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You may have something there, I now have Firestone tires on, I changed some time ago because of the Dunlop tire price, there may be a thicker wall on these. I don't remember, were your rims okay or are they breaking up also. I was wondering about the tires if that may cure the problem also.
I forget where I read about those reinforced side walls on SP series... but I know it was a consideration for me when getting new tires.
I paid something like $104 per tire a couple of years ago (plus S&H).
Oh, and I run them 36PSI front, 34PSI rear - if you underinflate, tires will heat more and you could have them come off the rim a little (lose seal? - I'm not sure exactly, but you get the picture). I also adjust pressure once a quarter (just making sure it stays 36/34 with changing outside temperature - i.e. if you're running 36PSI in the summer at 90 degrees outside, it'll be 29PSI at 20F - rule of thumb: 10F ~ 1PSI). Hope this helps -
Tomek
I reported a few months ago that on my '01P the original tires were worn out and had to be replaced at 16000 miles. I am a very conservative driver and this is horrible tire milage. With that I crossed Michelin entirely off my list of replacement choices. As I NEVER drive in excess of 80 on the interstate I found running V rated tires to be rather absurd for my use.
The replacement tires I chose after weeks of research and studying the situation are 91H rated Goodyear Assurance Comfortred. I used a replacement size of P205-60R16 (same diameter) instead of the OEM size of P215-55R16 on the Michelin MXV4s that came on it. The GoodYears are very black with a very nice pattern on the sidewalls and look great on the car. They are far quieter and smoother on all the roads here in Florida, but on an emergency trip to northern Iowa in early December they did have a whine on some of those Illinois and Iowa roads that look like Florida roads do before the final blacktop is put down. I have seen no sacrifice in handling with the GoodYears and am very happy with this choice.
Like Tomekk I run them much harder than the door sticker calls for, 35 front and 33 rear (OEM 31 front 29 rear). I have the silver painted alloy wheels which have had no problem with any corrosion, but a very small paint crack appeared on one rear wheel which I had checked to make sure it was not the wheel. The chrome wheels were subject to either a TSB or recall, I don't recall which, years ago.
The week in that Iowa crud did corrode the finish on all 4 brake calipers much to my chagrin, but otherwise no problem with the road salt.
I have to wonder why any of you even consider replacement wheels from the Mazda dealer at their outrageous prices when you can get a full set of very nice chrome aftermarket wheels for far less than the price of one OEM.
My first set of Dunlops lasted 45K miles
>> why any of you even consider replacement wheels from the Mazda dealer
Right, I bought the tires from Tirerack at $104/per, dealer wanted something like $174 (installation not included) - unbelievable. Same thing with tires for my previous car, Passat GLX.
I don't have chrome wheels, they are painted (or polished) alloys. Chromes were - I think - only on the Millenium Edition Millenia.
Tomek
I'd say if you continue having problems it is most likely because of chromed rims and you might be better off replacing them with aftermarket wheel / tire combination.
Good luck -
Tomek
Side note: My Passat's manual recommended 40 PSI all around if you're traveling above 160kph (100mph) with full load for extended periods of time :-) but I've never tried it.
I haven't bought aftermarket wheels in years, but the only feature I see that I really like on the OEM wheels on my Millenia is that the balance weights do not show on the outside. I imagine there are aftermarket wheels that will do that too. You have nothing to fear from aftermarket wheels as long as you stay with good brand names such as American Racing. Probably any wheel from Tire Rack would be fine. Even Sears has some nice aftermarket wheels and they are frequently on sale cheap. But I'd take them to a good tire shop to have them installed instead of Sears.
If you have found something, I'd be very interested to know. Thanks
I had to remove a couple of posts.
Thanks.
My car overheated, and the heater hose leaked that was replaced. Would this even cause my heads to crack or warp? It would on any domestic vehicle.
If any body could help please could I have your input?
Thanks!
1. Miles Per Gallon: I have NEVER gotten more than MAYBE 23 MPG, I'm more like 20 MPG typically. I do a lot of city driving but I also do longer distances (being in austin, tx this is easy to do). i still never break 23-24 MPG. I think this is a load of bull and that mazda is falsely advertising 27 gallon on the highway.
2. Airbag light - my airbag light constantly flashes intermittently. mechanics can't seem to figure it out.
thanks.
My personal experience on long trips as well as being in a 5 hour traffic jam in Orlando as well as a two hour one in St Louis give these approximate results.
