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Comments
If I get the Nav Package, then I have to get either the Sport or Tech Package.
The turn off for me on the Sport Package is the 18 inch wheels, I don't mind bigger wheels, but It rains lots here in Oregon, and I might have to drive in snow, so I was thinking the 17inch wheels were a better option.
The Tech Package isn't screaming "buy me!" but it seems like the it has the options that works better for me.
I could be interpreting the differences incorrectly too.
Then there's also the 2010's that are rumored to have a better center console design and better Video Screen Display.
I may have to find a fax number for you.
If you could email it that would work too.
Exactly why I posted originally. It is hard to give pricing advice when having a vested interest. I've been buying cars for years at invoice +$100-125 or below invoice on many without any rebates/dealer cash. There are car dealers that advertise just about every car in their inventory for below invoice. CarMax, among many others, new car lots do it all the time. For example, a 2010 Maxima SV Factory invoice of $33,744 which they are selling for $32, 248. That's about $1500 below invoice on a 2010. There is a $750 customer rebate involved but how do you explain the other $746? I would guess they rely on making it up on trades. However, that price can be cash w/no trade. So I guess that's how they do it and they have been doing it this way for as long as you've been in the car business.
As for advertising, many dealers advertise loss leaders, to get customers to call or email in or come by - but we don't sell every vehicle at the ad price. We both know that. I don't know all the Nissan programs or what contest, certificates, etc. they may have going. But no one on here is posted they are buying cars for $3250 below invoice - so I don't see your point - this is an Infiniti G buying site.
I collect information about my competitors as much as give advice - one of the biggest things I've learned is many dealers charge "dealer fees" and huge "doc fees" which is just code for profit - we don't do that here (maybe we should start). If I am $500 over invoice and someone else is at invoice but has a $500 doc fee - are we not at the same price?
It is a ugly circle - dealers want to make money, some customers don't want to the dealers to make money - dealer finds ways to make money without customer realizing it....customer starts to hate dealer for being sneaky...dealer starts to hate customer for being cheap....that is why we choose to give upfront prices, give fair values for trade, give great rates, no dealer fees, reasonable doc fees ($143)...and that is why we sell more cars than all but 1 dealer in the NE last year - our prices may seem a couple of hundred higher at first, but once the whole deal is put together it is as good if not better and many people like that approach.
PS Obviously, I get paid to sell cars - my advice is free - take it or leave it. I'm on your side m6user - I really don't want to argue with you anymore. Have a good night.
I really wouldn't call this an argument but more a spirited discussion. Again, I appreciate the info you provide here. But your advice on pricing......I think I will accept your suggestion and leave it as I would have lost a lot of money over the years by taking it. Cheers.
...good choice.
But sometimes you need to leave some room for the dealers to profit. They are doing a business after all.
I've been researching hard for the past couple months on negotiating for a new car.
Depending on manufacture, I think if you can get a car at factory invoice (not dealer invoice) with no extra manufacture rebate or incentives. It's a good deal.
I don't feel safe to buy a car from dealers who are willing to sell the car far below my expected price for no good reason.
My concern was and is that when a car salesman drums up business on a forum such as this and states that his average sale is XXX above invoice and that people should pretty much accept that as the way it is...it bothers me. I just think if you are in the business you should shy away from giving pricing advice. How can you honestly advise people on how to get the very best deal when they might walk in your showroom the next day? If you were truly just being a nice guy and providing a service/advice why would you self identify.
I frequent several forums where there are "insiders" and to this day I have no idea what dealership they work for as they are very careful not to mention anything other than the state they work in. I've said my two cents and I'm sure many are glad that I'm done with my rant. Hopefully, it provided some food for thought on where to get your advice on car buying. I guess if people can read post after post of "amex card request" this wasn't so bad.
We got sideways because someone post "has anyone got a better deal than $2500 below invoice"? No one has posted that they have. I simply said that is a good deal and they should do it and if they are getting better than that beware of some tricks of the trade....how is this bad advice?
Your advice is what? Keep on shopping, call some neighboring states, you may save another couple of hundred but time is money to most people (you maybe retired and have all kind of time on your hands, seem to since your on multiple forums and don't seem to be in the market to buy or sell an Infiniti right now)...plus in the end will you really be saving anything - maybe, maybe not depends on all the other stuff. If you feel the price is competitive, you like everything else about the deal - you like the car and the people you are dealing with - then go for it - some people shop themselves to death and then say how they hate car shopping.
PS I get 2 to 3 emails a day (off the forum) helping people get AMEX hook ups, telling them where cars are located, helping with trade values - I don't think you should be prejudice vs car salesman - stereotyping me when you don't know me is uncool. Feel free to email me off line anytime.
My advice to anyone is to not take advice on what price to offer for a new car from a new car salesman. Is that such bad advice? Yes, time is money. I see that you are on several forums as well(all Infiniti no doubt) and have posted 200 times in less than four months which is more than I have posted in that time. Who has more time on their hands? Are you retired?
