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Comments
I have a 2000 Accord and this morning the sunroof closed half-way and then stopped dead. I'm off to the dealer tonight to get this taken care of, but I was wondering if anyone else had seen this problem. The last time we took the car in for a service (6 months ago) they worked on it to fix the rattling problem, but I haven't had any issues with it until today??
Many thanks
Paul
Since around 36,000 miles (go figure, just as the warrantee runs out!) the
Check Engine light has been on. I have brought it into the dealers who put
in on the "computer" to read the codes....It always comes up with something
about the O2 sensors.
I've replaced them (both). The light went off, but eventually back on.
I have a mechanic that I trust and I have him scratching his head. At one
point, he replaced the "map sensor," which did not work. He was honest with
me and told me to go to a dealer because they might know.
The dealer was "absolutely positive" that it was a combination of two things
and replaces the "canister" and something else (I don't remember now,
possibly some valve). On the way home from that $250 "repair," the light
came back on. They looked at it again and were again "absolutely positive"
that it is the catalytic converter (hey, only $1500 this time!). I chose
against going down that road until I am sure.
I've tried Techron, and a catalytic converter cleaner which actually made
the light go off for a few weeks once, but doesn't work anymore. We've
reset the computer dozens of times to monitor what is setting it off.
He says that the code set in the 1998 is not as descriptive as it is now
(1998 was the first year they used this code set????) so he still cannot be
sure.
The strangest thing is this: the car runs fine for a 4 1/2 year old car with
almost 100,000 miles on it. It idles a little rough but has not shown
decreased power or gas mileage. It does not stall. It runs well. I've
been told that the rough idling is the computer trying to compensate for the
problem it thinks its having.
I am very confused by this. And I am angry that that little light will cost
me all sorts of money when I want to sell/trade-in the car.
Sorry for the long history. Any help would be appreciated.
Since the change of tires I am detecting a slight vibration at speeds over 60 MPH (the steering wheel does not shake and the disc brakes are not wharped) and worse is the car's inability to steer straight. The ride has become jittery and bouncy.
I already had the car's tires rebalanced and the wheels aligned (after the new set of tires was mounted and the issue was noticed) but it did not fix the problem. I did not have these problems until the new set of tires was installed.
I would appreciate any ideas/suggestions as to what may be happening and how to fix it, thanks.
Just a quick Question: My Accord is 9 Months new.
Unfortunately, I am not very happy with it. Various reasons. 13K or 8,125 Miles to date.
Has anyone had ANY experience with breaking a lease midway?
There are 27 months left on it.
All ideas will be most appreciated.
Thanks,
Robert.
P.S. Car has NOT been involved in any accidents and have NOT had any mechanical problems.
Who installed the tires? Go to the best tire/wheel shop in town, have them put each wheel/tire on the balancer, and have them check for both horizontal runout ['wobble'] and vertical runout [lack of roundness]. My bet is that at least one, and probably more, of the tires is not round enough or true enough for this chassis. While Michelin has the best quality control in the world, even they make the occasional mistake.
Vibrations AFTER a tire swap can only be one of two things: wheel balance or wheel/tire runout. With the electronic balancers out there today, it is hard to screw up a balance job, but some of the youngsters they hire to do this work have been known to manage it. Assuming balance is really OK [as verified by the best shop in town], then focus on runout.
I have a question for 98-on Accord owners. Basically I would like to find out if anyone is having the same problem, related to steering.
As my car is getting older, the steering/tires seem to wander on the highway more and more with the ruts and imperfection in the roadway. Steering correction is constantly needed. Especially when you come to stop at stop lights where the road has truck ruts from braking, the steering will wiggle left and right much more than it used to, say at about 10,000 miles.....I was wondering if anyone else has this problem and/or if anyone has heard about this problem. TSB? Recall?
