He was almost in the 400's. I believed he was saying he was around 399. After an hour, I walked out. To be honest it was a pretty bad experience. There were many condescending comments by him including, "Well this isn't a Mazda or Kia, the finance charge will be much higher (My Kia had a higher MSRP than this Lexus); "Are you really going to go dealer to dealer looking for the best deal?"; and then the final comments when I refused to believe he could not bring the Money factor down he said, "the difference is about 300 bucks, Are you going to let a deal get away for 300?" Shouldn't I ask him the same? It was pretty bad. He also claimed the money factor equation takes hours to figure out. Definitely won't be going back there or recommending that anyone does.
Something I've learned - in this day and age of technology - no need to physically go to a dealer other than to test drive. Do your negotiating through email/text msg with as many dealers as necessary - begin phone negotiation when close to your target price. When you reach agreement, request confirmation in writing - then proceed to dealer to finalize. If need be, use credit card deposit to reserve a specific vehicle.
I completely agree with you. That is the way I normally go about things. We had gone in to test drive and get a preliminary number. Our sales guy was a pleasure but once the "manager" got involved, that is when it got ugly. It was late in the night so I will cut him some slack. But the condescending words are unnecessary.
By looking at the previous numbers in this thread, it looks like the 27 month/10k yields the best monthly payment. Is that a lease term that all Lexus dealers offer?
While the 27 month term is a lot better than 24, 36 months will probably yield the lowest payment.
I just tried to negotiate a deal at a local Lexus dealer and it did not go so well. By the end of it, they refused to lower the money factor from 00125 to .00110 (We have Tier 1) and there seemed to be something off with their numbers. This is the deal we had the impasse at:
This is for a 27 month/10k mile term.
MSRP: 43,790
Dealer discount: 4500 Rebate: 500
Cap Cost: 38790
Dealer Doc fee/State costs: 594 Acquisition Fee:695 Total Net on my trade: 3500 Money Factor: 00125 (claimed he could not go lower)
Our numbers never lined up. They were about 40 dollars higher than me by the end of it. My calculations were around 364. He was almost in the 400's. I believed he was saying he was around 399. After an hour, I walked out. To be honest it was a pretty bad experience. There were many condescending comments by him including, "Well this isn't a Mazda or Kia, the finance charge will be much higher (My Kia had a higher MSRP than this Lexus); "Are you really going to go dealer to dealer looking for the best deal?"; and then the final comments when I refused to believe he could not bring the Money factor down he said, "the difference is about 300 bucks, Are you going to let a deal get away for 300?" Shouldn't I ask him the same? It was pretty bad. He also claimed the money factor equation takes hours to figure out. Definitely won't be going back there or recommending that anyone does.
Something I've learned - in this day and age of technology - no need to physically go to a dealer other than to test drive. Do your negotiating through email/text msg with as many dealers as necessary - begin phone negotiation when close to your target price. When you reach agreement, request confirmation in writing - then proceed to dealer to finalize. If need be, use credit card deposit to reserve a specific vehicle.
I completely agree with you. That is the way I normally go about things. We had gone in to test drive and get a preliminary number. Our sales guy was a pleasure but once the "manager" got involved, that is when it got ugly. It was late in the night so I will cut him some slack. But the condescending words are unnecessary.
Same experience I had at the dealership I leased from. Worked out some numbers with the internet people and negotiated it a little more with the sales guy who worked with me in person. Process was smooth up to that point.
The finance "manager" part was where the shenanigans started. He started doing things like sneaking protection plans into my cap cost saying they were "free" and not giving me the proper reduced money factor for my MSDs. Had to redo the contract three times because each time my monthly was going up ~$30. Had the audacity to tell me that I was being difficult. Props for him keeping a straight face when saying he wasn't trying to cheat me out of our original deal though.
By looking at the previous numbers in this thread, it looks like the 27 month/10k yields the best monthly payment. Is that a lease term that all Lexus dealers offer?
While the 27 month term is a lot better than 24, 36 months will probably yield the lowest payment.
I just tried to negotiate a deal at a local Lexus dealer and it did not go so well. By the end of it, they refused to lower the money factor from 00125 to .00110 (We have Tier 1) and there seemed to be something off with their numbers. This is the deal we had the impasse at:
This is for a 27 month/10k mile term.