Yes, I stand convicted. I am a car buff and spend time researching different models and the prices paid in preparation for my next new car buy. I do visit many forums like I said but I do it out of interest only.
Of course this forum is for everyone(not just those looking to purchase soon) including people in the industry like yourself. Like I said several times now, I have appreciated the information you provide as I'm sure many here have. Telling people that dealerships will go out of business if they sell new cars below factory is just naive and untruthful. There are many dealerships around the country that sell cars at below invoice on a routine basis. Try Fitzmall or Carmax. They do it all the time. If you spent some time on other forums instead of just the ones you have a vested interest in, you may learn that there are many different sales strategies out there.
As this is no doubt getting boring for all concerned I'll sign off. I hope you stay on the forums as you are very helpful.......most of the time.
So, are you retired? Do you own stock in CarMax? Two simple questions.
Need your advise.I am at the end on my 2007 Infiniti lease.Considering release G37 2009 AWD Premium + sport. MSRP $40700.The dealer discounting the car to $39 000 minus $1000 for loyalty.Total $38000.With 0 down $ 470 + local county tax.39 month 10000 miles a year.Residual 56% at $ 22 600.
What you think ? May be closing a deal in the next few days.
Thanks for your help.Happy Hollydays to everybody.
Recap of mine that might help out some buyers
Cincinnati
G37x Blue Slate coupe with premium and cargo net
$4500 under invoice almost a month ago
Only $100 doc fees too
I think not many promotion code are still around. You should wait until next month for a better deal.
No, no stock in CarMax unless some is contained in a mutual fund or something. Just helped a daughter buy a car there. Does everyone have to have a vested interest in commenting here?
2010 Nissan Maxima SV 4D Sedan
Destination charges, dealer prep. $0
MSRP $38,830
Factory invoice $35,349
You save on MSRP $5,022
Maryland No-haggle price $33,808*^
* Price includes freight charge but excludes tax, tags and title fees and $99 dealer processing charge (not required by law).
The above is a copy and paste from their website. There's a $750 rebate....you do the math.
Email me offline for more information. (Have to find email yourself, not allowed to post it).
I didnt have to do any negotiation to get them to sell the car at factory invoice. (lease)
But I'm located in the northeast.
I understand that it's available for purchase.
What about lease? If I paid the tax up front?
My dealer wasn't sure about this so I'm looking for some adivses.
I'm located in NY.
Thanks
I'm not expert but my advise is get nothing but invoice deals at this time of the year for a 2009 model.
For your model with MSRP 40700, the factory invoice should be at somewhere around $37,400. I would ask for $37,400 minus the $1,000 loyalty cash.
Don't really know what you're talking about and I don't think you do either. What does NADA retail plus have to do with selling new vehicles? I made it obvious they don't haggle or negotiate prices. You pay what is posted. If you had looked at my copy and paste on the MaximaSV a couple of posts back you would see that they sell it for about $1500 under invoice which includes a $750 customer rebate. Just how do you think I want to buy?
If you looked at their website and looked at the prices they are selling Nissans at you would have seen they are all well under invoice. I consider that a great deal especially when you don't even have to negotiate at all.
Their used car prices are as you say NADA retail and in my opinion overpriced for this market so I would not buy a used car from them. However, we are talking about new cars here aren't we?
Congrats on the new car, but generally anything under invoice and your salesman is paid the same... a "mini". So next time feel free to nickle and dime.
thanks
As for dealer profits, I've read articles in the Chicago Tribune and the Wall Street Journal stating that profits from used cars, backshops, finance and insurance exceed the front end. Of course you don't have to take your car back to the dealer you bought it from for service. But guess what, the vast majority do and that's the numbers game.
And by the way I saw nothing on Truecar to indicate that there is any dealer cash available on the '10 Maxima. A check of Edmunds indicates there is no dealer cash available. This leads me to think that you make up stuff to prove your point or to disprove others.
You like Truecar it seems. They have a good article explaining just what I've just said. Go here, you may be enlightened.
http://blog.truecar.com/?p=1164
Infiniti Fan,
Littlejoe
the reason dealerships service cars is b/c they make profit. so i agree, it behooves any dealership to sell cars in hopes of ramping up additional profits from the service dept.
if, or through what department (sales,service, parts, financing) a dealer makes a profit is not my concern. My objective as a consumer is to get the best price. Like it or not, that is capitalism.
A while back, there was a used car dealer that regularly contributed on one of the forums here. I always felt the he lowballed all the numbers for trade-ins. Guys seemed to take his word as gospel and I'm sure many took less than they had to for their trades. He was one of those guys that makes us all distrust car dealers--you're not in that category.
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I don't wonder that. I think if someone is treated poorly they should walk. I don't get upset when a dealership asks for MSRP, ADM and a high doc. fee... it's business. Dealerships shouldn't get upset if someone grinds to the last penny, as long as it's done in a respectable nonhostile manner. No one is twisting anyones arm to either buy or sell.
Also, has anyone negotiated the VPP price? It looks like even if I paid the same with/without VPP, the dealer makes a heckuva lot more money off me with the VPP deal. Any way to get some of that money?