Thanks.
joer9: Honda auto trannies do tend to clunk quite loudly going into reverse. It is especially noticeable when the windows are open or if the car is in an enclosed area. That's the case with my CL. If it otherwise shifts normal, then I wouldn't worry about it. It's out of warranty anyway, so no sense speculating about whether there is a problem or not. If there is a recall, you'd be notified by letter.
I know (by having read posts in this board) that some owners did get a new/remanufactured tranny installed after complaining about the problem to the dealer but I believe their cars were still in warranty. It is annoying and loud but since your car is out of warranty I would not bother taking it to the dealer unless the problem gets worse.
The fact of the matter is that Honda's auto tranny's are simply not the best in the industry, their manual transmissions on the other hand are excellent.
As a side note, typing in all caps is considered impolite; it's the online version of "shouting."
Thanks.
i have a 98 civic, 44k. This morning after I insert the key in, I can't turn the key (to ignite). The steer seems also locked up. The shift is at parking position. This never happened before.
Anybody have any idea? Thanks!
i have a 98 civic, 44k. This morning after I insert the key in, I can't turn the key (to ignite). The steer seems also locked up. The shift is at parking position. This never happened before.
Anybody have any idea? Thanks!
Still, the advice above is indeed paramount:
WHENEVER ANY SHOP REMOVES A WHEEL FOR ANY REASON, MAKE SURE THE WHEEL IS HAND-TORQUED WITH A GOOD TORQUE WRENCH to factory specs, which vary from 76-80 Ft-lbs, generally. Overtorquing is common from the careless use of air guns [the best shops have equipment that will automatically limit torque on the guns, but too often these get out of spec and are not checked often enough].
Mine is a '99 with 46,000 miles. The tires still look almost new and I have none of the problems you described.
I guess if it's such a problem, you maybe ought to buy some different tires?
We just took delivery of an '02 V6 Accord for my wife. Everything seems fine except one. The hood is misaligned. After examining it closely, it appears that the problem is that the hood is sitting too far forward, so that it protrudes about 1/3 inch at the forward edge. And it is ever so slightly skewered to one side. The result it looks like it is slightly ajar. Are there adjustments that can be made at the hinges(and also the gas struts). I wouldn't think there would be zero play at the hinge bolts. There must be at least some wiggle room. And would you have to make corresponding adjustments to the hood latch mechanism? I haven't taken it back to the dealer yet, but I figured I should go there informed in case they try to give the "there is nothing we can do" line.
Also I've heard that there the fenders can be moved in or out slightly to compensate for imperfect gaping.
Thanks in advance for any advice you could offer.
My opinion on this subject is that Hondas are very sensitive and "things" need to be just right, otherwise you'll get this vibration. The "things" I mean are tire pressure, lug nut torque, wheel balancing, tire wear, and alignment.
With the Odyssey, the dealer had the vehicle 3 or 4 times and could not eliminate the vibration. We eventually traded it in on the Accord.
I plan on getting new tires for the CRV next week since they're kinda bald. I'll post again and let you guys know how the ride is. I plan on getting Goodyear Aquatread 3's. Anyone have any other thoughts?
I see your argument canadiancl. could be a valid point with tires wearing. Especially MXV4's, which are rather hard tires. The handling stinks with them.
isellhondas, Yes, i'm thinking of replacing tires. I truly dislike the Michelin MXV4 tires. I am considering better tires at 30K miles-softer more performance oriented tires as the MXV4's really don't have any outstanding qualities except tire wear.
For my purposes, they work fine. The car handles just fine (for me anyway) and these tires are wearing extremely well. They have at least half of the tread left at 46,000 miles.
No problem in the rain either and we get LOTS of that here in Seattle.
So...I guess I don't understand all of the adverse comments?
MXV4 Aquatread3
Price $116 $69
Dry traction 7.5 8.7
Wet traction 6.8 8.9
Wear 7.1 8.6
Treadwear rating 340 640
There were other categories where both tires were similar, but these are the ones that stood out. For my money, the Aquatread3 wins hands down.
SC
And if that treadwear number is for real, they must last forever!