MSRP: 43,790
Dealer discount: 4500 Rebate: 500
Cap Cost: 38790
Dealer Doc fee/State costs: 594 Acquisition Fee:695 Total Net on my trade: 3500 Money Factor: 00125 (claimed he could not go lower)
Our numbers never lined up. They were about 40 dollars higher than me by the end of it. My calculations were around 364. He was almost in the 400's. I believed he was saying he was around 399. After an hour, I walked out. To be honest it was a pretty bad experience. There were many condescending comments by him including, "Well this isn't a Mazda or Kia, the finance charge will be much higher (My Kia had a higher MSRP than this Lexus); "Are you really going to go dealer to dealer looking for the best deal?"; and then the final comments when I refused to believe he could not bring the Money factor down he said, "the difference is about 300 bucks, Are you going to let a deal get away for 300?" Shouldn't I ask him the same? It was pretty bad. He also claimed the money factor equation takes hours to figure out. Definitely won't be going back there or recommending that anyone does.
Something I've learned - in this day and age of technology - no need to physically go to a dealer other than to test drive. Do your negotiating through email/text msg with as many dealers as necessary - begin phone negotiation when close to your target price. When you reach agreement, request confirmation in writing - then proceed to dealer to finalize. If need be, use credit card deposit to reserve a specific vehicle.
I completely agree with you. That is the way I normally go about things. We had gone in to test drive and get a preliminary number. Our sales guy was a pleasure but once the "manager" got involved, that is when it got ugly. It was late in the night so I will cut him some slack. But the condescending words are unnecessary.
Same experience I had at the dealership I leased from. Worked out some numbers with the internet people and negotiated it a little more with the sales guy who worked with me in person. Process was smooth up to that point.
The finance "manager" part was where the shenanigans started. He started doing things like sneaking protection plans into my cap cost saying they were "free" and not giving me the proper reduced money factor for my MSDs. Had to redo the contract three times because each time my monthly was going up ~$30. Had the audacity to tell me that I was being difficult. Props for him keeping a straight face when saying he wasn't trying to cheat me out of our original deal though.
end rant...hah
Sounds eerily similar. First thing out of his mouth was "we don't play games here, we are straight to the point". When I pointed out the Money Factor being inflated, he responded with " I can't bring it lower. I can't lose on the car and lose with the bank too. The difference is about 300 bucks total. Are you going to lose a deal over 300 bucks?". I had to bite my tongue a bit and was respectful the whole time. I would think that 300 bucks is a lot less important to a multi-million dollar dealership than to me if it means a sale. He also hit me with the, "how many lease deals have you done this year? Because I have done over 50."
By looking at the previous numbers in this thread, it looks like the 27 month/10k yields the best monthly payment. Is that a lease term that all Lexus dealers offer?
While the 27 month term is a lot better than 24, 36 months will probably yield the lowest payment.
I just tried to negotiate a deal at a local Lexus dealer and it did not go so well. By the end of it, they refused to lower the money factor from 00125 to .00110 (We have Tier 1) and there seemed to be something off with their numbers. This is the deal we had the impasse at:
This is for a 27 month/10k mile term.
MSRP: 43,790
Dealer discount: 4500 Rebate: 500
Cap Cost: 38790
Dealer Doc fee/State costs: 594 Acquisition Fee:695 Total Net on my trade: 3500 Money Factor: 00125 (claimed he could not go lower)
Our numbers never lined up. They were about 40 dollars higher than me by the end of it. My calculations were around 364. He was almost in the 400's. I believed he was saying he was around 399. After an hour, I walked out. To be honest it was a pretty bad experience. There were many condescending comments by him including, "Well this isn't a Mazda or Kia, the finance charge will be much higher (My Kia had a higher MSRP than this Lexus); "Are you really going to go dealer to dealer looking for the best deal?"; and then the final comments when I refused to believe he could not bring the Money factor down he said, "the difference is about 300 bucks, Are you going to let a deal get away for 300?" Shouldn't I ask him the same? It was pretty bad. He also claimed the money factor equation takes hours to figure out. Definitely won't be going back there or recommending that anyone does.
Something I've learned - in this day and age of technology - no need to physically go to a dealer other than to test drive. Do your negotiating through email/text msg with as many dealers as necessary - begin phone negotiation when close to your target price. When you reach agreement, request confirmation in writing - then proceed to dealer to finalize. If need be, use credit card deposit to reserve a specific vehicle.
I completely agree with you. That is the way I normally go about things. We had gone in to test drive and get a preliminary number. Our sales guy was a pleasure but once the "manager" got involved, that is when it got ugly. It was late in the night so I will cut him some slack. But the condescending words are unnecessary.