Flat out highway cruising gives about 27 mpg which includes mostly 80 mph all day driving on interstates. The parking lot speed traffic jams still yeilded about 20 mpg, which I thought was quite good for mostly going nowhere at about 5 to 10 mph. Overall my average is about 22 which is mostly local rural town and state highway driving in central Florida.
It appears to me that Mazda is not stretching the milage truth. All in all the milage on my 2001 MMP which has the 2.5L normally asperated engine, is about 5 mpg better than my wife's car which has a 2.4L straight 4 and is an American product. I like her '39 Ford looking hatch back just fine and it is very handy. But the MM is definitely superior to it in every way but cargo hauling.
It doesn't take a Mazda dealer to work on air bags. I'd suggest going to an auto electric shop where they actually have experts in electrical work.
1. Spark plug malfunction
2. High-tension lead malfunction
3. Fuel injector malfunction
4. Air suction in intake-air system (between dymanic chamber and cylinder head)
5. Inadequate engine compression due to engine internal malfunction.
6. Related connector or terminal malfunction
7. Related wiring harness malfunction
These are only possible causes.
In a couple of weeks I will be taking a short road trip and get back here to update the highway mpg's.
Just wondering how many people use a fuel injection cleaner in their vehicles?
Also, on the S you would have a whine from the supercharger, as well as on all automatic transmissions you may have a slight "turbo whine". Mine does and it is not a problem as it is a very faint sound that is easily covered by turning on the radio.
I do only city driving, in a climate with long cold winters, and short hot summers. In cold weather, I average 19 mpg and can get about 250 miles on a tankful before I start seeing the low gas warning light. In summer, the average goes up to 22 mpg, and I can squeeze out 300 miles or so on a tankful. I'm spending about $60 CDN to fill up with premium these days (about $1.15 Cdn/litre)
The mileage is lower than I was expecting with this car, but the ride is smooth and the power is there when I need it. Gotta take the good with the bad I guess..
light is still on price $400.00.Now I'Ve been told that the catalytic converter need replacing.I'm going to get a second opinion because goodyear states I need two front end converter.Does this sound like I'm getting rip off.
I'm considering a universal converter at a muffler shop which will be cheaper.Has anyone had this problem? And what is the solution.Need help
unfortunately under the hood is another problem..last yr with only 29k the transmission went and Mazda replaced it under warantee...I drove it for a week and felt something wasnt right so I brought it back and they stated the tranny was bad and they put another one in...This month I brought it in again b.c the airbag light kept blinking ( a problem which has been fixed 3 times already) and in the meantime they told me the tranny is bad again! dealer states that i got lucky that I can get it replaces since its still under a yr warentee but then goes on to say that the car is 250miles over the 12k mile limit for a tranny replacement!
it costs about 3500 for a new transmission!! how on earth can a car go through 4 transmissions with only 41k??? what to do what to do?? :confuse:
I just bought a 96 Millenia with the 2.5 l engine.
The car has seen better days, but I believe it's worth fixing up. At 150k and with a few, um, cosmetic challenges, it runs well and I got it for a beater price.
However, it needs four new ball joints in front and at least the left half shaft and maybe the right as well.
Some of this I am certainly going to have done; other items I will take care of myself.
My question to you: Can you please point me towards the resources available online? Any enthusiasts group, any person's web site would be most welcome.
Also, what about manuals? Haynes, Chilton? Is the factory manual worth it, and where does one get it?
Any and all hints will be most welcome.
Thanks in advance,
-Mathias
Regards,
regards,
Millenia Lover 06'
I will get back to the MPG's this weekend, but before I left on my trip city mileage was at 24.32 mpg's on my '02 S.
I would appreciate any advise i can get.
Thank you very much.
I have had similar type problems with my own car, especially and specifically the steering wheel tilt. Try pulling each fuse out and immediately replacing it. Don't, however, pull out the main 120 amp fuse - you must disconnect the battery and disconnect some wires for that one.
srust
Other (minor) problems: door lights sometimes come on for no reason at all (when doors closed). Runs down battery. Can't figure it out. Obviously, taping down the door switch is not a solution (because doors are closed when lights come on).
And, the rear door interior trim is not connected to the door. Is there an easy way to reattach to door? Looked for the pins but have not yet found them.
Beyond that, so far, this is a wonderful car. Bought with 125K, runs strong, looks good, and rides like the luxury car it was originally meant to be. (Correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding is that this was Mazda's aborted entry into the Lexus/Infinity/BMW category.)
thanks.
Rev McGinty
Joe G