Maybe I'll get some if my Michelins ever wear out!
Has anyone ever bought tires at Wal-Mart? They can order just about any tire. The prices are a bit lower, and for about $10 per tire for mount, balance, new valve stems, lifetime rotations, and lifetime road hazard.
"While traction and temperature resistance ratings are specific performance levels, the treadwear ratings are assigned by the manufacturers following field testing and are most accurate when comparing tires of the same brand."
Comparing treadwear ratings for different brands of tires is like comparing apples and oranges. Each manufacturer rates it's models of tires relative to a benchmark of it's own design, not to an industry standard wear value.
Check out comments on tire rack if you are in a tire buying mode. Also be very careful of buying the same tire from Wal-Mart/Sam's. These people are legendary in their approach to changing packaging configurations to make a few cents off the consumer. I have looked at their X-One knock off by Michelin-also compared the prices to those offered by a regional tire chain-Tires Plus-no difference. ALso in the past I have had problems getting tires balanced by Sam's-the tech barely let the tire spin up before stopping to put on weights. Went to a good local tire dealer-took the tire off-left the weights on and was it out of balance.
SO if you don't care what kind of noise, how poorly they hold in rain or snow-go buy some MXV4's. If you want performance-check out Michelin X-One's and there are probably 20 other tires just as good for the same or less money.
Yeah and don't let anybody with a impact wrench get near your lug nuts-even with torque sticks-take a click type torque wrench and watch the tech use it. Warped rotors are not fun-been there.
there's a weird sliding problem when going at highway speeds, starting to be noticable at 80mph, at 90mph it's very obvious.
it feels like the wheels are not tightened enough, so feels like the front wheels are moving horizontically, but without correction, it wouldn't really go off track, it's like the car is FLYING on the wheels without any connections and it moves around a little. it's really annoying.
anyone else with this problem? what could be the cause?
I guess it's kinda of like what I am experiencing.
ok, i juz thought of a way to describe it.
it's juz like the car is being pushed around horizontally by the wind, i swear to god i kept the steering wheel PERFECTLY FIRM, it juz can't travel in a straight line when going at 90mph. well, certainly there IS wind blowing hard, but i claim it as a problem because there is just too much force, the car weights 3,000 pounds, and my friend's 2,600 pounds 94 accord wouldn't move A BIT at 100MPH !
it just gets on my nerves cuz i go to school every morning on highway 4 where i can go beyond 100mph, it's juz like the car is pushed to the right, then to the left, then right, then left ........... one thing though, the steering wheel doesn't move at all, you can feel the pulling force through the steering wheel, but it literally doesn't move. although the car's already sliding to the left.
so now i think there's enough information for u guys to have a pic?
what could be the problem? should i take the car to the dealer? (my dealer never wanna fix my problems, they always tell me that there's nothing wrong, so if there's any other way to fix it, i'd love to know).
again, thx for ur help. appreciate it.
So I'm leaning towards the X-Ones from Wal-mart for $475 or the X-Radials at Sam's club for $420 but first I want to be sure they're the same tire.
I've posted on this subject before but haven't had a real good response. I've got the '98 EX V6 Accord Coupe with those MXV4's. I don't like them. I'll admit they are "OK" in that they do have good dry traction, passable wet traction, and do wear well. 'Kinda wish they would wear faster. My problem is performance. Higher speed turns create 'radial runout' where the tires actually fold over and create lots of noise. And reduce this car's ability to perform. I've also experienced Max's mini-sliding problem on the West Side Highway in NY. The ruts on that road are from lack of repaving after too much wear. But I think any tire will follow the wear pattern in a road like that. And oh yeah, they produce lots of road noise under normal driving conditions too.
I see that the X-Ones have a good rep, but when I go to 'tiretrack', searches always seem to put the Dunlop SP Sports A2's in the running too. On paper, this new tire seems to be very good. So,...my question is: has anyone had good results with this new (H rated) tire and how do they compare with X-Ones?