Same experience I had at the dealership I leased from. Worked out some numbers with the internet people and negotiated it a little more with the sales guy who worked with me in person. Process was smooth up to that point.
The finance "manager" part was where the shenanigans started. He started doing things like sneaking protection plans into my cap cost saying they were "free" and not giving me the proper reduced money factor for my MSDs. Had to redo the contract three times because each time my monthly was going up ~$30. Had the audacity to tell me that I was being difficult. Props for him keeping a straight face when saying he wasn't trying to cheat me out of our original deal though.
end rant...hah
Sounds eerily similar. First thing out of his mouth was "we don't play games here, we are straight to the point". When I pointed out the Money Factor being inflated, he responded with " I can't bring it lower. I can't lose on the car and lose with the bank too. The difference is about 300 bucks total. Are you going to lose a deal over 300 bucks?". I had to bite my tongue a bit and was respectful the whole time. I would think that 300 bucks is a lot less important to a multi-million dollar dealership than to me if it means a sale. He also hit me with the, "how many lease deals have you done this year? Because I have done over 50."
Hi, I need help with the MF/Residual for the base model NX200t in South Florida. I would also like to know any incentives available and until when are the numbers good through?
Hi, I need help with the MF/Residual for the base model NX200t in South Florida. I would also like to know any incentives available and until when are the numbers good through?
Hi, I need help with the MF/Residual for the base model NX200t in South Florida. I would also like to know any incentives available and until when are the numbers good through?
I forgot to mention it's 36/12K
.00085 and 60%. $500 lease cash and complimentary first payment.
Comments
$500 lease cash and complimentary first payment.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
2016 Lexus NX 200t FWD
MSRP 42623
Selling Price 40278
Down Payment 2925 (includes 500 lease cash and complimentary first payment)
Negotiated Price 37353
Money Factor 0.00085
Lease Term 36
Residual Factor 60%
Residual Value 25573.8
Monthly w/o tax 380.69
Tax 9.00%
MONTHLY PAYMENT $414.95
However, the dealer is saying my monthly would be $427.09. Is this a small enough difference that I should go ahead and pull the trigger?
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Why is the selling price and negotiated price different?
If by selling price, you mean the gross cap cost, it seems like something extra has been added in - the fees in CA should total approx $1800 which should put your gross cap cost at around $39k give or take.
With the 2925, net cap cost should be around $36k?
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Base model
36months/10K
MSRP: $36,913.00
Cap: $33500 (not including any incentives, as I hadn't told him I would be leasing yet)
Is this a decent deal assuming they don't try to mark up anything (mf, hidden fees, etc.)? How much would paying all 9 MSDs lower things?
With your prices, I get $396/mo before tax.
9 MSDs would lower the MF to .00038, and the pre-tax payment to $357/mo
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And, you're right ... 61% for 36/10 on the 200t. I inadvertently read the NX300h line.
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Need some help, I am looking at leasing a 2016 Lexus NX200T F Sport in Colorado. This is based on;
- Tier 1 Plus
A Lexus Plus dealer and as part of the Golden Sales Event, they are offering:
OPTION 1: $1K Down/545.51 per month
OPTION 2: $2K/$514.46 per month
OPTION 3: $3K/$483.52 per month
OPTION 4: $4K/452.56 per month
MSRP: 47,178.00
SAVINGS: 2.595.00
REBATE: 1,045.41
Cap Cost/MVP: 44,583.00
Total Price: 46,076.92
Customer Cash: 1,000.00
Net Residual: 28,778.58
Drive Off: 2,045.41
Money Factor: .0012
Term: 36
Res: 61.00
Any room for negotiation being a Lexus Plus dealer and what they are offering?
How is the $2045 Drive Off amount allocated? (1st payment, acquisition fee? Cap cost reduction?)
Don't get too caught up in marketing terms like Lexus Plus and Golden Opportunity. It's just a car dealer and they are working with the programs that Lexus gives them.
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So are they trying to pull a fast one on me? NX200t base
Southern California here.
Therefore, it's quite possible that .00090 is the base MF in the Western US.
Call a couple of other dealers to confirm, however.
And, really, if the dealer is marking the rate up, .00005 isn't giving them a whole lot of profit.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
MSRP: $47398
Negotiated price: $42184 (11% off)
MF: .0009
Res: 61%
Fees: 80 (doc) 700 (acq) 385 (DMV)
3X MSD = $1425
Total drive off: $1925
Monthly payment incl. tax $475
Are the calculations correct and is there something that you see that I should inquire about before pulling the trigger?
Thanks!
As is, and assuming the MF drops to .00066, I get $382/mo before tax, and $417/mo if the tax rate is 9% (guess on my part).
I'd confirm both the cap cost and the MF used in the dealer calculation. $475 seems high.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
Thanks for the quick reply Michaell!
The adjusted cap cost is $42,069. Yes. The total amount due is $1925 and you are correct that the MF drops to .00066 and our tax rate is 8.75%.
As for the figure of $475, that's what I was thinking as well.
Need some help, I am looking at leasing a 2016 Lexus NX200T F Sport in Colorado. This is based on;
- Tier 1 Plus
They are offering:
OPTION 1: $1K Down/545.51 per month
OPTION 2: $2K/$514.46 per month
OPTION 3: $3K/$483.52 per month
OPTION 4: $4K/452.56 per month
MSRP: 47,178.00
SAVINGS: 2.595.00
REBATE: 1,045.41
Cap Cost/MVP: 44,583.00
Total Price: 46,076.92
Customer Cash: 1,000.00
Net Residual: 28,778.58
Drive Off: 2,045.41
Money Factor: .0012
Term: 36
Res: 61.00
The $1500 over is the taxes of $1486.72 plus the $7.20 title doc fee
The $2045 is based on only the first scenario in the payment options box. It is:
$1000 from me
$545.41 first payment paid by Lexus
$500 rebate from Lexus, applied as a down payment.
= total of $2045.41
Any room for negotiation being a Lexus Plus dealer and what they are offering?
$700 for acquisition fee, plus tax on the rebates and possibly some dealer fees, along with title/license seems more likely.
That said, I get pretty close to the same payment as your example 1. Within a few dollars/month.
If there is any room for a lower payment, it's in the selling price. But, as popular as the NX is, you might not get much more there, either. The advertised leases only assume a 4.6% dealer discount, and you are well above that, at around 5.5% off.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
May I please have the MF and residual percentages on a 2016 NX200t F-Sport FWD in Florida for the following terms:
24/10
24/12
27/10
27/12
36/10
36/12
Any lease cash?
Thank you
.00085 and 67% / 66% / 60%. Add 1% for 10K
$500 lease cash and complimentary first payment.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
We are going to look at the Lexus nx we are going to most likely look at the base model awd Sunday in new york. Can you post the numbers for 36 month 12k miles per year. Going to try and calculate a payment and see how their offer is when I go in on Sunday. Thanks a lot everyone.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
What are the MF and Residual in the metro NYC area for a 200t AWD on a 36 month, 15k/yr lease?
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.00110 MF. $500 lease cash + complimentary 1st payment.
Yes, 27 months available everywhere.
While the 27 month term is a lot better than 24, 36 months will probably yield the lowest payment.
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This is for a 27 month/10k mile term.
MSRP: 43,790
Dealer discount: 4500
Rebate: 500
Cap Cost: 38790
Dealer Doc fee/State costs: 594
Acquisition Fee:695
Total Net on my trade: 3500
Money Factor: 00125 (claimed he could not go lower)
Our numbers never lined up. They were about 40 dollars higher than me by the end of it. My calculations were around 364. He was almost in the 400's. I believed he was saying he was around 399. After an hour, I walked out. To be honest it was a pretty bad experience. There were many condescending comments by him including, "Well this isn't a Mazda or Kia, the finance charge will be much higher (My Kia had a higher MSRP than this Lexus); "Are you really going to go dealer to dealer looking for the best deal?"; and then the final comments when I refused to believe he could not bring the Money factor down he said, "the difference is about 300 bucks, Are you going to let a deal get away for 300?" Shouldn't I ask him the same? It was pretty bad. He also claimed the money factor equation takes hours to figure out. Definitely won't be going back there or recommending that anyone does.
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2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
The finance "manager" part was where the shenanigans started. He started doing things like sneaking protection plans into my cap cost saying they were "free" and not giving me the proper reduced money factor for my MSDs. Had to redo the contract three times because each time my monthly was going up ~$30. Had the audacity to tell me that I was being difficult. Props for him keeping a straight face when saying he wasn't trying to cheat me out of our original deal though.
end rant...hah
I don't have a lot of patience for the "you aren't going to lose a deal over $50" crap, though.
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Numbers expire 9/6
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thank you
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4